decay2000 Posted October 19, 2010 Share #1 Posted October 19, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hello, Here are some of the shots taken by M6 and Ilford ASA 400 HP5. I dont know how the Lab processed these scanned images. Do you have any ideas? Maybe the lab did something wrong with the developing? It seems that these images are too pushed... Following this wedding was another wedding and I did with the whole Ilford Delta 3200 and did 9 rolls of film and following recommendations, I have shipped those films to RPL (Richardphotolab.com) and they will have my films developed and FTP-ed for me to download when they are done... What films do you use for weddings? I think Neopan 1600 will cut it? Thank you so much for your kind helps... Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/134503-ask-what-film-do-you-use-for-weddings/?do=findComment&comment=1476754'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 19, 2010 Posted October 19, 2010 Hi decay2000, Take a look here [ASK] What film do you use for weddings?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Xmas Posted October 19, 2010 Share #2 Posted October 19, 2010 Hi It depends how familiar you are with your camera, and what the bride and you want. But for mono I'd have used Ilford XP2 and carried at least two cameras. Xp2 has the greatest dynamic range, and is easiest to print. Noel 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted October 19, 2010 Share #3 Posted October 19, 2010 Each to their own but I wouldn't use Neopan 1600 for a wedding! It's a great film with a 'gritty' texture to the grain, but not the most flattering look for wedding photos. I tend to prefer fine grain films, like FP4, but XP2 will give you a little more latitude as suggested. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth3kpl Posted October 19, 2010 Share #4 Posted October 19, 2010 I'm going to try Fuji 400H at a friends wedding next year. I've read it holds highlights well so should be good for the wedding dress (the most important thing if the bride is in the picture ). Some examples here I'll try some TriX for black and white. Pete 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted October 19, 2010 Share #5 Posted October 19, 2010 Neopan 1600 is very contrasty (unless developed very carefully) and in a high contrast setting such that shown above, will always give less than optimal results. Something like Tri-X will be much more forgiving. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StS Posted October 19, 2010 Share #6 Posted October 19, 2010 I had rather good experiences pushing Tmax400 to to 1600 and 3200 ASA recently. Actually I wonder, why Kodak sells the Tmax 3200, which I found to be disappointing in comparison. I can't show the 3200 results at the moment (will be available in November) but please find a 1600 ASA result attached. Stefan Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/134503-ask-what-film-do-you-use-for-weddings/?do=findComment&comment=1477065'>More sharing options...
ndjambrose Posted October 19, 2010 Share #7 Posted October 19, 2010 (edited) Advertisement (gone after registration) I use Tri-X across the board, at either 1250 in low light or box speed in daylight. The box speed I process in HC-110, and at 1250 in Diafine. The latter is particularly suited to the harsh contrast of weddings, since it's a two bath development process where highlight and shadows are each developed separately. It avoids the blown highlights you have in your samples, for example. Edited October 19, 2010 by ndjambrose 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
decay2000 Posted October 19, 2010 Author Share #8 Posted October 19, 2010 So mostly of wedding photographers use ASA 400 and is it fine for me to turn the ISO DIAL at the back of my M6 to ASA 1250 so that the metering will work when I push the film to 1250 when developing? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
decay2000 Posted October 20, 2010 Author Share #9 Posted October 20, 2010 I have ordered from eBay ilford XP2 as most of our friends here recommend... Thank you so much everybody... I just wonder what would my last Ilford Delta 3200 did for me... it is on the way to Richard Photo Lab in the States.... hope it all turn out well.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
decay2000 Posted October 20, 2010 Author Share #10 Posted October 20, 2010 Sorry I asked this again: Is that how you do push processing? Like when ASA 400 is loaded in my M6 but i turn the back ASA indicator to ASA 1600 and mark the film to Push Process at 1600 when developing right? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StS Posted October 20, 2010 Share #11 Posted October 20, 2010 Yes, a film for push-development will be exposed at the desired speed - if one needs a 400ASA film pushed to 1600ASA, it will be exposed at 1600ASA. The "lack" of exposure will be balanced by a stronger dose of development. The contrast will decrease and the grain will increase. If the development is done by a lab, they need to be aware of the desired speed. My advice would be to mark it on the film cartridge as well. If you develop the film yourself, you need to find the data sheet on the homepage of the manufacturer for the correct time and temperature. Slight pushing is done by increasing the development time, for more steps the temperature might need to be increased as well. One can also find the data in the massive chart: The Massive Dev Chart: B&W film development database However, for very strong pushing, the manufacturer's data sheet typically has more data. It should also contain information about recommendated agitation of the tank. My advice would be to check both. Stefan Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted October 20, 2010 Share #12 Posted October 20, 2010 ... The contrast will decrease and the grain will increase... I think when you develop more the contrast increases, so I'd not recommend pushing film for wedding shots? The C41 monochromes have much wider dynamic range and can tolerate a sunlight white dress, and still hold shadow details, this may give a scanner problems but wet printing is possible. Brides like white and detail in photos. Otherwise I'd use a soft working developer like D-23 or POTA, with a fast film conventional film like HP5+ to have as much dynamic range as possible, note I'm assuming you nail exposure spot on, I meter away from dress, with Weston and Invercone. I've not liked water bath or two bath with modern films. Noel Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riccis Posted October 20, 2010 Share #13 Posted October 20, 2010 I have completely moved to Kodak Tri-X (rated at box speed or pushed to 1600 and 3200) or Kodak TMZ (at box speed or 6400)... For color work, I am using the new Portra 400 and 800... You are going to love Richard Photo Lab, they are the best lab in the world. Cheers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KCS Posted October 20, 2010 Share #14 Posted October 20, 2010 Piling on with a few questions-- In massive dev chart I can only find timings for Tri-X rated at 320 (in FG7). I shoot box speed and then adjust in LR, but is there an easy way to estimate the timing adjustment for 400? Similarily, if I shoot 400 @ 1600, is there a standard amount of time to shorten the dev? Riccis, I've seen you recommend RPL several times-- do you find that they are consistent? I sent some color film there and it came back with so many dust spots that I couldn't recover the pictures. Needless to say I haven't sent anything to them since. Karen Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted October 20, 2010 Share #15 Posted October 20, 2010 Choose Tri-X 400 and the timings are there Tri-X at 400 in FG7 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KCS Posted October 21, 2010 Share #16 Posted October 21, 2010 Oh no, I've been let down by the iphone app version of massive dev chart.. Thx Andy. I'll use the Web. Karen Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted October 23, 2010 Share #17 Posted October 23, 2010 The iPhone version has the same information Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/134503-ask-what-film-do-you-use-for-weddings/?do=findComment&comment=1480288'>More sharing options...
think Posted October 24, 2010 Share #18 Posted October 24, 2010 Try some pushed HP5 and send it to these guys. If you're looking to scan for printing their process is fantastic. Check out the library of films and recommended ratings to choose the look you want. dr5 CHROME - Black and White slide - transparency process + THE ONLY AGFA SCALA PROCESSING WORLDWIDE Best of luck... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted October 24, 2010 Share #19 Posted October 24, 2010 Pushed film has empty shadows and is too contrasty. Remember, expose for shadows, develope for highlights. This NEVER changes. With insufficient exposure, dark areas like black tuxes have no detail. NO amount of extra development (pushing) will put it there. The amount or time in developer controls highlite density, ie brides dress. If you develope to long all the fine detail in the dress disappears and it turns into textureless detail lacking white. Develope too little, and you get a grey dress. There is no way you can produce quality wedding work with pushed fillm period. Learn to use some fill flash that does not over power the scene, perhaps bounced. Expose with a slowish shutter to pick up background, say 1/15, and the flash to expose the main subject. The flash will freeze the action. Overexposing film one stop and reducing development 20% will give beautiful shadows with detail and printable highlights. Tri x responds nicely to this. EI 200, D76 1:1 and 5.5 min at 68F or 20C. To shun flash completely and use high ISO, you need a pro level DSLR and the pics will still not be as flattering as I outline. Pro means top of the line, expensive. Practice ahead with fake wedding set to get the process under control. DO NOT EXPERIMENT ON A NON REPEATABLE EVENT. C41 films are fixed ISO , usually 400, and you need to use it there fore best results. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ndjambrose Posted October 25, 2010 Share #20 Posted October 25, 2010 (edited) Pushed film has empty shadows and is too contrasty...with insufficient exposure, dark areas like black tuxes have no detail. NO amount of extra development (pushing) will put it there...the amount or time in developer controls highlite density, ie brides dress....there is no way you can produce quality wedding work with pushed fillm period... One word. Diafine. I shoot pushed film at weddings all the time. The trick is to know the implications and how to process for them. Hence two bath development, rather than extended development. If you use Diafine (or similar two-bath metol based development) the results have excellent shadow and highlight definition, even up to three stops more than box speed. Blacks and whites are both detailed and highly usable, and the contrast curve is low to moderate. More information from Steven Schaub for anyone who wants to know about Diafine and the true EI of common film stock when developed this way. http://figitalrevolution.com/2008/05/19/exposure-index-ei-latitude-film/ Edited October 25, 2010 by ndjambrose Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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