ptarmigan Posted September 11, 2009 Share #1 Posted September 11, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi In 2006 I bought a stunning used M6 Classic which unfortunately I had to sell in 2007 for around £600. It looked unused. I see prices of similar M6's have risen to around £800 here in the UK. Is that typical? I now have an M8 and also several OM film cameras (OM1, 2n, 3 and 4ti) and am keen to get a film M once again. It'll see limited use and I'm looking for another mint example, though this time it will be black. Two questions. What are the benefits/disadvantages of the M3 vs M6 and is there any variant of either I should avoid? Is there any 'practical' handling differences between the two (excluding the m6TTL of course). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted September 11, 2009 Posted September 11, 2009 Hi ptarmigan, Take a look here M3 or M6?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
bill Posted September 11, 2009 Share #2 Posted September 11, 2009 M2. With an M3 you have the issue of a "non-standard" viewfinder magnification which necessitates goggles or an external viewfinder for a 35mm. Look through the uncluttered viewfinder of an M2 - 35-50-90 - and you will never look back. The M6 can suffer from "Zinkfass" - bubbling and corrosion of the top-plate and other metal surfaces. Early models didn't have anti-rub inserts. Regards, Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted September 11, 2009 Share #3 Posted September 11, 2009 M3 has a separate take up spool doesnt it? And no light meter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
danmitch Posted September 11, 2009 Share #4 Posted September 11, 2009 My first 'M' was an M6 and I now use an M3. As previously mentioned while the M3 lacks a meter, in my opinion it has a better (best ever?) viewfinder if you intend to use 50 / 90 / 135 lenses (or prefer wider lenses with an external finder). If a 35 is your main focal length, I would not suggest the M3. You mentioned you wanted a black body this time, an original black M3 would be very rare. There are differences in film loading, but both are easy. Obviously some cosmetic differences too. Best - Dan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finnkare Posted September 11, 2009 Share #5 Posted September 11, 2009 If you don't use 28-35mm lenses and don't need inbuild light meter, there's no question - M3. Otherwise M6 might be more useful. M3 is better with long (50 mm and over) lenses and it has a self timer. Some also say that it's better built than the M6 (mechanics and rangefinder), but then again M6s are younger, so less in need for repair. Older M3s have to be "double wound", so that the movement of the wind crank is split in two. Some like it, some don't. Older M3s also have nearest focus a bit further, 90 cm (3 ft) or don't have a frameline selector (who needs it anyway?). You can find the variations in the internet. M3s also have an old school film rewind, it also divides people in two. There is also a "modernising" thing for it available. Instructions say that with the M3 the film should be cut further than in the factory, but some rebels don't do it at all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finnkare Posted September 11, 2009 Share #6 Posted September 11, 2009 HiIt'll see limited use and I'm looking for another mint example, though this time it will be black. You could then buy a cheap M3 and have it restored in, say, CRR Luton. They paint bodies and re-silver rangefinders for example. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted September 11, 2009 Share #7 Posted September 11, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) You can get a quick load kit for the early Ms - they come up regularly on eBay. I have one on my M2 but frankly it doesn't make a lot of difference. The M2/M3 style rewind is nice and positive - not a drawback. The M2 can be found with a self-timer too. All older cameras should be assumed to need a CLA at some point, so factor that into the price. Regards, Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted September 11, 2009 Share #8 Posted September 11, 2009 Cameras are like cars. Old ones need service no matter how well they were made originally and the 3 was better than the 6. Budget for CLA, and perhaps mirror resilvering/cementing and new shutter curtains. Rubber gets old and brittle. Frameliness are cleaner and more visable in 2,3,4, models. They were brought back to original quality after the M6. I have no problems with my M6 tops blistering from internal corrosion. Others have. The M6 has steel rather than brass transport gears which are stronger and last longer at some expense of winding smoothness. The smoothness was brought back with 7 and MP models. Some M6 needed light shield replacement, both of mine did. There were problems with some metering circuits. Mine are fine. In the end, you will probably spend the same. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptarmigan Posted September 11, 2009 Author Share #9 Posted September 11, 2009 Thanks for the insight. As it happens, I just shoot with a 35mm cron ASPH on the M8 and so not so keen on the M3 - I don't like the 'specs'. Also if black is so rare it will be expensive. Looks like it's an M6 then though the prices seem very high. Oh well, I'll be keeping an open eye for a mint M6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted September 11, 2009 Share #10 Posted September 11, 2009 Why buy a mint one? buy one that's been carefully used - the best thing for a camera is use, you won't pay a premium, and you won't be so precious about it (if you worry about such things). I use an M2 and agree with Bill. I bought it specifically because it has the uncluttered 35mm framelines as that's the lens I use mostly with it. It doesn't have the meter of the M6 though. Unless you buy from a retailer with a 6 or 12 month g'tee, or know that the camera has been serviced in the last few years, I would also allow for the price of a CLA whichever model you choose. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penzes Posted September 11, 2009 Share #11 Posted September 11, 2009 I love my M3. The camera got a complete overhaul at Solms and now I'm prepared to shoot with this beauty for the next 10 years. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
frko Posted September 11, 2009 Share #12 Posted September 11, 2009 I love my M3. The camera got a complete overhaul at Solms and now I'm prepared to shoot with this beauty for the next 10 years. It looks great! Do you mind telling how much did it cost? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penzes Posted September 11, 2009 Share #13 Posted September 11, 2009 The overhaul of the camera was a bit more than 450 EUR and the lens approximately 300. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenneth Posted September 11, 2009 Share #14 Posted September 11, 2009 Hi In 2006 I bought a stunning used M6 Classic which unfortunately I had to sell in 2007 for around £600. It looked unused. I see prices of similar M6's have risen to around £800 here in the UK. Is that typical? I now have an M8 and also several OM film cameras (OM1, 2n, 3 and 4ti) and am keen to get a film M once again. It'll see limited use and I'm looking for another mint example, though this time it will be black. Two questions. What are the benefits/disadvantages of the M3 vs M6 and is there any variant of either I should avoid? Is there any 'practical' handling differences between the two (excluding the m6TTL of course). I bought a fairly mint M6 in black about that time though not yours. My vote would be that you go for another of these great cameras. Unlike you I prefer chrome so is you get a good deal on a chrome one I have a lovely black M6 we could trade. I think the only reason for buying a ttl M6 is if flash is an important requirement to your photography. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
UliWer Posted September 11, 2009 Share #15 Posted September 11, 2009 Why "or" ? M3+M6 = ? M6 is essential; M3 gives the cream on top. Get both and you'll soon sum it up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richam Posted September 12, 2009 Share #16 Posted September 12, 2009 I prefer the old removable spool take-up for infrared film that needs to be loaded in complete darkness or in a changing bag. It's difficult to tell if you got the leader in the right spot in the "quick change" tulip take-up when you can't see it. The spool is easier to set up by feel only. A minor point, but something to think about if you are going to use IR film. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
batmobile Posted September 12, 2009 Share #17 Posted September 12, 2009 M6: Easier, quicker loading, meter, no prism worries. If you intend to shoot long lenses, look for a 0.85 model or consider a M3 if you absolutely must have the highest mag finder for 90mm lenses. I own a well used M3. It is smooth as butter in every respect, but so what? The M6 is the superior shooter IMO and integrates with my other metered Ms. It is smooth enough and does its job very well. I have the 0.85, which apart from some flare woes under certain lighting, is IMO a more practical camera. A really clean M3 is not likely to cost much less than a good M6, so what is gained? IMO the 0.72 M6 is the best value workhorse of them all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.