andybarton Posted December 8, 2008 Share #21 Posted December 8, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) I am a big fan of Astia, as it definitely is more forgiving than Velvia 50 (and Kodachrome) in my experience. IMHO, it has the right balance of colour and tone, and it scans beautifully. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted December 8, 2008 Posted December 8, 2008 Hi andybarton, Take a look here Tips 4 Shooting Velvia Slide Film with M6. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
wizard Posted December 8, 2008 Share #22 Posted December 8, 2008 I have had very good results over the years in a wide variety of situations using Provia 100F. It is true though that this film tends to be blueish in some situations, so a skylight filter is advisable in the mountains etc. Provia is much more forgiving than Velvia 50, but less so than Astia (which, however, has somewhat less punch than Provia. You just can't have it all!). Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikau Posted December 8, 2008 Share #23 Posted December 8, 2008 I find Velvia wonderful for richly colored transparencies projected through my Pradovit Color 250 but a bit of a pain when scanning because of its high contrast and lack of shadow detail. If scanning is my goal, I use Provia 100F which my Coolscan 9000 handles well. Prior to the 9000 I had an early Microtek transparency scanner that gave best results from Astia. Like other posters, I was underwhelmed by Velvia 100F for any application! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyoung Posted December 8, 2008 Share #24 Posted December 8, 2008 Isnip Like other posters, I was underwhelmed by Velvia 100F for any application! Comes in handy for brightening up murky English November days! Gerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbaron Posted December 8, 2008 Share #25 Posted December 8, 2008 A tip that may help; the meter circle covers two-thirds of the height of the relevant frame. If forced to make quick exposures in difficult light I tend to aim the camera down a bit, which excludes the excessive highlights from influencing the meter. It's uncanny how such a simple meter can produce such reliable exposures. This was taken on Ektachrome VS and I just excluded the light bulb from the metering area. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/70592-tips-4-shooting-velvia-slide-film-with-m6/?do=findComment&comment=740947'>More sharing options...
Leitzmac Posted December 8, 2008 Share #26 Posted December 8, 2008 A tip that may help; the meter circle covers two-thirds of the height of the relevant frame. If forced to make quick exposures in difficult light I tend to aim the camera down a bit, which excludes the excessive highlights from influencing the meter. It's uncanny how such a simple meter can produce such reliable exposures. This was taken on Ektachrome VS and I just excluded the light bulb from the metering area. Absolutely, this is a good way of getting a better exposure and one I use regularly. Lovely shot redbaron too! The lad who posted the thread only wanted to know about using Velvia, now we've turned this into a bit of an 'I love Astia thread', my apologies to you ghulkhan! Perhaps I shouldn't have mentioned it in the first place, but it is a wonderful film. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghulkhan Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share #27 Posted December 9, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) A tip that may help; the meter circle covers two-thirds of the height of the relevant frame. If forced to make quick exposures in difficult light I tend to aim the camera down a bit, which excludes the excessive highlights from influencing the meter. It's uncanny how such a simple meter can produce such reliable exposures. This was taken on Ektachrome VS and I just excluded the light bulb from the metering area. Do you mean it covers the the top two thirds of the frame. So for example, if im using a 50mm lense, the top two thirds of the 50 frame would essentially be metered...forgive me if i sound really stupid Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghulkhan Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share #28 Posted December 9, 2008 Absolutely, this is a good way of getting a better exposure and one I use regularly. Lovely shot redbaron too! The lad who posted the thread only wanted to know about using Velvia, now we've turned this into a bit of an 'I love Astia thread', my apologies to you ghulkhan! Perhaps I shouldn't have mentioned it in the first place, but it is a wonderful film. I actually ended up buying a roll of Astia today. Well see how it goes. Any thing I should keep in mind for shooting Astia ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted December 9, 2008 Share #29 Posted December 9, 2008 Ghulkhan, if you go to this link Leica manual download teh pdf file and have a look at manual page 86 (pdf page 91) onwards there is a pretty good explanation. The M6 meter is probably a larger dot than the MP meter field though which is a 12mm or half film format height meter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBA Posted December 9, 2008 Share #30 Posted December 9, 2008 A tip that may help; the meter circle covers two-thirds of the height of the relevant frame. If forced to make quick exposures in difficult light I tend to aim the camera down a bit, which excludes the excessive highlights from influencing the meter. It's uncanny how such a simple meter can produce such reliable exposures. This was taken on Ektachrome VS and I just excluded the light bulb from the metering area. I do the same thing all the time too. The M6 meter is a masterpiece of intuitive simplicity. Meter off something that's an average value for the scene and shoot away. Sometimes I meter off my hand, tilting it toward or away from the light source depending on how I want to expose the scene. Since I shoot mostly people, I tend to want to expose for optimum skin tones. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted December 9, 2008 Share #31 Posted December 9, 2008 So it is bigger than the MP meter area? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbaron Posted December 9, 2008 Share #32 Posted December 9, 2008 Ghulkhan; No apologies necessary. No, the central potion is metered. The white dot on the shutter curtain reflects onto a meter. On my Vietnam pic the metered area is the white patch, which is 8 cm of the 12 cm height. But the yellow circle is the patch that I would have metered. It doesn't include any of the globe, whereas the centred patch might just catch a bit of flare. The yellow patch also includes a small portion of the darker shadows, which then get opened up a bit. BUT! This image is now full frame, as an SLR or 24 mm would see it. So you need to visualise a set of frame-lines on the image and then re-size the dots to suit. I hope that helps. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/70592-tips-4-shooting-velvia-slide-film-with-m6/?do=findComment&comment=741009'>More sharing options...
JBA Posted December 9, 2008 Share #33 Posted December 9, 2008 So it is bigger than the MP meter area? I own both and have not noticed even the slightest difference. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest darkstar2004 Posted December 10, 2008 Share #34 Posted December 10, 2008 I shoot alot of Velvia 50 and have found that even illumination is the key. Whether its full sunlight, window light indoors or indirect lighting outdoors, if your scene is uniformly illuminated, you will get a good image. Velvia 100 is a better choice for long exposures, but does not have the color palette that Velvia 50 does. 50 renders the pastels of flowers and sunsets much more nicely than 100 does IMHO. With 50, 3 seconds is the maximum long exposure you can use before you need to start adding in exposure compensation (and filtering, if you want the most accurate color). With Velvia 100, you do not have to compensate for exposure until you reach a 120 second exposure then you add 1/3EV. With 50, you need to add 1/3EV at 4 seconds along with a 5M filter, according to Fuji. If you have or can rent/borrow a Noctilux, shoot a roll of Velvia 50 thru that lens - the results you get are just beautiful! According to Fuji, here are the exposure compensation numbers: Velvia 50 4 sec. +1/3EV with 5M filter 8 sec. +1/2EV with 7.5M 16 sec. +2/3EV with 10M 32 sec. +1EV with 12.5M 64 sec. not recommended Velvia 100 1-60 sec. no compensation needed 2 min. +1/3EV 4 min. +1/2EV with 2.5M filter 8 min. +2/3EV with 2.5M Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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