petermcwerner Posted November 18, 2007 Share #1 Posted November 18, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! M8, Summicron C 40mm/2.0 at f/2.0 - 1/5800 sec - ISO=160 RAW + Capture One 100% crop Very good results, small and lightweight, might become my favorite lens. One caveat: it shows the 50mm lines, 35mm lines would be nearer to the actual result. I wonder whether this could be modified without too much hassle. Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! M8, Summicron C 40mm/2.0 at f/2.0 - 1/5800 sec - ISO=160 RAW + Capture One 100% crop Very good results, small and lightweight, might become my favorite lens. One caveat: it shows the 50mm lines, 35mm lines would be nearer to the actual result. I wonder whether this could be modified without too much hassle. ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/38387-m8-with-summicron-c-40mm20-first-impression/?do=findComment&comment=406068'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted November 18, 2007 Posted November 18, 2007 Hi petermcwerner, Take a look here M8 with Summicron-C 40mm/2.0, First impression. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Shootist Posted November 18, 2007 Share #2 Posted November 18, 2007 Yes it can. You have to file/grind/cut the lug that actuates the frame line selector lever. The 35mm lines are brought up by NOT activating that lever at all. In other word if you take any lens off the M8 the frame lines that are visible in the viewfinder are the 35/24 ones. This means that 35 and 24 mm lenses do NOT touch the FL selector lever at all. I haven't done it to mine but I'm going to. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
petermcwerner Posted November 18, 2007 Author Share #3 Posted November 18, 2007 Yes it can. You have to file/grind/cut the lug that actuates the frame line selector lever.The 35mm lines are brought up by NOT activating that lever at all. In other word if you take any lens off the M8 the frame lines that are visible in the viewfinder are the 35/24 ones. This means that 35 and 24 mm lenses do NOT touch the FL selector lever at all. I haven't done it to mine but I'm going to. Thanks, in the meantime I found a detailed description with pictures on how to do it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootist Posted November 18, 2007 Share #4 Posted November 18, 2007 Thanks, in the meantime I found a detailed description with pictures on how to do it. That's all well and good but I suggest you take the mount OFF the lens before you do any filing. At least that is what I would do (WWED). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
orjanf Posted November 18, 2007 Share #5 Posted November 18, 2007 I dremeled mine about one mm. The 35 frame lines are very close to right. I find the lens very sharp and easy to focus but it has a quite curved focal 'plane' when focused at a distance. The focus at the center agrees with the meter and, as far as can be judged, with the scale but edges are focused a lot closer to the camera. Has anyone else found this? If not I will try to find another specimen, it is a beautiful lens. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
neils Posted November 18, 2007 Share #6 Posted November 18, 2007 I had a 40 and it took maybe 6 slight swipes with a small sharp jewelers/modelers file to get it to the point where the 35mm frame showed. It was so much easier and faster than I expected. Dremels and grinding are overkill. All it takes is small slight swipes. I owuldn't even remove the mount to do it. Neil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootist Posted November 18, 2007 Share #7 Posted November 18, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) I had a 40 and it took maybe 6 slight swipes with a small sharp jewelers/modelers file to get it to the point where the 35mm frame showed. It was so much easier and faster than I expected. Dremels and grinding are overkill. All it takes is small slight swipes. I owuldn't even remove the mount to do it. Neil The only problem with leaving the mount on is if you get some brass/chrome covered brass in the lens or worse if ther is some on the mount and gets inside the M8 and damages the shutter or the sensor. It's not that hard or labor intensive to take it off and put it back on. I just dod mine and it took all of 15 minutes from start to finish, lens mounted on the camera. I used a dremel tool. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted November 18, 2007 Share #8 Posted November 18, 2007 ...It was so much easier and faster than I expected. Dremels and grinding are overkill. All it takes is small slight swipes. I owuldn't even remove the mount to do it. Agree. No problem at all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike prevette Posted November 19, 2007 Share #9 Posted November 19, 2007 I love that little lens so much. I have been using the "dreaded" voigtlander 40/1.4 a lot recently though, basicly same size, faser, but not as nice bokeh. I found them very similar in sharpness though. The Cron seemed to have a little more 'veiling' like youd expect from an older lens. _mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
neils Posted November 19, 2007 Share #10 Posted November 19, 2007 If you make your swipes away from the lens ie: don't saw away with the file any "grit" won't get into the lens. But I agree, now that I've taken off a mount to send to Milich it is indeed very easy if you have a good set of srewdrivers. You just have to reinstall it and see if you filed enough to trigger the frames you want. All worth it though. Wish I hadn't sold mine. Neil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
4X5B&W Posted November 19, 2007 Share #11 Posted November 19, 2007 Orjanf, I had a similar experience with the shots at infinity, the edges were not sharp (at infinity), but the foreground was. The central image was sharp with good depth of field. Decided I had a bad sample and returned the lens. I liked the lens, but did not see the value of a lens with that issue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
orjanf Posted November 19, 2007 Share #12 Posted November 19, 2007 Orjanf, I had a similar experience with the shots at infinity David, Thank you for responding. It seems to confirm what I found. Also found that Erwin Puts considers the outer zones ".. quite low in quality ... " For some pictures this quirk could be an advantage, imagine the DOF wide open of a carefully composed picture of a corridor or tree-lined path Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennersten Posted November 20, 2007 Share #13 Posted November 20, 2007 I love that lens also. Have been tried to code it? Is it needed? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootist Posted November 20, 2007 Share #14 Posted November 20, 2007 I love that lens also. Have been tried to code it? Is it needed? I have hand coded mine as a 35 f/2 ASPH. Just becasue that is one of the easiest codes to do, 4 black lines (one big swipe) with 1 white mark (actually didn't do anything) at each end (just left those areas the silver of the lens mount). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbarker13 Posted November 20, 2007 Share #15 Posted November 20, 2007 I filed one of these and a CV 40 - very easy to do. I left the mounts on. Just hit them each with a few blasts from a can of compressed air. Worked like a charm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Ortego Posted November 20, 2007 Share #16 Posted November 20, 2007 Spectacular shots! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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