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neopan rocks


andym911

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Well, my quest for Neopan has begun. The tones look great on my monitor.

 

On another note. I often read about highlights being blown out. Yesterday I was looking at some clouds and noticed that some of the highlights were completely blown out. I guess nature needs to adjust for exposure :-) Why are so many concerned about a natural phenomenon?

 

Cheers,

Wilfredo

Benitez-Rivera Photography

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bear in mind that an old lens like this will give more flare and so higher effective film speed. You might have to downrate by 1/2-1 stop to get a relatively soft tonal range with this film in a dev such as HC110 or D76 when using more contrasty optics. I just get full speed with contrasty modern MC optics using Xtol 1+something, but that dev gives 1/2 stop more speed than HC110.

 

Its a great film...no doubt about it.

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They all look flat to me. The blacks are not really black yet the whites are blown out (jacket).

 

This is getting to be almost like a poll from all the folks with calibrated monitors, the tones in all the photos look like what I'm most used to seeing in a fine art photo magazine.

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bear in mind that an old lens like this will give more flare and so higher effective film speed. You might have to downrate by 1/2-1 stop to get a relatively soft tonal range with this film in a dev such as HC110 or D76 when using more contrasty optics. I just get full speed with contrasty modern MC optics using Xtol 1+something, but that dev gives 1/2 stop more speed than HC110.

 

Its a great film...no doubt about it.

 

Interesting, many variables at play. So, would it be fair to say Neopan is intrinsically a relatively contrasty film? Seems that may be the case with the Neopan 1600 too, I'm shooting on post '80 lenses, except for two - a '77 and '59 so perhaps rating at 1000 when shooting and compensating in development may be the way forward? The older lenses are great for black and white work - one of the reasons I have as yet stayed away from the ASPH lenses, although it's all a matter of personal taste!

 

Andy: Perhaps it would be fair to pay tribute to the method and all components and say 'The results of this combination rock!' :D

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Guest maddoc2003jp

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Interesting, many variables at play. So, would it be fair to say Neopan is intrinsically a relatively contrasty film? Seems that may be the case with the Neopan 1600 too, I'm shooting on post '80 lenses, except for two - a '77 and '59 so perhaps rating at 1000 when shooting and compensating in development may be the way forward? The older lenses are great for black and white work - one of the reasons I have as yet stayed away from the ASPH lenses, although it's all a matter of personal taste!

 

Andy: Perhaps it would be fair to pay tribute to the method and all components and say 'The results of this combination rock!' :D

 

From my experience, yes it is a intrinsically contrasty film. The lenses I use mainly, are the 35mm Summilux pre-ASPH and the Noctilux, both not that contrasty and give very well balanced contrast when used with both, Neopan Presto 400 or Superpresto 1600.

 

Cheers,

 

Gabor

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Andy: Perhaps it would be fair to pay tribute to the method and all components and say 'The results of this combination rock!' :D

 

This I would agree on...Neopan is a contrasty film, used with older lower contrast lenses and then with HC seems to be a good combination...for sure it is not the film alone.

 

Good point, I never tried Neopan with newer lenses or indeed a different developer.

 

cheers

 

andy

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Great photos and forum article. I adore neopan so far. I have only used it over the past 6 months. cheaper than Ilford too. I have used only 100 and 400 asa. I dev in Tmax and scan on Epson V700. 100asa obviously gives a beautiful soft combo for me. See a simple shot here. I use 400 asa on medium format with similar results too. I do love Neopan and Tmax combo. I use a MP with a 35cron. Thanks for a great series of posts here;

regards

Matt

 

22_36ss.jpg

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Matt

 

very nice tones there....and a warm smile .

 

Glad you enjoy the thread..

 

.me too...great to talk about the craft, rather than just about gear.

Everyone has their preferred 'tools' including film and developer etc....but its the final look and 'fingerprint' that makes many images personal and valuable, the feeling that you really contributed to the final print is very rewarding IMO.

I like it when threads include photographs to demonstrate an opinion/experience...it makes them much more valuable.

cheers

 

andy

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Matt

 

very nice tones there....and a warm smile .

 

Glad you enjoy the thread..

 

.me too...great to talk about the craft, rather than just about gear.

Everyone has their preferred 'tools' including film and developer etc....but its the final look and 'fingerprint' that makes many images personal and valuable, the feeling that you really contributed to the final print is very rewarding IMO.

I like it when threads include photographs to demonstrate an opinion/experience...it makes them much more valuable.

cheers

 

andy

 

Thanks Andy.

 

yes I agree with you. there are so many factors at stake in achieving a lovely photograph. I have learnt so much from these forums.

 

best regards

Matt

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Dear all,

 

I have tried Fuji Neopan 400 as well as Across 100 and agree that both are capable of delivering excellent results.

 

I develop Neopan 400 in Tetenal Emofin, a 2-step developer. The combination delivers fine-grain results with little

chance of blown out highlights.

 

Across 100 I develop in D76 a combination that delivers super-fine grain and good mid-tones. My feeling is, however

that this film tends to beefit from spot-on metering, similar to the Tmax films. "Old-style" films such as Agfa 100 or

Kodak PanX, while being heavier on the grain seem to allow more room for error.

 

I have to admit that I also had some negative experience with Fuji as my last lot of 5 rolls of Fuji Across had what I

take to be a fabrication error: a thin line along the length of the film :eek: . I contacted Fuji on this matter, got a

dissatisfying answer the first time, and no answer when I contacted them again as the problem re-occurred ... :confused:

 

And when I visited the Fuji stand on the Photokina a few weeks ago, there was not even a film-representative present! :mad:

 

Kind regards, C.

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Christoph

 

sorry to hear about your scratched film issue..

 

I have some Tetenal somewhere that I actually never tried, may give it a whirl one day if my HC ever runs out:eek:

 

I just found one more shot from the original roll that I think gives the typical look of this HC-Neopan-Old lens combo..bit more contrasty but still ok IMO.

 

Andy

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Andy,

 

Thanks for the "condolances" I am still grieving for several pictures...

 

I like your latest shot: as you say, it's a nice film - developer - lens combination, but also and foremost a nice picture. It's a pity not to be able to easily see and "feel" a good print of this picture - so much information is lost on the screen.

 

A further thought, the combo works very well in the subdued light in the woods, and I am wondering how well this holds for other lighting conditions?

 

Best regards, C.

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  • 6 months later...

Great shots. Whoever said the tones are dull needs a new monitor.

 

Neopan 1600 is a great great fast film. I've shot quite a few rolls @ 1600, developed in XTOL 1+1 for 7.5 minutes @ 20 degrees. Beautiful tones, beautiful grain!

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Beautiful shots indeed. I've been shooting NP for a while and I love it, but never processed it myself until last week, so I suppose for the first time I had some control over the contrast factor.

 

These pics are Neopan 400 shot at 800 with an old Rolleiflex, developed in X-tol with standard agitation and times. I'm a beginner in the development-scaning process, but I think these show a little bit that NP doesn't have to be too contrasty every time.

 

APOLOGISES FOR THE PURISTS: Sorry I'm posting non-leica pics in a leica forum, but since we're talking NP I thought these could be useful. SORRY AGAIN!

 

J.

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  • 4 months later...

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