M8 and fireworks

[super7668]

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Vancouver fireworks show is on, since I have no experience about shooting fireworks and new to M8. I'm thinking about maybe using the 50/2 (the longest I have), with F8 and ISO 640, tripod and using maybe 1-2 s, EV +1/3 (really not sure about this). any suggestion?

 

Thanks for your input.

[fotografr]

You might also try some smaller apertures and longer exposures. Something like f/11 @ 10 sec., ISO 320.

[super7668]

Thanks.

 

I re-post it to M8 forum, please delete this one if necessary.

[dcoombs]

All depends on the effects you want. I did some fireworks shots recently that turned out fine using a 28mm, but I was only a few hundred meters from the site. My settings were 320 ISO, shutter speeds varied from 1/2 second to 3 seconds, and apertures of between f4 and f8. The settings are a function of how much spread you want on the firework "blossom" and how quickly they set the rockets off. It is very much hit and miss, so take lots of shots.

 

Good luck, Doug

[dcoombs]

Another thing, when they shoot off the big explosions the white-hot centers will be blown out no matter what your settings, so don't try to compensate for that. Leave the EV setting alone and no need to go to 640 ISO in my opinion.

[super7668]

You guys are very helpful, thanks.

[John Thawley]

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You guys are very helpful, thanks.

 

Whoa.... no need for the high ISO. Shoot at ISO 100 f/11 and try shutters between 4-8 seconds. Definitely mount on a tri-pod and use a cable release to trigger the camera.

 

If you can incorporate a landmark or something that will localize your shots, all the better. Depending on how close you get, what is in the foreground etc. a 28mm - 50mm should do nicely.

 

If you're shooting lose, don't be afraid to get some people or crowd in your foreground. Again, it adds to the interest and "happening" of the shot.

 

Here are some of mine for this year: thaw_7084.jpg - July 4th 2009 - Motorsports Photographer ~ John Thawley :: Photography of American Le Mans, Grand Am, SPEED World Challenge

 

EXIF Data is visible.

 

Unfortunately, due to family obligations, I wasn't able to move closer to the pier as I would have liked to and was fumbling around with a 24-105 zoom. Keep in mind, the further back you are, the longer you need for the "explosion" to blossom to a nice size. That's why you'll need to play with your shutter length. When you get that right, the light intensity is somewhat related to your distance anyway.... so f/11 should accommodate you regardless... since the rest of the scene is dark. Try a little up n' down. Shoot a lot.

 

PS... TAKE A FLASHLIGHT!!!!!!

 

Good luck.

 

JT

[SJP]

Fireworks are relatively bright so 1/30s, f/4, 160 ISO would be my starting point if you want to freeze the motion, maybe even 1/250 s. Takes a bit of trial and error but you can easily do fireworks handheld. Do not use auto-iso in this case as it will cause a whole pile of problems. The sky is dark but the fireworks are very bright and you want to keep the detail & color.

 

If you want more atmospheric "lightscapes" then 2s, f/8, 160 ISO (again guessing) & then a tripod is useful.

[krabat]

It really depends on how your fireworks images have to look like. For images "of the moment", I would try low ISO and then 1/30 s, at f2 or so. The trouble with long exposures is that the best results are achieved if you know in advance when a rocket will be launched in a way that it moves inside the "visual field" of your camera.

 

Best regards, Peter.

[selfdialogue]

Here's my July 4th fireworks photo. ISO 160, F/16, 24s exposure, using a tripod. I wasn't cautious about camera shake and could have done better to prevent the camera shake.

 

[super7668]

very helpful, I will try it next weekend!