SiMPLiFY Posted August 7, 2012 Share #61 Posted August 7, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) For people using a Leica Meter how do you translate ISO to ASA or DIN? I have that meter but it has confounded me. I have been using expositor app instead as it has ISO vs. ASA and DIN. I'd love to be able to understand and use my Leica Meter. Please explain how to translate ISO into ASA or DIN. Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted August 7, 2012 Posted August 7, 2012 Hi SiMPLiFY, Take a look here M2 users how do you meter ?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
SiMPLiFY Posted August 7, 2012 Share #62 Posted August 7, 2012 ps. Mine only goes to ASA 1000. Assuming ASA is directly translated to ISO (ASA 400 = ISO 400) How would you meter T-Max 3200 pushed to 6400? Just do the math in your head? I'm not very good at math. Sometimes when you're inside at night taking family snaps you need a really fast film to get the shot. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB_tx Posted August 7, 2012 Share #63 Posted August 7, 2012 A good review is at: Film speed - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia especially the table comparing films. You are right, an ISO 100 film equals ASA 100. (Some films carry both ISO ratings, like 100/21 - just use the first number as ASA.) I've never found the need for super-fast films, even though I shoot all available light, but fast-moving kids can give interesting results! I can usually use 1/30 shutter speed indoors, but use 1/15 & 1/8 at times with good results. We even used to shoot basketball games with 400 film, using panning and planning timing to keep the subject sharp. Keep the math simple. For 3200 ISO, set the meter to 800, and stop down 2 more stops. For 6400 stop down 3 stops compared to the meter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted August 7, 2012 Share #64 Posted August 7, 2012 It is an easy calculation to do, unless the action in front of you, or the changing light, is taking all your attention. So buy a small pocketable a meter that goes to 6400 ASA. Something like a Sekonic TwinMate L-208, it is tiny and doesn't consume batteries like a Gossen Digisix. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiMPLiFY Posted August 7, 2012 Share #65 Posted August 7, 2012 I need to get used to not having a meter and that is just going to take practice. I cut my teeth on an slr with m,a,s,p modes, a light meter and a place to set ISO. This is new territory for me and the most intimidating obstacle so far. Once I find a good way to get proper exposure I'll memorize it. Perfect Practice makes Perfect. I think I've been practicing incorrectly so I have some un-learning to do now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB_tx Posted August 8, 2012 Share #66 Posted August 8, 2012 One of the things to learn with an M2, especially shooting B&W film, is not to get lost in metering all the time. With the Leicameter - or a handheld - meter the scene or room before you begin shooting, set the lens and shutter speed, and don't worry about it for every shot. You'll learn to notice if the subject changes tone that needs a bit open or closed, but freedom from over-metering lets you just concentrate on content and timing each shot. My college years shot available light on un-metered cameras (1960s) with Tri-X, and we would just estimate and not worry about it. With practice, and a single film type, it works. Even today I shoot my M9 at ISO 160 nearly all the time, as removing the variability of ISO changes simplifies things. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scarlet Posted August 8, 2012 Share #67 Posted August 8, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) When I use my M4 or the TTL without batteries I use my fairly slow and often incorrect memory of the Expositor app's list of EVs. But I relate each EV to the aperture which is easier for me. It goes something like this. Hard shadows 16 Soft shadows 11 No shadows 8 Overcast 5.6 Very overcast/shade 4 Twilight/spot-lit 2.8 Darker twilight/spot-lit 2 Bright night out 1.4 Bright day in Night street shutter slower by 1 stop Indoors: -"- 2 stops - shady day - bright night Indoors: -"- 3 stops - average night - firelight Bright streetlight -"- 4 stops Indoors, candlelit Average street light -"- 5 stops Dim interior Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 18, 2012 Share #68 Posted August 18, 2012 When I use my M4 or the TTL without batteries I use my fairly slow and often incorrect memory of the Expositor app's list of EVs. But I relate each EV to the aperture which is easier for me. It goes something like this. Hard shadows 16 Soft shadows 11 No shadows 8 Overcast 5.6 Very overcast/shade 4 Twilight/spot-lit 2.8 Darker twilight/spot-lit 2 Bright night out 1.4 Bright day in Night street shutter slower by 1 stop Indoors: -"- 2 stops - shady day - bright night Indoors: -"- 3 stops - average night - firelight Bright streetlight -"- 4 stops Indoors, candlelit Average street light -"- 5 stops Dim interior You only use one exposure time and always film of the same ISO? Unless one shoots a minimum of 3-5 days per week, 3-5 hours per day, all year round, a Leicameter or a Voigty, or best a hand-held meter (also pointed at the back of your hand - but that's a different story) should not be left at home imo. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scarlet Posted August 18, 2012 Share #69 Posted August 18, 2012 You only use one exposure time and always film of the same ISO? Odd comment. Yes, I always have one and the same film in the camera at any given point in time (duh). I guess we all work differently in calculating the exposure. As i stated, this works for me. When i watch something that I might wish to photograph I think in apertures not EV. It's hardly rocket science to convert to various shutter speeds and apertures. The OPs question was about how people meter (on an M2, but that can be left aside). I answered that. I love my TTL because of the meter but i am equally able to work without a meter in most situations. Are we to understand that you use a handheld meter unless you shoot 3-5 days a week? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 18, 2012 Share #70 Posted August 18, 2012 Yes, mostly a built-in one. When not: a Leicameter, for some years replaced by the Voigtlaender model, or a hand-held Gossen. Aa far as I remember, EV includes the balance of f: and exposure time and (though it is not a variable in the work flow you mention, with one sort of film) ISO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdsheepdog Posted August 19, 2012 Share #71 Posted August 19, 2012 For people using a Leica Meter how do you translate ISO to ASA or DIN? I have that meter but it has confounded me. I have been using expositor app instead as it has ISO vs. ASA and DIN. I'd love to be able to understand and use my Leica Meter. Please explain how to translate ISO into ASA or DIN. Thanks. For what it is worth: ISO: International Standards Organisation. ASA: American Standards Association. DIN: Deutches Institut fur Normung (I made such a mess of trying to spell this I went and looked it up!) These are all simply organisations that set standards for almost everything, including of course the light sensitivity of film. Some more cynical than I might regard them as busybodies sticking their noses where they are not needed, but I would never say such a thing! The !SO standard gives both ASA and DIN. If you see two numbers given as ISO, the larger one will also be the ASA rating. The smaller will be the DIN rating, which is logarithmic. Simple, huh? The best conversion table (I think) is in Wikipedia, which also gives film brands and their speeds alongside the table. There are excellent iPhone light meter apps, I use a UK based one from "Nuwaste studios," free but you have to pay 99 cents to get rid of the ads. It is accurate, checked by my Gossen, but suffers from the general iPhone fault that it is hard to use in bright sunshine. The other posts here have a lot of good advice, you are starting down a road that gets easier and clearer with practise. The rewards are great, and worth the effort. Enjoy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
newtorf Posted August 19, 2012 Share #72 Posted August 19, 2012 I carry a handheld meter (Sekonic L-358) with my M4 everyday. In most scenarios, I use sunny 16, works remarkably accurate. Under certain situation (indoor/overcast/night) I use the l-358. I do not trust the built-in meter at all after several rolls from M6 are either severely over-exposed are under-exposed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted August 19, 2012 Share #73 Posted August 19, 2012 Sunny 16 most of the time and this free little app occasionally. Michael, this is exactly the method I use with my IIIg. Mostly, on a sunny day with 200ASA film I use 250sec and f11 and go from there. If, I get into some area that I want to get a better idea of the shadows and the highlights, I'll pull out the iPhone and use that app. I think it works pretty well and it is always with me. It alleviates the need to carry a bunch of stuff when I just want to keep it simple. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
becker Posted August 19, 2012 Share #74 Posted August 19, 2012 a hand held gossen digital meter, fine tool, if no meter ist on board I a take a film i know...... to handle works even good, in most cases;) The Metrawatt Meter I dislike its an antique plaything imho Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
zipper Posted August 22, 2013 Share #75 Posted August 22, 2013 Gossen Digi Flash, tiny, perfect with my M2 or SWC. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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