andym911 Posted May 6, 2008 Share #1 Posted May 6, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) I posted a few lines some time ago about Neopan and HC110. Recently I have been fine tuning this developer and believe to have arrived at a good exposure/dev relation that works both for neopan and TriX. One stop over exposure with pulling the dev time by 45 secs and 30 secs respectively gives nice smooth tones and good detail all round.(relative to reccommended times). Here a TriX example. Comments welcome. andy Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/52428-hc-110/?do=findComment&comment=552940'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted May 6, 2008 Posted May 6, 2008 Hi andym911, Take a look here hc 110. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Michael Hiles Posted May 6, 2008 Share #2 Posted May 6, 2008 Here a TriX example. Comments welcome. andy Great picture. The smooth tonal qualities supports what many have said over many years - Tri-X in HC110 is a winner. The trick is to get the exposure index right (4 stops under exposure has to produce about 0.1 density above the film base), then adjust the development time to get a tonal range to just hold details in the print at about 4 stops over exposure. You seem to have got there Andy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted May 7, 2008 Share #3 Posted May 7, 2008 Be very lens and lighting environment dependent. Yours in soft Euro light, well shaded, and the older lens? If I tried teh same I dont think I would get much of a result. Underdevelop probably helps a lot with the scanning too? Wonder how the wet print guys would treat it. Be interesting to see teh film technical curves with Michaels explanation, to get a hande on what is going on. Would be really interesting to have a data bank somewhere where people submitted just an image with all the development scanning details listed just to see what people get from what combination. Thanks for posting. Ive got a roll of Trix so Ill have to load a dozen cans and find some HC. Youve certainly got it very right by hte looks of it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym911 Posted May 7, 2008 Author Share #4 Posted May 7, 2008 Michael and Rob, thanks for the feedback. I agree that the results are indeed very dependant on lighting and contrast of the subject. For this above, to complete the details, I used an older Cron 40 on a CL camera. Scanning was with the Epson 4990 with no sharpening at 4800dpi. The PP was in Photoshop Elements for getting the dust off and then resizing and sharpening for web.Slight changes to the curve for a bit more contrast. Underdeveloping does seem to help scanning a lot and reduces grain. It has taken me aout 100 films to get here but now I am about satisfied:D best andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Johnston Posted May 7, 2008 Share #5 Posted May 7, 2008 very nice range of values, tones, texture, detail, in a nice portrait. which dilution of hc110 are you using? i usually rate or cut the recommended iso in half for b&w- 400 to 200, and then underdevelop by 10%... i go back and forth between tri-x and hp5+ rated at 200 developed in hc110 (1:63) that gives me results that usually work for my sensibility. of course i'm always trying different things in the quest for that perfect combo...but i keep coming back to the above. tomj Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym911 Posted May 7, 2008 Author Share #6 Posted May 7, 2008 Tom, thanks for the comments. I use dilution B which is 1:31 Standard time for TriX at this dilution is 3:30 at 20c.I use 3 minutes and rate the film at about 250-300. For Neopan same film rating but develop for 4:15-4:30 mins instead of the 5 minute recommended,also at dilution of 1:31. regards andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
junglehs Posted November 20, 2008 Share #7 Posted November 20, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) Awesome! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alw Posted November 20, 2008 Share #8 Posted November 20, 2008 I´m switching from Rodinal.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym911 Posted November 20, 2008 Author Share #9 Posted November 20, 2008 Wow..this thread is back from the dead:) I did the switch from Rodinal some time back and never looked back for my everyday snaps..I will try Rodinal again one day, but not just yet... cheers andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest maddoc2003jp Posted November 22, 2008 Share #10 Posted November 22, 2008 Andy, I am just about to prepare some rolls of Tri-X (from bulk ware) and give the HC-110 a next try (maybe with the Summaron 35/3.5 LTM ).Your photo is awesome ! Cheers, Gabor Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don'tknowmuch Posted November 23, 2008 Share #11 Posted November 23, 2008 I'm a Tri-X HC-110 man myself, but learning. Whatever the developing regime it naturally only hangs together if the actual exposures are consistent, and I think I find this the hardest thing. Not so difficult if you can get close to the action, but harder if there's a big contrast-range in the subject (landscapes for instance). I do bracket and that seems to work. However, what I was going to say was that if one develops with an eye to an easier/higher-quality scan is one compromising using the neg in a traditional darkroom? I'm building up quite a backlog of negs again now, and am fine-tuning with a flatbed scanner. Will these be hard to print in a wet process if I ever get round to it? Jim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alw Posted November 23, 2008 Share #12 Posted November 23, 2008 Regarding exposure, unless you´re working with rather static subjects and constant lightning, I find it nearly impossible to meter "correctly", especially with M6´s meter. Exposing 100ASA film at 80 or 400 at 320 is something of a luxury to me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted November 23, 2008 Share #13 Posted November 23, 2008 Just a word of warning about very short development times. ±10 seconds makes a huge difference if you are only developing for 3 minutes, less so if you are doing it for 7. I will try a different dilution for the HC110, to allow longer development times, when I get round to cracking open my bottle. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don'tknowmuch Posted November 23, 2008 Share #14 Posted November 23, 2008 I have started to use dil H (ensuring enough dev in there so went for 24ml European HC-110 to make 480ml total) in order to get the times up from anything around 3 mins for the reason mentioned above. I takes me to around 5m30s to 6m - still experimenting. Jim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alw Posted November 23, 2008 Share #15 Posted November 23, 2008 Can anybody tell me the differences between end results using the various dilutions? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym911 Posted November 23, 2008 Author Share #16 Posted November 23, 2008 Sure it is better to have manageable dev times above 5 minutes which gives more room for slight inconsistencies in temp/dilution/agitation etc. I stick with my short times as I have the process pretty controlled and it is repeatable.I haven't yet experimented with lower dilutions. Overall my understanding is (please not it is only my understanding and not fact) that if you use lower dilutions (eg 1:50 or 1:100) you will get different results.Now it depends on the developer as to what these differences are. In the case of HC you will get less grain but also lower contrast...I need to try it myself to see if this is the case. @Jim regarding suitability of negs that work well for scannin on darkroom use I really dont know to be frank...maybe someone else will chip in. andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest maddoc2003jp Posted November 25, 2008 Share #17 Posted November 25, 2008 I recently experimented a little with HC-110 at 1:50 dilution. This one was Neopan 400PR (rated at box speed), developed for 10 minutes with initial 30s agitation and then one inversion every minute: Cheers, Gabor Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alw Posted November 25, 2008 Share #18 Posted November 25, 2008 Looks good to me and there´s enough contrast too. I´ll start with 1:50. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym911 Posted November 25, 2008 Author Share #19 Posted November 25, 2008 yep....looks fine from what we can see.I will stick to what I know at the moment though with Dilution B.(don't fix whats not broken) I am however curious so will process half a roll at 1:50 and the other half at Dil B from the same film this weekend. I can then compare under same lighting conditions/camera/lens/subject etc...will post the outcome.. cheers andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alw Posted November 25, 2008 Share #20 Posted November 25, 2008 Looking forward to seeing the results! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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