proenca Posted January 20, 2009 Share #1 Posted January 20, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi there, Been taking pictures for a few years but even when I started ( Canon T70 days ) , my cameras had light meter built in. I quickly learnt how to compensate but all my next SLRs and then DSLRs had lightmeters... Then one day I got into a store and played with a leica.. the beggining of the end : got a M6 , one year later a M7 and then another year later a MP. MP was a joy to use although was stolen. Insurance paid and since I was in Singapore, got a spanking new M8 which I have for the last two years or so. But I miss the MP. Can't afford one now.. but I was thinking about the M2. Would prefer it to the M3 since I would like the 35mm frame and I dont like the google thing. How do you M2 ( and M3 ) guys meter ? Gut ? Do you carry a meter all the time ? doesnt it seems tiring to meter the light every now and then ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 20, 2009 Posted January 20, 2009 Hi proenca, Take a look here M2 users how do you meter ?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
andybarton Posted January 20, 2009 Share #2 Posted January 20, 2009 When I use my M2, I now use a Leicameter atttached to the accessory shoe, but I also have a Weston Euromaster To be honest, the more you use one, the better you get at reading the light yourself. I usually check the light when I start out and then periodically while I am using the camera. My starting exposure is 1/125th at f8, with a 100 ASA film, and the Sunny 16 rule works well too. If you use reversal film, the latitude is great enough to cover any slight exposure errors. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted January 20, 2009 Share #3 Posted January 20, 2009 I used a clip on MR-4 meter with my M2. I also used a Euromaster meter from time to time. Can't day I ever found metering tiring, it was very simple with the MR-4, and you only need to meter if the light changes. With b&w or colour negative it may be worthhile extimating the light using the 'sunny 16' rule. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Lord Posted January 20, 2009 Share #4 Posted January 20, 2009 I used a Leicameter, but decided I prefer Sunny 16 and trial and error. 25 years ago I was able to set my FM2 manually with accuracy without reference to the on- board meter or Sunny 16, after a lot of practice - I hope to get to that level with the M2 (and MP) eventually. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bscott Posted January 20, 2009 Share #5 Posted January 20, 2009 Get a hand held light meter it makes life a lot easier. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wuddy Posted January 20, 2009 Share #6 Posted January 20, 2009 With my M2 I use a Gossen Variosix F2 to measure incident light. I find that this is much preciser than built in meters measuring reflected light. In practice it is enough to measure the light from time to time because it normally doesn't change that often. Outside you might take one reading for sunny and one for shadow areas. I actually got the M2 because it has no meter and I like it a lot. Best regards Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
russell c. greenberg Posted January 20, 2009 Share #7 Posted January 20, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) I use a Sekonic 308 meter, very small, lightweight, and accurate. I like it because I can use Incident or Reflected just by moving the small dome in place. The sunny f16 rule works for me also. Russell Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted January 20, 2009 Share #8 Posted January 20, 2009 Like others I use a handheld meter (a Minolta Autometer which I take incident readings from) or guesstimate/sunny 16 rule. If you are out and about you can take a reading, set your camera and then shoot. You only need to re-read if the light changes significantly. I will stop up/down as I go and with colour neg or B&W film you shouldn't have any problems. Personally, whilst TTL and auto metering are convenient, I find I think much more about the exposure using a hand held meter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
henkie Posted January 20, 2009 Share #9 Posted January 20, 2009 With my M3 : sunny 16, works great. Even with my M6, I use this rule (removed even the battery). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rik Posted January 20, 2009 Share #10 Posted January 20, 2009 another Sunny 16 'user'.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mamiya7 Posted January 20, 2009 Share #11 Posted January 20, 2009 the Leicameter MC is good. it is connected with the shutterdial!! And needs no Battery (please excuse my bad english) this will work fine too: Voigtlaender - Die offizielle Homepage - Belichtungsmesser Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! regards Søren Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! regards Søren ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/74678-m2-users-how-do-you-meter/?do=findComment&comment=784877'>More sharing options...
jc_braconi Posted January 20, 2009 Share #12 Posted January 20, 2009 The leicameter is coupled with the shutter dial, The VC II is astonishing by is accuracy I use it on LTM leicas and ever it is not coupled it is less volume occupying. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikFive Posted January 20, 2009 Share #13 Posted January 20, 2009 Gossen Digisix. Very nice and small. Dont have mine anymore, but will buy a new one this week. Always had it in my pocket. I use mostly 400 film and pretty good with my head with that speed, but use to long time when doing the same with other speeds. I dont like the Leica ones or having it attached to the top for that matter. Dont know why, but I guess its the extra bulk to the camera. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted January 20, 2009 Share #14 Posted January 20, 2009 I use judgment and experience in situations where I know pretty well what exposure will produce a good negative. When the situation causes me to be uncertain, I use a meter - in my case a Soligor spotmeter which I carry in a generous pocket in a light jacket. This produces very good negatives in B&W and colour negative. I use Zone System principles to assure that my exposure is placed properly on the exposure curve.This usually means putting the brightest part of the scene on Zone VIII. For Kodachrome, I meter every time the basic scene changes - there is little leeway with Kodachrome. I used to use a Leicameter (MC and MR), but both now no longer work, and I like my spotmeter so well that I am reluctant to invest in the repairs. They, however, worked very well indeed. Finding a working MC Leicameter is probably a challenge - it was a selenium cell and they are now very old. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mdb Posted January 20, 2009 Share #15 Posted January 20, 2009 I use a Voigtländer VC II light meter on my M2. It slides into the hot shoe is quite small and very accurate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest liesevolvo Posted January 20, 2009 Share #16 Posted January 20, 2009 Metrawatt 'Metrastar', lot like elder Gossens in function, but looks a lot better in my eyes in combination with a Leica. Metrawatt-company produced both the Leicameters for Leitz. Lenn Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizard Posted January 20, 2009 Share #17 Posted January 20, 2009 I use a Voigtländer VC II light meter on my M2. It slides into the hot shoe is quite small and very accurate. So do I, on my M3 that is. The measuring angle is almost identical to what the 90mm lines in the finder show, so semi-spot metering is possible. Great little device, and very intuitive operation. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZDavid Posted January 21, 2009 Share #18 Posted January 21, 2009 I second the Sekonic 308. Compact, fast, and accurate. Having a good guess first using the sunny 16 rule and fine tuning helps. You soon learn that there is no such thing as correct exposure; in fact it is impossible for all the light levels in the frame -- all you can hope for is the best exposure, which means the one you like the best. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
samuelphoto Posted January 21, 2009 Share #19 Posted January 21, 2009 Hi, consider a Gossen DigiSix. Small, light, accurate, easy to operate and cheap. Oh, and the battery lasts a very long time. Can't ask for much more! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhabedi Posted January 21, 2009 Share #20 Posted January 21, 2009 One more vote for the Digisix. I've been using several external meters with my M4-P and this is the one I like most (because of its size). I only "discovered" it last year due to someone mentioning it in this forum and I've been happily using it since. I even have it with me when I don't carry a camera so I can practise. I briefly used a Leicameter but didn't like it. It adds too much bulk to the M IMHO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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