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Those two, or other small flashes would be fine. If you think you might change to an M7 sometime try to find a Leica SF20, which works with TTL on the M7 also.

I also haven't used flash for years, but used to on my Pentax LX that also had TTL flash control. Since I added an M7 I picked up an SF20, and the auto works well on my M7, and non TTL on my M6.

Edited by TomB_tx
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I have a Leica CF flash shoe mount that was made for the Minilux Zoom and I use it with my MP. It is super easy to use. It has two modes, I usually pick mode 2 and it works for short distances at 1/50 when I am shooting street portraits. I usually use 100 or 400 ISO film and set the aperture to somewhere between f/5.6 and f/11 depending on the scene and lighting and it seems to always get great results.

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I own a Metz 32CT since 1985 and sure you can use it on the m9, camera in manual, flash in A-mode. Adjust the camera's shutter to its synch-speed, set the ISO from the camera on the flash, choose your aperture which should match one of the apertures indicated by one of three coloured lines on the back of the camera. The other end of the line indicates the max-distance the flash can illuminate at this setting and ISO.

Do this once and then just focus and shoot, the flash's sensor will adjust its output accordingly. The choice of synch-speed vs. aperture can be used to adjust the amount of flash vs. ambient light. If there is enough ambient light coming through i.e. an exposure close to the appropriate one without flash, the flash will just fill in. Close or open the aperture away from the value indicated by the coloured line, adjusting the shutter-speed in the opposite direction at the same time, and it will fill in more or less. 

 

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On 3/20/2025 at 3:56 PM, 2oioi966 said:

I am thinking of getting a flash for my M6 classic (not TTL). Nothing special, just a basic one I can use with a 35mm lens. 
Thanks for your recommendations. 

I’ve tried 3 auto flashes with my MP:

Godox IA32: This is my current favorite auto flash. It’s cheap and it works. I really like that it uses rechargeable AA batteries. I never use the swivel head feature, but it does work if you like to bounce off the ceiling. With film I find I need to overexpose this flash a bit. I set my MP and the flash to ISO 200 when I shoot Portra 400 indoors. I don’t know if it’s my copy or not, but this works well for me.

Leica SF20: bought 3 different copies off eBay. Two were broken in subtle ways. Like forgetting memory settings and light output was one to two stops off spec. Clearly these are showing their age. Also prices are very high for what it is.  This is my second favorite flash after the Godox. I’d like to buy a SF24, but prices are too high for me when I have the Godox.

Nikon SB30: Great little flash in theory, but it is too far over to the left and bumps into my forehead. It also gets in the way with the rewind crank on my MP. I’d avoid this one.

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I have to add that M-Leicas with their 1/50th of a second as fastest (!) synch-speed aren't especially flexible when you intend to fill in shaddows in bright daylight. For this purpose a camera with a faster synch-speed like Nikon FM2n works much better as you have more flexibility with the aperture to modulate depth of field. This may be one reason why the idea of integrating TTL-flash in M-cameras took so long and wasn't really embraced when implemented. 

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On 3/24/2025 at 8:28 AM, lazyhusky said:

If you are after something simple - the Lightpix Labs q20ii flash is a pretty good option.

Been using it on my M6 for several years and is pretty satisfied with it.

I'm not super technical but how do you manage the settings/power based on aperture / ISO?

I use an SB-30 and the back markings make it very easy to set the power so I'm usually a bit lost with film and flash.

Thanks! 

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For anyone using the Nikon SB-20, these are the steps for Auto Flash (not TTL) mode photography with a Leica, or any other non TTL manual camera:

  1. Set the camera shutter speed to flash sync
  2. Set the SB-20 flash ISO to the film speed (Ex. 800)
  3. Set the flash to A
  4. Supposing your subject is 20 feet away, you could use f16, f11, or f8 for auto flash exposure (at ISO 800 for example.)
  5. The white bars show distance range auto flash exposure works for each f-stop at the 20 feet (example distance)
  6. Choose the f-stop you want on your lens
  7. Take the photo.
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Flash and Camera should be set to the same ASA/ aperture. In A- Mode the flash controls the intensity of light through a photocell. Works pretty well. 

I use a Metz 32 CT3 for years also on digital cameras with great results. 

And with a x-sync cable even with Minox and old 6x9 folding cameras. No problems so far.

 

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On 3/26/2025 at 3:46 PM, intangiblethings said:

I'm not super technical but how do you manage the settings/power based on aperture / ISO?

I use an SB-30 and the back markings make it very easy to set the power so I'm usually a bit lost with film and flash.

Thanks! 

I'm not very good at explaining the process, I'll try and perhaps someone better can correct me.

You start by figuring out your flash's GuideNumber - in the case of the lightpixlab it was 20GN.

When you shoot, the things for you to consider are the distance of your subject and the aperture you want to use. This will determine the flash power to use.

Try using this calculator as a starting point:

https://www.scantips.com/lights/flashbasics1c.html

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I use the Godox Lux Junior Retro Camera Flash when I want a small, low, but low output flash for fill flash.  It allows for manual power adjustment and a simple auto setting which function like the pre-TTL automatic flashes.  I wanted something small that didn’t ruin the small size of my camera.

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