wilfredo Posted October 9, 2008 Share #1 Posted October 9, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) Now that I'll be returning to film developing I'm wondering what some of the favorite techniques are for getting the developer down to 68 F? Also when fixing the film, I've always stuck to 5 minutes but according to the charts it can be 5-10 minutes. Why would I want to do more than 5 minutes? Cheers, Wilfredo Benitez-Rivera Photography PS It's been about 20 years since I developed my last roll of film. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 9, 2008 Posted October 9, 2008 Hi wilfredo, Take a look here 68 F. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
antistatic Posted October 9, 2008 Share #2 Posted October 9, 2008 I fix for 5 minutes with no probs. Can't imagine why 5 more minutes would help. My tap water comes out at 68 degrees. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Bernd Banken Posted October 9, 2008 Share #3 Posted October 9, 2008 Wilfredo, since 35 years, the temperature of developer and fixer plus water should be 20 Celsius or 68 Fahrenheit as I know. This is the international recommendation. In hot areas as sothern Europe or Texas:rolleyes: higher values are necessary but the dilution should be different plus time factor. So nothing wrong now in the beginning winter season..... Bernd Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilfredo Posted October 9, 2008 Author Share #4 Posted October 9, 2008 We've been having very warm weather here in Southern California and the tap water is around 78 Fahrenheit degrees this morning. I'm thinking I'll put the developer in the frige to cool it down a bit. Wilfredo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOOPY Posted October 9, 2008 Share #5 Posted October 9, 2008 Hi Wilfredo, Some month ago - during summer in Switzerland - I had the same problem and found this formula meaningful to calculate the necessary amount of the cold water. The nice german name for it is: "Richmannsche Mischungsregel"... BRGDs Sebastian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
joebt Posted October 9, 2008 Share #6 Posted October 9, 2008 We've been having very warm weather here in Southern California and the tap water is around 78 Fahrenheit degrees this morning. I'm thinking I'll put the developer in the frige to cool it down a bit. Wilfredo I use a tub that i fill with water and set the chemicals in the tub. I can add ice if needed to cool it down, or warm to hot water to heat it up. I also have a small coffee cup burner that I use to warm up developer when it is cold. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_d Posted October 9, 2008 Share #7 Posted October 9, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) Using the tub with ice as described above works good for me. The chemistry temperature will change more rapidly if you put it into a metal container as opposed to plastic. The metal conducts the heat much quicker. Keep an eye on the temperature as it changes or you will be heating it back up again. You can also dilute your developer with cold water but be sure you reduce the temperatures of your other chemicals or you could get reticulation of the emulsion. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootist Posted October 9, 2008 Share #8 Posted October 9, 2008 My home is always between 70 to 72 degress summer and winter, yeah I know BIG DEAL I pay for it. I just use all chemicals at whatever temp they are. If it's in the 72 range I shorten the time for the developer and just go for it with the rest. No big deal with B&W. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyoung Posted October 9, 2008 Share #9 Posted October 9, 2008 Now that I'll be returning to film developing I'm wondering what some of the favorite techniques are for getting the developer down to 68 F? Also when fixing the film, I've always stuck to 5 minutes but according to the charts it can be 5-10 minutes. Why would I want to do more than 5 minutes? Cheers, Wilfredo Benitez-Rivera Photography PS It's been about 20 years since I developed my last roll of film. No problem in the UK with 68 F, I can't remember EVER having to cool the dev down! Fixing time will depend on type, concentration and exhaustion of the fixer, generally its twice the clearing time. Gerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChadHahn Posted October 9, 2008 Share #10 Posted October 9, 2008 I put the mixed developer in the fridge with a thermometer in it until it reaches 68. Even though the stop bath (or water stop) and fixer aren't the same temp I don't have any problems. Chad Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vieri Posted October 9, 2008 Share #11 Posted October 9, 2008 Wilfredo, B&W development is very flexible when it comes to temperature. You just adjust your developing time accordingly; actually, most commercial developers offer timing for 20 C & 24 C (around 74-75 F) and tables that help you finding the right timing to compensate for water temperature. Dilution doesn't need to be adjusted. After a while, it becomes a second nature to guess how much you shall shorten or lengthen your developing time Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootist Posted October 9, 2008 Share #12 Posted October 9, 2008 Wilfredo, B&W development is very flexible when it comes to temperature. You just adjust your developing time accordingly; actually, most commercial developers offer timing for 20 C & 24 C (around 74-75 F) and tables that help you finding the right timing to compensate for water temperature. Dilution doesn't need to be adjusted. After a while, it becomes a second nature to guess how much you shall shorten or lengthen your developing time Right, what Vieri said. This is not rocket or nuclear science. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
boilerdoc Posted October 9, 2008 Share #13 Posted October 9, 2008 Anything between 65-75 is doable. The Massive Development Chart (Google it) will have the different times for you. As far as fixing, TMax films recommend 6 minutes fix. That is to help dissolve the pink anti-halation backing on the film. Longer wash time helps this as well. Bottom line is that fixing times are not critical as long as it's above a minimum and below 10 minutes. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan States Posted October 9, 2008 Share #14 Posted October 9, 2008 Wilfredo, what film/developer combination are you planning on? If you are going to develop at room temperature (which is best for predictability) I suggest going with a combo that allows for at least 5 minutes of development at your user temperature. Rodinal at 1/50 or 1/100 would be a great choice. The massive dev chart can be found here: Digitaltruth Photo With Rodinal I use a gallon of water that I keep at room temp for the solution. Best wishes Dan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilfredo Posted October 9, 2008 Author Share #15 Posted October 9, 2008 Wilfredo, B&W development is very flexible when it comes to temperature. You just adjust your developing time accordingly; actually, most commercial developers offer timing for 20 C & 24 C (around 74-75 F) and tables that help you finding the right timing to compensate for water temperature. Dilution doesn't need to be adjusted. After a while, it becomes a second nature to guess how much you shall shorten or lengthen your developing time Yes, I am aware of that, I've done lots of developing although its been a very long while. Back then I was on the East Coast and would cool my developer in my darkroom sink with tap water in a deep tray if I needed to. Dan, I have the tables for Kodak films but not for Fuji Neopan. I'll check out the Digital Truth link. Thanks, Wilfredo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Albertson Posted October 10, 2008 Share #16 Posted October 10, 2008 I'm in a cooler climate most of the time, but in the summer I don't try to force the chemistry down to 68F, I just use it at the ambient temperature and adjust the developing time per the time/temp chart for the film. I usually use Ilford HP5+, and the Ilford data sheet has a handy conversion chart. It's a good idea to keep all of the chemistry at a consistent temperature, as rapid fluctuations can stress the emulsion (though I've never actually seen that happen). Also, depending on the developer you're using, a higher temperature is OK---TMax developer was designed to give better results with TMax films when used at 75F. Don't know why, but it may have something to do with the viscosity (sp?) of the stock developer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leicar888 Posted October 11, 2008 Share #17 Posted October 11, 2008 Wilfredo, I live in Sherman Oaks, not far from you, and I buy and use Ralph's Supermarket's plastic Food and Bread Storage bags to store homemade bread and other items. It also provides the easiest method for reducing the temperature of your developer: Simply open one of the bags, put a few ice cubes in it, dunk the bag partially in the developer (in your graduate) while holding the top of the bag, wait a short while, take it out, and measure the new temperature of the developer. If it is not 68 but is still over that, put the bag back in for a few more seconds, and then take it out and check the temperature again. Keep doing this until you've reached 68 degrees. If you accidentally go overboard and the temp drops below 68, simply put the graduate in your microwave oven for 10-20 seconds to bring it back up to 68. This works for me every time! Terry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lotw Posted October 11, 2008 Share #18 Posted October 11, 2008 Most modern films, like Fuji Neopan, do very well in 24° C and shorter dev.times Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chiefey Posted October 11, 2008 Share #19 Posted October 11, 2008 You can also fill old film cannisters with water and freeze them. Use them as you would ice cubes to cool your chemicals down. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron110n Posted October 11, 2008 Share #20 Posted October 11, 2008 We've been having very warm weather here in Southern California and the tap water is around 78 Fahrenheit degrees this morning. I'm thinking I'll put the developer in the frige to cool it down a bit. Wilfredo Tricks from the 80's... I use film cannisters like two of them and fill it with distilled water, then freeze it. That will work like ice cubes to drop the developer temperature. Aw... the post above got ahead of me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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