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M2 or M3


andym911

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Okay, I also hate 'what should I buy threads' but this is my first so be gentle please.

 

Currently own lots of film cameras and mainly use M6, CL, F3 and occasionally the LTM when I'm feeling nostalgic.

 

Am currently lusting after a new M (meterless) and have read up on the M2 and M3.

 

I shoot 99% of the time with 35mm and 50mm , very occasionally 28mm.

 

the question is which model to buy....are there really any differences apart from frame lines?

 

 

thoughts and opinions are welcomed

 

best

andy

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try to get an M4, might be a bit more expensive but have some "more stabile" technicalities.

 

I have been using a 1968 one for 20 years now, went in for a ... is it CLA once just after I had got it and functions perfectly, up until today, and I still, despite digital, shoot a roll a month on average.

 

I think the m3 have this double trigger thing, which is a pain to use.

 

Right now if you want to get the real B/W leica thing I'd go for a series 0 barnack, the replicas which where introduced som 12 years ago, I have one, it's not only a gem to look at but produces really nice results with tri-x .....

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jan

 

thanks for the reply....0 Barnack is not what I am after, am looking for an M.

I shoot mainly B&W and use TriX along with Neopan and Delta.

 

The M4 just does not inspire me although I am sure it's a fine camera.

 

I have the M6 and M7 and CL but am looking for a fine mechanical, smooth small M to be used with separate Light Meter.

 

thanks again

andy

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...Am currently lusting after a new M (meterless) and have read up on the M2 and M3.

I shoot 99% of the time with 35mm and 50mm , very occasionally 28mm...

Depends on your favorite lens: 35 or 50. If it's 50, the M3 is for you. If it's 35, the M2 is a must.

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build quality same or similar?

 

You could use either to hammer in a nail.

 

People may say that the M3 was more expensive to manufacture, that the M2 was a cut down version of the M3, but in practice both are amazingly well engineered, and the brass gearing in both gives as silky a smooth film advance as it's possible to imagine - I migrated to an M6, but I'd be the first to admit that the feel of an M2/3 is something special.

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The M2 is logical, but if you really like the big frame finder of the M3 with the 50, then an accessory 35 viewfinder (Voigtländer is good) would be a solution for the times when you mount the 35 -- far less bulky than a goggled 35 (though I have a spare 2.8/35 Summaron).

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Do check out the M3, if that's what you are lusting after:

 

• Very early M3 cameras (1954--early 1955, before no.785891) do not have the frame preview lever.

 

• Until no 854001 (1957) the camera used the old speed sequence -- with 1/10, 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/200 -- and not the modern geometrical progression (1/8, 1/55, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250).

 

• The M3 had a double-stroke film wind until 1958 (no.915251).

 

In other words, the M3 was a piece of work in progress. The basis of modern M cameras is the M2. That of course lends a certain old world charm to the M3, if that is what you are after.

 

The old man from the Age of the M3

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If you want fast handling shooter for 35mm and 5cm then it is the M2. If it is dark and you are using a f/0.95, you may need a magnifier as well.

 

The M3 if you only use 5cm.

 

Both may need the quick load kit, and rewind assist, if you want slick handling like a M6 but the very early M3 should not use the rewind assist.

 

They are both smooooooooooooth, but need careful inspection, and may need a service, if the lubs is stiff/gummy.

 

Noel

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I use both M3 and M2.

I use M2 for the 35 and M3 for the 50 and 90.

 

 

But if I were you, and meterless is what you want, I'd take the battery out and stick with the M6.

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The frame counter wheel on the M2 doesn't get inadvertently knocked out of place, in my experience (and it only turns in one direction anyway), so I wouldn't worry about that. What does trouble the compulsive in me, though, is the fact the counter doesn't quite line up squarely with the pointer. Others cameras may not have this issue, or you may simply not care!

 

I trust you are aware of the different versions of the cameras: M3 single or double stroke; with or without preview lever; with or without depth of field markings. M2 is simpler -- with button or lever rewind; with or without selftimer.

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The frame counter wheel on the M2 doesn't get inadvertently knocked out of place, in my experience (and it only turns in one direction anyway), so I wouldn't worry about that. What does trouble the compulsive in me, though, is the fact the counter doesn't quite line up squarely with the pointer. Others cameras may not have this issue, or you may simply not care!

 

When I received my M2 the pointer lined up exactly. It then went off for a CLA and came back perfect, apart from the counter now being about a mm off! I would suggest something similar has happened to yours, there's probably tiny little cogs that it fits over and its just a cog out. No doubt an easy DIY fix but I'm not bothered by it though, I still know how many frames I've got left.

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