Manual Focusing aids on SL3

[Carrot]

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I struggle using M rangefinder but enjoy using M lenses on SL3 and SL2-S.  I find focus peaking unreliable so mainly use magnification to help me focus, though not always successfully.  Fujifilm have various aids to manual focusing in their GFX and X cameras that I've used in the past ... in addition to focus peaking they have digital split image, digital microprism, focus map, and focus meter - see manual extract attached.  I am not technically minded, but would be interested to know from those on the forum that are, whether these additional Fujifilm features are things that Leica could implement via firmware updates (if they were so minded), or are these mechanical features that could not be incorporated into an existing body design?

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Edited July 24, 2024 by Carrot

[FlashGordonPhotography]

I’m sure they could. I don’t know if they will. Even simply magnifying a small portion of the EVF rather than the whole thing, would be a huge improvement.

You can always email them. Maybe they’ll add it to the list.

Gordon

[jaapv]

They probably could but it is highly doubtful that they will. But your focus problem: Often problems like these indicate an underlying eye condition, unnoticed in daily life, that an eye doctor can detect and correct. Also there is a technical aspect that I call lack of focus confidence. When focusing don’t go back and forth and back and forth in an attempt to be ultra precise. Focus-on-release leads to better results. 

[BernardC]

Those functions are probably based on the PDAF sensors, so Leica could implement them if they aren't patented.

However, I find that most focus "aids" are counterproductive. They aren't very accurate, and they hide/overlay image information. I just focus on the EVF, with the occasional magnified view to make sure that my eyes aren't getting tired.

One trick that I find useful is to visualize the whole focus plane instead of looking at a single point in my composition. The other trick is to start from a known focus position, which is almost always infinity. Combine the two and you can see the focus plane move like a wave from infinity toward your subject, you just need to click the shutter when the two meet.

As with most things in life, practice makes perfect.

[jaapv]

Or for instance when focusing on an animal ( virtually impossible when doing so on the fur) focus on the grass next to it. Bernard is right. Always focus down from infinity.

[Stuart Richardson]

I use magnified view when I have to, but I agree that focus peaking was never accurate enough for me and very disturbing to look at. Ultimately I decided that my M lenses were best on M cameras and I most enjoying using L mount lenses on the SL cameras. The problem is that the lenses are so sharp, and the sensors so high resolution that achieving critical focus is difficult to do without magnified live view or AF. I would be curious to hear if any of these Fuji methods were really precise and accurate. If they were, I agree that it would be very helpful.

[MrFriendly]

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Focus peaking on my A7RV is amazing, and it makes manual focus so much easier and joy to use.  I'm considering upgrading from my SL2-S to the SL3, and I wanted to know if focus peaking is any better between the two (contrast detect only vs phase detect).  I take the phase detect is being used in the A7RV to enhance the accuracy of the focus peaking?  Given that A7RV and the SL3 share the same sensor, the same should be possible on the Leica.  Whatever the case, focus peaking needs improvement. 

To me focus peaking (on A7RV) is far superior and quicker than zooming in or whatnot (and I have 20/20 vision).

[BernardC]

4 hours ago, MrFriendly said:

I take the phase detect is being used in the A7RV to enhance the accuracy of the focus peaking? 

Phase-detect inherently has lower accuracy than contrast-detect, but it is faster because it knows which direction to move the lens. For manual focus you get an arrow that tells you which way to turn the focus ring. That feature isn't implemented in all cameras, not sure about Sony.

Focus peaking is also a low-accuracy technique. It highlights areas of high contrast, but those areas aren't necessarily in focus. It was originally developed for standard-definition analogue television cameras where it works quite well at 1/10 of the linear resolution of modern still cameras.

What matters is finding the technique that works best for you. We instinctively compensate for a lack of accuracy in our focus aids by moving the lens back and forth to determine the range of "acceptable focus" and picking a spot in the middle. That's good enough for most use cases.

[LanceR]

I too have often considered why Leica has not implemented some of these other techniques on the SL cameras.  I have wondering if part of the issue is that it requires information from the lens during the manual focusing process.  For example, on the Fuji lenses that I had, it was not a mechanical focussing mechanism.  Turning the focus ring actuated the stepper motor of the focusing system.  The current focus distance is communicated from the lens to the camera.

With Manual focus with on an M lens, there is no electrical connection communicating this information.  An SL camera does not have any information on the position of focus.  On an M camera, there is the mechanical "connection" to affect rangefinder focusing mechanism on the camera when you turn the mechanical focus ring, but the SL cameras do not have that mechanism.  This is what initiates the auto zoom in the VisioFlex or LCD when turn the focusing ring on an M lens on an M camera.

I could be wrong, but I suspect the math involved requires information on the focus distance.

[LanceR]

Similar thought to the OP, I would like to get a green confirmation box around the eye when I manually focus an M lens on my SL3 when the eye is in focus.