M11-P advice for achieving the best colour accuracy

[CDodkin]

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4 Step Process using X-Rite Color Passport and a Color Spyder

1. Capture a ref Image:

Proper Lighting: Shoot the ColorChecker Passport under the lighting conditions you'll be shooting your photos in. 
Camera Settings: Use a tripod to ensure sharp focus. Shoot in RAW (DNG) format to capture the most image data on your M11.
Exposure: Aim for a neutral exposure. Over or underexposure can negatively impact the profile. Use your hand-held meter to meter the correct exposure.

2. Use X-Rite ColorChecker Passport Software:

Install: Install the X-Rite ColorChecker Passport software on your computer. Launch the software.
Import the M11 DNG: Drag and drop the M11 DNG file of your ColorChecker Passport image into the software.   
Create Profile: Click the "Create Profile" button. The software will analyze the image and generate a custom DNG profile.  For C1 you'll need to save as a custom ICC profile, as C1 does not use DNG profiles.

 
3. Apply the Profile:

Adobe Lightroom:
Go to the "Camera Calibration" panel.
Select the newly created profile from the "Profile" dropdown menu.
 

Adobe Photoshop:
Open the image in Camera Raw.
Go to the "Camera Calibration" panel.
Select the newly created profile from the "Profile" dropdown menu.   
 

CaptureOne:

I believe you're using C1 - follow the instructions in this video to import the custom ICC profile into C1.

 

 

Using a custom profile for your lighting+lens+camera will ensure accurate color, and consistent color - when ever you process art images using the same lighting+lens+camera.

4. Monitor Calibration: You will 100% need to calibrate your monitor in order to accurately see the color and contrast in your images - use a spyder tool to calibrate your monitor, and aim to update that calibration on a regular basis. Take note of ambient lighting in the room where you process your images, and follow the X-rite instructions to avoid ambient light from effecting your perceived color on you calibrated monitor.

FWIW - using the row of 'gray scale' patches on the passport's chart to set WB will get you wildly varying results - that's not the recommended target for accurate WB data, and is a common mistake when using color passport charts. If you are interested in setting accurate custom WB in-camera, use a transmission WB target, such as the Expodisc. Place the M11 at the subject position, pointed at your lighting. Use the M11's 'Grey Card' custom WB feature in-camera to set custom WB, with the Expodisc over the end of your Leica lens. This will give you accurate WB for your lights every time, and that WB setting will be stored in each image you then take of the artwork for that session. Along with using the custom color profile for color accuracy in your raw converter, you'll be able to get accurate and consistent color for all of your work.

Hope this helps. It looks like a lot of work, but once it's set up, it's point and click for accurate color ever time.

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[marchyman]

15 hours ago, CDodkin said:

Adobe Lightroom:
Go to the "Camera Calibration" panel.
Select the newly created profile from the "Profile" dropdown menu.
 

 

That is confusing. There is a "calibration" pane, but that is not where the profile is selected. The selection is made in the basic panel.

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[jaapv]

I have a daylight bulb 5500 K to light my editing space and neutral walls. Your eyes tend to adapt to the ambient light and lead you to false results despite monitor calibration. 

[MrFlip]

New to the forum but follow this and most other Leica forums, LFI,Leica Blog etc. 

In replies to the OP, I didn’t notice anyone speak of a. Color gamut, or b. 16 vs 14 bit file output, or c. Inherent lens color which among other things is influenced by coatings. 
After many years of frustrating digital color output from any number of systems, as a landscape and wildlife imager, I have found that there are 5 things that influence color accuracy beyond the imbedded scheme in the manufacturers’ software: 1. color gamut,  for which choices are pro rgb, Adobe rgb and srgb (Correct me if I am wrong is saying that Leica JPEGs can only be produced with srgb gamut) 2. Lens element choices and coatings on lenses 3. Camera profile, and 4. 16 vs 14 bit color, and 5. Exposure 

Not to open up pandora’s box, I  will explain what I have found produces very accurate results for my outdoor work. 

Shooting raw only (dng) SW to use Adobe or pro rgb, neutral or sometimes flat profile (not standard) and where possible 16 bit vs 14 (camera dependent). Adobe and pro rgb provide exponentially more colors than srgb, while neutral profile desaturates colors and reduces contrast somewhat and delivers more accurate (less dramatic) results.

i’ve also found that lenses of different models can produce subtlety different color bias under identical lighting, even those produced since 2012.

The problem that you have is that even with monitor calibration, you are still not able to see the full range of improvement in color gamut until you print. 

One manufacturer whose equipment I have used extensively has its own SW and in its color management menu a drop down allows you calibrate your monitor whether PC or Mac. 
 

The calibration also “corrects” your exposure output which is really an important issue. Using srgb and not calibrating I found that the screen was producing brighter images which were underexposed for printing. Underexposure also affects color output.  I have found a “correct”  in camera exposure is now ~ 1/3 stop brighter than the settings I used to use. 

I am extremely pleased with the results and the printer agrees. 

[Velo-city]

The topic of colour gamuts (of which there are quite a few) and monitor calibration is pretty vast - there are so many factors at play, especially on domestic and even prosumer monitors. The whole area is quite a mess, and ICC profiles etc didn't really solve anything - they were a band aid.  

[jaapv]

Umm… Many of us use Adobe RGB or P3 monitors   And know and understand how to manage a colour workflow. BTW bit 15 and 16 are mostly noise…

[jaapv]

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3 hours ago, Velo-city said:

The topic of colour gamuts (of which there are quite a few) and monitor calibration is pretty vast - there are so many factors at play, especially on domestic and even prosumer monitors. The whole area is quite a mess, and ICC profiles etc didn't really solve anything - they were a band aid.  

Agree For instance lack of  consistency across the screen is an issue that not all makers are able to handle. 

[Steadimann]

This is a bit out of topic but still concerning M11 colours

I intend to do a test with colour chart and a person to see how Leica M11 sensor reacts to tungsten (3200k) and daylight (5600k), maybe for the sake of interest I will include also LED lights at same temperatures. This will make an interesting result for seeing colour rendering results in different light sources + how much does camera sensor calibration under specific light changes the final result comparing stock camera profile vs. calibrated with colour chart under various lights.