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M3 or M4 for film shooter?


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I've found that shooting the M8 has got me back to wanting to shoot film in an M body. I've got IIIG reworked by Sherry K. But I'm wanting to also use and M-Body. I had an M3 which I sold in graduate school (foolish me).

 

I'm now torn between the M4 or the M3. In many ways the M3 is classic but the improvements of the M4 are attractive. I've also been told to look for an M3 with a serial number over 1,000,xxx.

 

Pro/Cons, suggestions observations?

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Go for the M3 only if you are a normal/tele lenses user. Find a good Single Stroke body with a good VF and contrasty RF patch. Even if it was the best viewfinder/rangefinder at its time, now most of them have undergone cement decoloration or prism separation, or fungi/humidity attack, etc. Compare it against your M8 finder to evaluate its condition.

 

Choose instead an M2 or an M4 if you tend to a wider world vision. The same caveats as with the M3 VF apply especially in the case of the M2, obviously.

 

Or be practical and buy a chrome classic or TTL M6 (cheaper in great condition than a mint M3 SS or a mint M4, built in lightmeter, finder up to 28mm wide, less years of use and abuse, etc etc)

 

 

Ed

(Who admits he could never stand using an M3)

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John, I've had both. However, I now use an M3 for my film shooter and the principle reason is that I only shoot a 50 cron for film. Absolutely nothing beats the M3 viewfinder and rangefinder patch. While the M4 loads and rewinds faster, the M3 loads more positively. When I switch back and forth between my M8 and M3, the M3 always brings a grin to my face when I pull that viewfinder to my right eye.

Either one can be appreciated by an accomplished photographer.

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I got one custom made. An M2 with M6 loading and meter. Don't ask the cost. But it was done by one the best in the business

 

Sparkie, I'll not ask for the price, actually I'm not even interested in hear it... LOL

BUT, did he replace the complete VF/RF assembly to include the M6 lightmeter, or did they just 'grafted' it inside the optical path of the VF?

 

cheers

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Ed, the M6 VF & lightmeter was used, the 24 & 75 framelines were masked. The camera was modified to work with a vintage Leicavit MP winder also. Don did a terrific job. There were a series of other modifications which overall was not easy to do. But Don can pretty much do anything he sets out to do, with of course with a little persuasion :D

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I've found that shooting the M8 has got me back to wanting to shoot film in an M body. I've got IIIG reworked by Sherry K. But I'm wanting to also use and M-Body. I had an M3 which I sold in graduate school (foolish me).

 

I'm now torn between the M4 or the M3. In many ways the M3 is classic but the improvements of the M4 are attractive. I've also been told to look for an M3 with a serial number over 1,000,xxx.

 

Pro/Cons, suggestions observations?

 

Take the last analogue M, the MP !

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Ed, the M6 VF & lightmeter was used, the 24 & 75 framelines were masked. The camera was modified to work with a vintage Leicavit MP winder also. Don did a terrific job. There were a series of other modifications which overall was not easy to do. But Don can pretty much do anything he sets out to do, with of course with a little persuasion :D

 

Thank you Sparkie... somehow I thought it was Don... And it opens a whole new world of camera mods, at least in the mind. I will try to 'convince' the local Don's equivalent (sort of)

 

best,

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Even the last-made M3 and M2 cameras are now close to forty years old. The best propositions for a meterless film M camera are the M4-2 or M4-P. These two were also the smoothest and best made M cameras ever. But go for an early M4-P to avoid the egregious zinc top from Solms.

 

M6-TTL cameras in good shape are also to be had nowadays at (for Leica gear) reasonable prices, but the top plate is still zinc ...

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Think REALLY at HOW MUCH and HOW you plan to USE it: I mean, if you plan a light use, and like to have a classic, go for M3. But if you plan to have a frequent and hard use, better to stay away from "too fine - too classic"... a sign/scratch on a fine M3 body is a pain... go for M4 2 or M4 P (an item for use is rather cheap), or even M6 if you consider metering a significant addon.

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