Which Olympus 4/3rds for my Leica R lenses

[rsolomon]

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Understadning very clearly that Leica is about lenses and not cameras i have decided to maintain and perhaps extend my investment in R lenses. i own a R9, Digilux 2 and Digilux3 - However, the bottom line is i still can't get want i want from Leica in a camera body. I want:

 

1. In camera stablization

2. 5 fps

3. better/cleaner performance at higher iso

 

So i am going with an Olympus 4/3rd's camera body and will take my leica glass... the 4/3rds 14-50, and the R24 f3.8, R50 f2.0, R80 f1.4, R135 f2.8, R180 f2.8, R250 f4.0

 

What Olympus body should i go with ? i want it to be rugged, weather resistant and have good erogomincs

 

 

Rich

[andit]

Hi Rich,

 

From what I understand the E3 is a really good camera - maybe not the newest in the range, but certainly one of the most capable.

 

Andreas

[ravduc]

The E3 will provide you with exactly what you are asking for. I have an E-3 and its built like a small tank, weather proof but a bit on the heavy side. You will be able with an adapter to use your R lenses and they will all be stabilized by the internal IS system. You just need to key in the focal lenght and all of your legacy lenses become stabilized. I use a lot of old legacy lenses with this camera (Meyer-Gorlitz, russian, etc) I have used an old Vivitar (Tokina made) 300mm with this camera (paid 35usd) and the Internal IS system turned this lens into a very cheap stabilized lens with and equivalent field of view to a 600mm 35mm lens. I am quite impressed with the quality. The viewfinder is very bright and is also the largest that you will find on any four third camera, and it shows 100% of the picture. Legacy lenses are easily focused with this camera. Picture quality is excellent and noise very low up to 800 iso. The price has gone down recently. It is still the best that Oly has to offer at the moment.

[rsolomon]

.....You just need to key in the focal lenght and all of your legacy lenses become stabilized.....

 

can you explain what this means -- do you key in something for each lens change or just once and then your set for multiple lenses ?

 

thanks again

 

rich

[ravduc]

You need to do this for each focal lenght. Legacy lenses do not communicate their focal lenghts to the camera (no electrical contacts). It is very simple and fast to do this. You simply press the IS button on the back of the camera and then the +|- button on top of the camera and then rotate the dial on the back of the camera to set focal lenght, click OK and your all set. It sounds longer than it actually takes. You do not need to do this with Olympus ZD lenses. If you are going to use the lens that came with the Digilux 3 (14-50 leica lens) you need to either use the E-3`s internal IS (it will adjust automatically with this lens as it does with the ZD lenses) by turning the OIS off on the lens; or use the OIS on the leica lens by turning off IS on the E-3 body (by pressing on the IS button and then dialing in OFF). You cannot use both IS's at the same time.

Legacy lenses can only be used in the Aperture Priority or Manual Modes ( just like with the Digilux 3). One more thing, when you dial in the focal lenght for legacy lenses, you do not dial in the equivalent field of view (300mm = 600 mm field of view (35mm conversion)). You dial in the actual focal lenght and the camera takes care of the rest. It works perfectly. Let me know if you have more questions.

[rsolomon]

thanks -- i think i got it -- one last question ... i would need to do this each time i put on a lens ... for example if i put on a 50 i do the process, then i put on a 80 i do the process, and if o put the 50 back on i do the process.... corrrect ?

 

i have had great results with the Digilux 3 - i really wanted a Digilux 4 but who knows what/if Leica will do. getting into the Oly bodies using R lenses seems like a good move, plus i have the Oly lenses to consider as well.

 

i want to maintain a leica system but i don't fit the leica market

[Bob Ross]

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thanks -- i think i got it -- one last question ... i would need to do this each time i put on a lens ... for example if i put on a 50 i do the process, then i put on a 80 i do the process, and if o put the 50 back on i do the process.... corrrect ?

 

i have had great results with the Digilux 3 - i really wanted a Digilux 4 but who knows what/if Leica will do. getting into the Oly bodies using R lenses seems like a good move, plus i have the Oly lenses to consider as well.

 

i want to maintain a leica system but i don't fit the leica market

Yes, you have to tell the camera each time that you change lenses. The "unless" here is if you have the camera on a tripod, where you should have the IS turned off. The camera doesn't need to know in that case.

Bob

[carstenw]

You could also look at the E-30, which is a bit newer, has 12MP, and a couple of other improvements, and many of the neat features of the E-3.

[rsolomon]

if interested -- here is an interesting website -- play with the simulation by picking a body and then a lens

 

Four Thirds | Products | The Professional voice

 

im not crazy about the look, buy saying i want a camera that looks good seems to be a bit off

[Bo_Lorentzen]

The E3 is a outstanding performer and almost indestructible. Highly recomended (i have not been able to destroy mine so far)

 

.

[ravduc]

Hello Rich,

 

You need to imput the information for each lens but it only takes a few seconds. It is extremely easy and it really turns every single legacy lens that you own, including lenses that were manufactured with M42 screw mounts in the early sixties and later, into modern stabilized manual focusing lenses.That is the reason why I bought this camera. I also have an E1 and E300 an D3, D2, but when it comes to using legacy lenses, especially teles, nothing beats this. You can buy adapters for the four thirds mount for a large number of lenses such as M42, OM, leica R, etc. Most of them are quite cheap on Ebay and work just fine.

 

Marc

[ryee3]

does the Oly4/3 for the Leica R lenses focus quickly enough for sports and action photos.

 

Do these bodies shoot at least 4 fps?

 

Is the viewfinder bright and easy to focus ie sports?

 

Thanks ryee3:)

[dwind]

I've a d-3 and really like it but so far have been reluctant to add any lenses primarily because of image stabilization. Is the 4/3 here to stay? Are there advantages to using it instead of a nikon d300? I'll keep the d700 FF regardless. Would it be smart to swap the d300 for an oly e-3 or e-300?

Thanks

Dennis

[Bob Ross]

does the Oly4/3 for the Leica R lenses focus quickly enough for sports and action photos.

 

Do these bodies shoot at least 4 fps?

 

Is the viewfinder bright and easy to focus ie sports?

 

Thanks ryee3:)

I wouldn't reccomend using manual focus lenses for fast action, unless you are experienced in doing so. Some action can be trap focused and with good anticipation, you can get the shot. Some of the R lenses have long throw focus action and aren't fast enoungh to track action.

Bob

[ravduc]

The biggest advantage to using the Olympus E-3 is the in camera image stabilization that works with every single lens that you can put your hands on and that will fit on the camera with an adapter. The lenses need to be manually closed down to aperture for the camera to meter in the stopped down mode. Most adapters will do that and if not the lenses will have an auto-manual switch (like the old M42 lenses) or a preset aperture feature. Metering works in either Manual or Aperture Priority mode.The viewfinder is excellent and focusing is not a problem. Using manual lenses for action shots is a matter of taste and skill. Photographers were doing in the 70's before the advent of auto focusing lenses. I don't use manual lenses for action photography. The camera will shoot more than four or five frames per second and the buffer and write speed is excellent.

[Riley]

Based on using MF legacy glass on a 4/3rds body the key attribute is that of the OVF, you need to be able to focus the thing or it isnt worth zip to you. I think you have 3 choices, E3, E30 and E620 (shortly) all have larger OVF than previous E4xx and E5xx series which are not suitable for MF.

 

E3 has the biggest finder, and I use a 1.2x Pentax mag finder on mine, taking it up to a little larger than 5D OVF size. Its a good combination and works well. I havent handled E30 or 620 so prefer not to comment on their slightly smaller OVF systems.

 

now to be completely indulgent, here are a series of frames using a cheap K mount Rikenon 135/2.8 (270mm EFL)on E3, beginning with the panning shots at F5.6 1/50th sec shutter, these vehicles are about 70ft away and are supposed to be making 60kmph. Exif is active but will show F1 for aperture as the lens doesnt have the electronics to feed back into the camera. IS is engaged on all these frames, the first 2 are mode 2, which is for panning.

F5.6 1/50th sec

3 consecutive frames shot single fame of this wheel at 1/20th sec shutter, all as sharp as this, so I post this one as an example, you can see the others if doubted or requested.

[Riley]

having tried the lens I took it to a recent vintage car meet

 

I think the Model T was F11 1/400 sec,

a very flat reproduction suitable for this processed B&W

Siddeley Sapphire hood ornament (Sphinx) 1/1600 F4, these last 2 lost the EXIF from the tiff conversion.b/se they will go to print

 

and please note: there are a few artefacts due to web conversion not present in the originals

 

IS and MF lenses works, but MF lenses themselves can be a bit hit and miss, some work out and some dont

I think your choices are E3, currently quite cheap as they are clearing stock, or 620 out soon,

so I guess my position is heavy but capable weapons grade E3 > or cheaper lighter 12Mp E620, for me its the former