mort linder Posted October 16, 2023 Share #1 Posted October 16, 2023 Advertisement (gone after registration) i am finding that reds are over exposed and loose detail . i set the camera to - .3 compensation , and i have not had too much problem with blown highlights , only the reds . any solution ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 16, 2023 Posted October 16, 2023 Hi mort linder, Take a look here over exposed reds. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
adan Posted October 16, 2023 Share #2 Posted October 16, 2023 I do a lot of M10 performance photography under colored stage lights (see below). And often need to bring down "hot" reds. I use the HSL (Hue/Saturation/Lightness - per color) and "highlights" controls in the image-processing software steps. And selectively "darken" the reds (and often oranges and yellows, which have a red component - R+G=Y). I use Adobe Camera Raw and Photoshop in two-step processing of .DNG files, and darken reds via HSL at both stages, if needed. Also, I default to -0.7 exposure compensation with ANY M digital with the classic metering (off-the-shutter). The strong-center-weighted metering pattern can't account for every part/color/tone of the picture. And it is much easier to bring up hidden shadow details in digital than fix over-cooked highlights. Additionally, if using manual ISO, avoid ISO 100 - it is slight "pull" ISO (the camera overexposes at least 1/3rd stop intentionally, and then uses less amplification of the data (less "development") to reduce noise - but is right on the razor's edge for blowing some highlights. And watch out for "Auto" or "As Shot" white-balancing under artificial lights - they tend to leave the warm colors too warm and bright as well. I sample the grays and whites myself with the white-balance "eye-dropper" tool. Finally - but this is a whole separate approach - I tend to use the 1970s-80s Mandler/Canada lenses, which are inherently a bit more cyan (minus-red) than Leica's post-2000 lenses. M10 v.1 with 1971 50 Summicron v.3. - very "mixed" stage and ambient lighting. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/383053-over-exposed-reds/?do=findComment&comment=4876438'>More sharing options...
crhulhu Posted October 20, 2023 Share #3 Posted October 20, 2023 (edited) On 10/17/2023 at 3:02 AM, adan said: I do a lot of M10 performance photography under colored stage lights (see below). And often need to bring down "hot" reds. I use the HSL (Hue/Saturation/Lightness - per color) and "highlights" controls in the image-processing software steps. And selectively "darken" the reds (and often oranges and yellows, which have a red component - R+G=Y). I use Adobe Camera Raw and Photoshop in two-step processing of .DNG files, and darken reds via HSL at both stages, if needed. Also, I default to -0.7 exposure compensation with ANY M digital with the classic metering (off-the-shutter). The strong-center-weighted metering pattern can't account for every part/color/tone of the picture. And it is much easier to bring up hidden shadow details in digital than fix over-cooked highlights. Additionally, if using manual ISO, avoid ISO 100 - it is slight "pull" ISO (the camera overexposes at least 1/3rd stop intentionally, and then uses less amplification of the data (less "development") to reduce noise - but is right on the razor's edge for blowing some highlights. And watch out for "Auto" or "As Shot" white-balancing under artificial lights - they tend to leave the warm colors too warm and bright as well. I sample the grays and whites myself with the white-balance "eye-dropper" tool. Finally - but this is a whole separate approach - I tend to use the 1970s-80s Mandler/Canada lenses, which are inherently a bit more cyan (minus-red) than Leica's post-2000 lenses. M10 v.1 with 1971 50 Summicron v.3. - very "mixed" stage and ambient lighting. ISO100 is not a pull setting on the M10R. @mort linder I find with the M10R (or the M10 cameras) it’s easier to treat them all manual. RAW and no JPEGs. Exposure compensation I never use. I turned it off actually. Understand the exposure and what your camera is telling you. The arrows in the viewfinder are a guide. Move your camera around the scene and see what your camera is telling you and then lock in your settings. Edited October 20, 2023 by crhulhu Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted October 20, 2023 Share #4 Posted October 20, 2023 On 10/16/2023 at 6:28 AM, mort linder said: i am finding that reds are over exposed and loose detail . i set the camera to - .3 compensation , and i have not had too much problem with blown highlights , only the reds . any solution ? Make a camera profile for your raw converter. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Bonn Posted October 20, 2023 Share #5 Posted October 20, 2023 4 hours ago, crhulhu said: ISO100 is not a pull setting on the M10R. It is on the m10, which I believe the OP is using judging by his image thread participation. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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