Blurb Books

[Guest WPalank]

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So as I posted in another thread by BigLouis, I created and submitted my first Blurb Book using their Book Smart software to the company and finally received it last week (about a 7 day turnaround time). I created a Large Square Hardcover with Imagewrap cover with premium paper only because I attended one of their seminars given locally and received a promotional code for a free book (any size) as long as I completed it within 2 weeks of that date. My objective was to create a test book so I could evaluate their product start to end.

 

The problem I had was that it seemed one had to go to twenty different websites to learn about softproofing, sharpening and resizing for a custom book. Little if any of this information is provided on their forums. In fact, after doing a lot of research you have to go to some private guys website to download the HP 5000 profile, thought by many to be the most accurate profile for soft-proofing in Photoshop. About the only information that Blurb provides is that the images be submitted Jpeg, sRGB at 300 ppi. Again, information I found on somebody else's website was that you should save the Jpegs in Photoshop using the 9 quality setting otherwise Blurb will resize the images again for you. Also, the recommended output sharpening is "halftone 150 lpi (300 ppi)" using Pixel Genius PhotoKit sharpener (which I already have).

 

Well after checking out the book, things were pretty close, but not perfect. I was a little disappointed that individuals with darker skin tones printed significantly darker especially in shadows than my soft-proofed images. If anyone is interested, here is the book:

INDIA | By William J Palank | Category: Arts & Photography | Blurb

 

I want to state that this is in no way a promotion to sell the book as I feel it is way to expensive and some of the more important images were not quite good enough. My mission was to simply print a free test book for my eyes only. I feel my next one will be a small square softcover with images on both sides of the pages (more bang for the buck).

Also, as luck would have it, I applied for their Professional Service Membership called B3 where they have a private membership Forum and supply profiles for a different printer (evidently better quality printing) but was informed I was put on a wait list. The day my book arrived, I got an e-mail that I had been accepted to the B3 upgraded membership.

However, I haven't had time to go through all the website links they sent me to understand what it all means. I do know that the books cost a bit more to produce.

 

I must say that the images on pages 13 and 15 (hit "Preview Book") were right on the money as well as the sharpening using the halftone output sharpening on all the images. Also, the image on the cover which I had to uprez and used PhotoKit Creative Sharpener Grain 100, printed beautifully.

 

So here are the questions for those of you that have more experience with Blurb:

 

1) I created custom style pages, one for my landscape oriented images and one for the portrait orientation. The images I created in CS4 had a fixed pixel dimension for their orientation because I wanted all the resizing to happen in PS rather than the Blurb. However, when you drag and drop the images into the software it assumes you want to fill the whole square which it does for you thereby uprezing your image. Now when you hit the center button it drops the image in the center of the image custom placeholder creating the perfectly centered image which has just become downsized. So is blurb in effect resizing your image twice or on the second go around has the soft ware figured out the the pixel dimension on the longest side of the image place holder is the exact pixel dimension of the long side of your image?

 

2) Is the premium paper worth the extra money?

 

3) Is anyone else a member of B3 and have you utilized the service to create a book? If so, was the quality significantly better than the normal Blurb Book?

 

Sorry for the long post but I hoped to get some discussion started among people who have created books through Blurb and I'll bet there are many on the sidelines that have wanted to but had no idea as where to start.

 

[Note to Mods: I was hoping to keep the discussion here as it pertains to soft-proofing (or digital post processing) to get the best Photo Book result.]

Edited July 16, 2009 by WPalank
Addition

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[ericperlberg]

William,

 

Preface: I'm used to working in Quark and InDesign.

 

I've only made one Blurb book and I let Booksmart resize my images. I wanted to see how the totally lazy approach would work out. Not well I'm afraid. (I've made scores of books and magazines and brochures and labels etc using professional presses and I never got anything as disappointing as my first Blurb book.) I blame the poor quality of the images on booksmart's resizing algorithms.

 

An acquaintance of mine with years of pixel peeping into large format images and work in profi photo labs made a book and the images were very acceptable. I would have been quite content with his Blurb book. His technique was to get a readout of the pixel dimensions for the page in Booksmart by hovering the cursor above the page which gives you an info popup with the pixel dimensions. Then make a document in Photoshop with those dimensions with a transparent background (you don't want to make it white because computer white and paper white are definitely going to be different). Then on this photoshop page he sized his images somewhat smaller than page dimensions so there was a mat/mount like effect. Then save as an sRGB jpg and then importing that photoshop page into booksmart you don't get any of the auto resizing issues you mention.

 

I used the premium paper in my book. It's a decent paper (thicker and more opaque) and my colleague mentioned above felt it was nicer than the "standard" paper he used.

 

I've read in several places that the softcover books are produced on a different kind of printer than the hardbound books, the hardbound presses being superiour in quality.

 

Lastly I joined B3 but haven't yet made my first B3 book. The main advantage that I can see with B3 is related to the fact that Blurb farms the book producing work out to local printers when you use the standard process which means that when you re-order books they may or may not be run off on the same press. As you mention, either the HP profile or sRGB seem to work best in those conditions (my colleague used sRGB). On B3 you get a profile for a specific press and your work is always sent to that specific press. In theory this gives you a higher consistency from soft-proof to press and from print run to print run.

 

My mate who is very anal about these things didn't feel bothered by the standard method (which kind of surprised me because he complains about nearly everything). His books really looked good (ie as good as many photo books from small publishers and not far from competitive with books from Steidl and Nazraeli. So it can be done.

 

Eric

[Guest WPalank]

Eric,

 

Thanks so much for your review. Unfortunately, I have no working experience or knowledge with either Quark Express or InDesign, although I was fairly proficient with Aldus Pagemaker about two decades ago. I have read many success stories from people using ID and QE who create the entire pages in those programs and drop them in.

 

I found the layout grids in Book Smart to be less exact than what I would hope for. Is there a way to lay down rulers within the program? Even in programs like Apple Keynote you can place rulers and control the slides (pages) to the pixel. I found the way of detailing pixel dimensions as you mentioned (hovering the cursor) purely by accident.

 

Hopefully we'll here form someone that has actually created a book through B3 and through the standard route for comparison purposes.

 

Again, thanks for your excellent and detailed post.

Edited July 17, 2009 by WPalank
Spelling and additions

[plasticman]

I'm hoping for more information here - so I'll just bump this up to the top of the list again, and also William - I wonder if you have a set of bookmarks to all the resources that you painstakingly accumulated around the net? Posting a list of links here will probably save a lot of people a great deal of trouble.

 

Thanks - and great thread topic!

 

Mani

[ericperlberg]

William,

 

There are page guides in Photoshop if you use it to make your complete pages as I described above. I don't recall anything like guides in Booksmart though I haven't used the latest version which came out not long ago. When I did a similar workshop to the one you describe they told us for real control over how to make your book we should use Photoshop to do the layout and just export the finished pages to Booksmart

 

Agree that really useful information is hard to find and what little there is is buried in threads in remote places.

 

e

[Rolo]

I make and sell a lot of books and recently decided to use Blurb. My normal sources have been Your photoalbum SERVICE, make a real book! for large books and MyPublisher | Create your own Photo Book with MyPublisher and receive a published hardcover book! for smaller and cheaper books. I've also used Apple several times, but the quality was not what I wanted.

 

It's important for me to produce a double page spreads and Blurb doesn't have a template for this, nor any advice o how to do it, so I have to do a work around and only used their software for the final loading, remembering that Blurb will trim 1/4" off every side. (!!!!)

 

I used PhotoJunction for the design and PhotoShop for the final prep and sizing.

 

For the double page spreads, I split the design at the page break and added an extra 1/4" to each joining edge to avoid the loss of image at the binding. 3/8" might have been better, although viewers accept that content is lost at the binding. Edges are the most troublesome and due thought is required to make sure it all works. Basically design the book to provide some flexibility for their cropping.

 

I regard the Premium paper as essential for what I do and would not print on a lighter weight as the end product seems less professional.

 

The books come with a choice of dust jacket, or printed cover. I avoid dust jackets as they get creased and torn. Printed covers are best for my purpose, but one tip here, dark covers show scratch and grease marks more easily than light covers. For mine, I chose an image that would print near white and reduced the opacity of the image to around 35%.

 

My book printed well, although I did learn a few lessons. The finish was excellent, but the binding was very tight, preventing the book from laying flat when open and I would have preferred a slightly less matt finish to the pages to enhance the blacks.

 

Hope that helps.

[delander †]

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Does Blurb now accept pressready pdfs. That it the proper way to do it.

 

Jeff

[Guest WPalank]

William - I wonder if you have a set of bookmarks to all the resources that you painstakingly accumulated around the net? Posting a list of links here will probably save a lot of people a great deal of trouble.

Mani

 

Mani,

Here are a few of the most prevalent ones:

 

Link to download the HP 5000 icc profile (simply check the "I agree" box). Also, a nice PDF on creating Blurb Books:

Bonsai Photography - Home

 

Discussion on sharpening in Blurb from Luminous Landscapes Forum:

Luminous Landscape Forum > Best Photokit sharpener output settings for Blurb books?

 

Could not find the discussion on Jpeq quality setting. Just remember that if your file is above 2M, it will be brought down to size for you.

 

William,

 

There are page guides in Photoshop if you use it to make your complete pages as I described above. I don't recall anything like guides in Booksmart though I haven't used the latest version which came out not long ago. When I did a similar workshop to the one you describe they told us for real control over how to make your book we should use Photoshop to do the layout and just export the finished pages to Booksmart

e

 

Eric,

What Jpeg quality setting did you use or did you use PNG ? As you might know, they are currently taking PDF as of the middle of this month. A lot of people are complaining about jaggies in their text when to low of a quality setting is used or when the software downsizes for you.

 

Rolo,

Thank you for your time in complimenting the discussion. I found this tip page on Blurb which basically tells one to do what you are already doing:

Blurberati Blog Create a full-bleed spread across 2 pages

 

Make sure to read the comments at the bottom as they give some good avenues as well.

As I have previewed many of the books in the Bookstore (talent borrows... genius steals.), I would rather lose a slight bit of the image in the gutter or binding than have it reproduced on the adjacent page. It looks very funky to mine eye. Also Rolo, what is your take on the B3 program since you have done a lot of books and plan on producing more?

 

Does Blurb now accept pressready pdfs. That it the proper way to do it.

Jeff

 

Jeff,

As of this month, your wish is Blurb's command:

PDF To Book | Blurb

 

For those of you interested, here is the entry page into the B3 network. I haven't had time to delve into any of the information but may be able to this weekend. I couldn't post a link as it is password protected.

 

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

[Rolo]

"I would rather lose a slight bit of the image in the gutter or binding than have it reproduced on the adjacent page. It looks very funky to mine eye. Also Rolo, what is your take on the B3 program since you have done a lot of books and plan on producing more?"

 

 

William,

 

just to make sure we're on the same lines, here's a Grab from Bridge from one of my promotional books that shows two adjacent pages from a spread that shows the centre of the page and hopefully you can see here the 1/4" of land in black for the binding. I'd rather allow for it, than loose the content in the crease.

 

I didn't use the B3 programme, I don't think, as it was two months ago when I used it for the first time. My experience with Blurb is very limited.

[Guest WPalank]

Yes Rolo,

We are thinking the same.

I saw many examples in the Blurb store where the author over compensated. In other words, to use your example above, you would see the end of the shoulder on the kilt wearing gentleman on the right page and then the tip of the shoulder on the left page as well. Your sample shows exactly how I would try to achieve a two page spread as well.

[ericperlberg]

William, I didn't have any text in my book save the copyright page which I typed in booksmart. I saved my images as full strength jpgs but as said above, they were resized and who knows what else by Booksmart. But it was my error/laziness that was at the root of the problem.

 

One interesting question that the new "upload pdf" option brings is whether or not a book can now be made in Aperture and exported as a pdf. It's been ages since I tried out Aperture but as I remember it had fairly good page layout ability and could export finished books as pdfs.

 

For those interested here's Blurb's announcement:

 

You asked and we delivered — starting today you can design your book in the design tool of your choice and upload it as a PDF! Use our pre-made templates for Adobe® InDesign®, or use our guidelines and specifications for all of our book sizes and cover types to get started. Once your PDFs are ready, simply upload and order your book!

 

Some of you made your books in programs like InDesign® before, but had to convert all your pages and images to be uploaded into Blurb BookSmart®. With PDF to Book we've eliminated all the extra steps — now all you need to do is export to PDF and order!

 

Whether you use PDF to Book or BookSmart, you'll get all the same perks of making a book with Blurb. Our goal is to help you bring your stories to life, and we know that doesn't just end once your book is complete. We'll give you all you need to promote your book via website badges and announcements, and guide you through setting your own price to sell in our bookstore.

[biglouis]

Guys

 

I am working on my second Blurb book having been very pleased with the results in the first one.

 

I thought I'd describe my workflow in case it is of help.

 

1. I always resize my pictures in CS3 to the dimensions of the container I am placing them in.

 

2. I always soft-proof my pictures using the ICC profile for their printer, the HP Indigo Press 5000. My first prototype came back way too dark and it was only after I soft-proofed that I got the result I was looking for.

 

3. With the new book I am creating my own custom templates. My books are more like narratives with pictures, especially my second one which is part documentary part manual for schools and other interested parties. The supplied templates never have enough text space. I agree with Rolo that it is difficult to create two page spreads. You need to create two copies of the image and align them yourself with an approximately 5mm overlap. I got good results but (see below) I did need to prototype to get it right.

 

4. You can now upload and use your own print ready PDFs so quark, indesign etc users can create their own layouts and then supply them print ready. My only question here is how do you softproof?

 

The key thing about Blurb, as William has pointed out, is that you have to prototype. I printed 3 versions of my book at a total cost to me of GBP100 before I was happy. I thought that was an acceptable investment for what I hope is something that has a long sales cycle.

 

I had low expectations of a internet to print operation but I have to say that Blurb has more than exceeded them with one exception. I find the laminated soft-books separate and peel very easily and the cost of the hardcover 'imageprint' is disproportionately high.

 

Hope this helps

 

LouisB

[carylwithay]

I printed a book and was really happy with the reproductions. I knew they print dark, so I compensated by making them lighter but a bit more contrasty. Since I have the same problem with my printer, It was easy to get it just right. The prints came out really well. The book it at:

My San Francisco in Photos | By Caryl Ritter | Category: Fine Art Photography | Blurb

if you care to see it. I did it at the request of a Galley that show my work so they can sell it aong with my photos.

Caryl

This might work better: http://www.blurb.com/books/717710

Edited August 2, 2009 by carylwithay

[sjt1]

Guys

 

I thought I'd describe my workflow in case it is of help.

 

 

2. I always soft-proof my pictures using the ICC profile for their printer, the HP Indigo Press 5000. My first prototype came back way too dark and it was only after I soft-proofed that I got the result I was looking for.

 

LouisB

 

(snipped above)

 

All this has been a big help to me as I am trying to create a blurb book at the moment. Given the lead time of multiple iterations of proofing I hope I will reach the target of Christmas!

 

One question regarding proofing. I am using PS CS4 and I have the HP500 semimatte downloaded from the link above. What are your softproofing settings that gave you success? By this I mean rendering intent, black point compensation, simulate black ink and paper colour - all the options in the "custom proof condition". If you could tell me these, that would be a great help. For example, I notice when I switch "simulate black ink" on, the proof loses blacks, and this seems to go contrary to the trend in this thread that the printer prints too dark.

 

Thanks in advance. I must say it is quite fun to move the pictures about and get the order of the book flowing right!

[ericperlberg]

(snipped above)

 

All this has been a big help to me as I am trying to create a blurb book at the moment. Given the lead time of multiple iterations of proofing I hope I will reach the target of Christmas!

 

One question regarding proofing. I am using PS CS4 and I have the HP500 semimatte downloaded from the link above. What are your softproofing settings that gave you success? By this I mean rendering intent, black point compensation, simulate black ink and paper colour - all the options in the "custom proof condition". If you could tell me these, that would be a great help. For example, I notice when I switch "simulate black ink" on, the proof loses blacks, and this seems to go contrary to the trend in this thread that the printer prints too dark.

 

Thanks in advance. I must say it is quite fun to move the pictures about and get the order of the book flowing right!

 

For softproofing, here are the meanings for some of your options:

 

Rendering intent is the way that photoshop maps the colours in the source image colour gamut to the printer's colour gamut:

 

If the source image gamut of colours has colours (usually the saturated ones) which lie outside of the destination gamut of colours (because for example your camera can record a larger gamut of colours than your printer can print (the extent of which varies from printer to printer), then photoshop has to decide what to do with those out of gamut colours in the source image as it translates them for the printer to print.

 

Relative Colorimetric will produce more accurate colours for hues in both the source space and print space but may produce flat or dull colours for source space colours if they are out of gamut in your printer space. This happens because the Relative Colorimetric rendering intent maps the out of gamut hues in the source to the nearest in gamut colour in the destination and maps in-gamut source colours to their exact equivalent in the in gamut destination.

 

Alternatively, Perceptual Intent will preserve perception of those same saturated colours which Relative Colorimetric doesn't do well with at the expense of some accuracy throughout the image because its mapping technique is to subtly adjust all colours in the source gamut so that the destination gamut has the "feel" of the original. However, all colours are shifted to some extent.

 

Preserve RGB numbers

Don't use this, it basically disables the softproofing. Why is even there? Haven't figured that out yet.

 

Black Point Compensation

Adobe recommends you always leave this selected. I think that what happens here is that theoretical black (the absence of all colour) in the source is translated to printing black (the blackest black you can get using ink and then adjusts the whole source image so that it makes best use of the remaining gamut when translating source colours to destination colours

 

Simulate paper white and Black Ink

While the tools above actually affect the translation of source to destination colour gamuts, simulate paper white and black ink are only tools that affect your monitor's presentation of the softproof.

 

Normally photoshop will try to translate the white in an image's colour gamut to theoretical white but of course paper is not theoretical white but a some shade of "off-white". So simulate paper white tries to compensate the presentation of the white in the destination source colour gamut so that it is the "off-white" of your paper. If you're printing on a "white" paper, leave it off. If you're printing to a yellowish paper or relatively less white paper, you may find that ticking this option gives you a more accurate soft-proof.

 

Simulate Black Ink works the same (only affects the monitor, not the actual gamut translations) and as I understand it, it tries to simulate the black of black ink instead of theoretical black. The net result is that it lightens the shadows of your image as presented by your monitor (but not in the file itself which is handled by Black Point Compensation.

 

So these last two are only trying to show you the reduced gamut of real world paper v screen versions of the same image. Don't forget, the image on your monitor is projected light and the print is only reflected light. The monitor image will always have more punch than the printed image. These two tools take the punch out of the monitor image. Sometimes its useful, frequently it isn't.

 

Hope that's useful

Eric

[Rebeccintosh]

I've downloaded the HP profile you mentioned, and I'm getting ready to change all the color settings you mentioned in Photoshop, but what about the settings for InDesign and Illustrator? Should I change those to the same one's as Photoshop?

[Guest WPalank]

Blurb's layout program Booksmart 2.5 is now available for download.

Blurb BookSmart® | Blurb

[K I]

Anyone tried Couture Book?

 

KI

KI Photography Blog

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[johnbuckley]

In re: Blurb: Here's a shout out to Bill Parsons who managed to get through the whole process and make a great Leica M8 book using Blurb. Had no idea it was such a difficult/hit and miss process. JB

[piblondin]

There's a decent GroupOn on Blurb right now—$45 for $20: St John's Deals: Cheap Fun Things to Do in St John's | Groupon Deals

 

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