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Gear, Eco-Friendly Chemicals, and Common Beginner Mistakes?


dwrz

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I'm hoping to start processing my own B&W negatives soon. I guess I will probably still send them off for scanning for the time being-- it seems to be a pain if you want to scan entire rolls (comments/advice welcome though).

 

I have a few questions:

 

1. The kit I'm looking to start with is a Paterson Super System 4, and their 27.5 x 27.5 changing bag. Do I need things like a thermometer, film squeegee, funnel? One thing I am very confused on: graduates and beakers. How many do I need, and of what volume?

 

2. Is there an environmentally friendly developer? If so, how do the results compare to the ones that are more toxic? How about for the stop bath and fixer?

 

3. I've read through a lot of different guides and found them all helpful. One thing I would really like to know, though, is-- what are the common beginner mistakes? And how are they to be avoided?

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1. The kit I'm looking to start with is a Paterson Super System 4, and their 27.5 x 27.5 changing bag. Do I need things like a thermometer, film squeegee, funnel? One thing I am very confused on: graduates and beakers. How many do I need, and of what volume?

thermometer - essential

film suueegee - Ilford say use, lots of people will say no,... I use the film dries quicker...

funnel - dont need but handy

graduates - you need to be able to dilute dependent on the dev & fix you use. to the tank, i.e. 290mls in your case

clip to hang film, in non dusty environment, - without other squaddies... cliths peg for weight, to keep the film straight

file storage for negs

2. Is there an environmentally friendly developer? If so, how do the results compare to the ones that are more toxic? How about for the stop bath and fixer?

Rodinal is pain killer (an analogue) and drain cleaner, some of the othere are worse, you need to use washing up gloves, and rinse them after using the dev, some people are allergic... Rodinal is an edge dev, nice grain if you like grain... I use Rodinal all the time unless I have made exposure errors...

stop bath is water the Vinegar stop is only for print staining, loads of people gonna tell you different, rinse twice if you are worried about fix life

The used fixer is heavily contiminated with silver ok in UK soil drains, iffy in septic tanks or runoff.

3. I've read through a lot of different guides and found them all helpful. One thing I would really like to know, though, is-- what are the common beginner mistakes? And how are they to be avoided?

Not following instructions, not drying the dev reels, not keeping the solutions near to e.g. 20C, in hard water not doing a final rinse in distilled with liq detergent (washing up will do), flashing film, spilling used fix it stains wonderful... takig film our of a leica and trying to load in into a reel, you need to recognise it is curled like spring...

 

Noel

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1. Graduates -- I'm still not clear. I would need 3 of at least a 290 capacity? Anything else?

2. Clips to hang film -- can I use black binder clips?

3. Are there basically no eco friendly developers/fixers?

4. Drying the dev reels -- in between rolls?

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Unfortunately, I am still experimenting. I've only shot Delta (did not particularly like), Kodak T-Max and Tri-X so far, and I'm still waiting to get the Kodak films back from development. Would it be advisable for me to figure out which film I'm happiest with, first? I still want to try some of the other Ilfords, and the Fuji.

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2. Clips to hang film -- can I use black binder clips?

 

Yes, but the bottom one will need to be wwighted - and you'll need to be confident that the film won't slip out of the top one. Probably best to use 'proper' film clips.

 

 

3. Are there basically no eco friendly developers/fixers?

 

Xtol's pretty friendly, but the problems going to be the silver that finds its way into the fixer.

 

 

4. Drying the dev reels -- in between rolls?

 

If you are using the plastic Paterson reels yes - you can't load film if they're wet as the film sticks. Use a hairdryer to dry them if you're in a hurry?

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Tri-X so far, and I'm still waiting to get the Kodak films back from development.

 

I'd us Tri-x to begin with as it's pretty bullet proof regarding exposure and development. I found Delta and Tmax to be much less forgiving. The problem you'll have of course it that it's a bit bright at the moment for an ISO 400 film. I used Ilford FP4 as by 'good light' film - just my personal preference.

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1. Graduates -- I'm still not clear. I would need 3 of at least a 290 capacity? Anything else?

no a >300 ml beaker to dilute the developer to 1:50 then pour into tank

rinse & refill same beaker with water at 20C

pour diluted fixer (can be resued) from poly container

fill the beaker with water tempered to 20C pour into tank, repeat 10 times

you need a graduated 10ml real dinky

stick two markers on the beaker for 290 mls and whatever fixer quantity you need to decant out

If you buy distilled or deionised for final rinse, use the 5l poly for fixer.

2. Clips to hang film -- can I use black binder clips?

Plastic cloths pegs are ok, top and bottom, thread cord through top one hang in shower area.

3. Are there basically no eco friendly developers/fixers?

drain cleaner is echo friendly...

the silver in fixer is not

you can bottle the used fixer and take to recovery station as silver is valuable, it is rather toxic.

4. Drying the dev reels -- in between rolls?

yes they are sticky when wet, I always dry in warm airing cupboard for 24 hours, if you need faster buy a 2nd reel

Some people cannot load the patterson reels, never have problems myself. Coded message there...

 

Noel

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Unfortunately, I am still experimenting. I've only shot Delta (did not particularly like), Kodak T-Max and Tri-X so far, and I'm still waiting to get the Kodak films back from development. Would it be advisable for me to figure out which film I'm happiest with, first? I still want to try some of the other Ilfords, and the Fuji.

 

If I were you I would stay away from the T-grained films (like T-Max, Delta) at this stage as they require more careful exposure and developing. The bicubic grained ones (conventional ones like the Tri-X, HP5+) have more exposure latitude while shooting and more forgiving with the development errors. Stick to a universal formula to start with like the D-76 (cheap but well respected) and use it straight or 1:1 diluted, until you master the development process.

 

To care the environment, you would probably develop a pair of rolls a week; collect the used developer and hypo in a plastic container (maybe 2 liters a week) until you find out a way for their appropriate disposal around your area.

 

Washing water you can use as you like, no issue at all.

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Hi

 

If you want to use D-76 or ID-11 then you additionally need

 

jug larger then 1 litre

sealed bottle or poly container larger then 1 litre

face mask

goggles

apron

 

and might need a supply of anti histamine tablets afterwards,....

 

You have to be careful with the stock solution of D-76 as it can go off the Rodinal will keep for 25 years plus, I know, other people have kept it longer...

 

I'd be happy with Rodinal in septic tank not sure about D-76, some animals are intolerant of the Rodinal active ingredient, e.g. cats.

 

Noel

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Keep the cats away from the chemicals...not only in terms of potentially ingerting them, but also in terms of their knocking over the containers holding the chemicals. My cats have survived my half century of darkroom adventures by keeping them out of the area and locking up the stuff when I wasn't using it. Also, watch out for cat hair in your solutions.

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If you want to use D-76 or ID-11 then you additionally need

 

...face mask

goggles

apron

 

and might need a supply of anti histamine tablets afterwards,....

 

You must be unusually sensitive to something in the developer. I've never heard of anyone taking such extreme precautions before.

 

As a coda, I used Xtol for several years and never had any problems when mixing the developer, perhaps that's a better choice just to be safe.

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I have two cats at home-- are there any other things I should be concerned about?

Hi

 

Paracetamol, is deadly if you use it keep the tablets in med chest on box. Their livers cannot metaboloise it. Rodinal is an 'alkaline' form of Para...

 

Noel

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Is it true that the British use diluted malt vinegar for the stopping bath?

Have used clear wine vinegar as malt would be risky for stain (on prints), we use the malt on our french fries, and fish.

 

Noel

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You must be unusually sensitive to something in the developer. I've never heard of anyone taking such extreme precautions before.

 

As a coda, I used Xtol for several years and never had any problems when mixing the developer, perhaps that's a better choice just to be safe.

 

Hi Steve

 

No Ive never had a problem with dev, but I know some who has, he takes the antihistamine tablets, rather then using Rodinal, I need to speak to him.

 

I get bad excama anyway.

 

I use the PQ analogues rather then MQ... at need, e.g. when I need a soft working dev.

 

Noel

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