Leica Summitar 5cm/ 50mm f2 CLA

[Big Jim]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Hi

Can anyone suggest where I might be able to get my Leica Summitar 5cm/ 50mm f2 serviced ? Preferably in Germany but if there is a specialist elsewhere in Europe I’d  e interested to know. Any tips appreciated! Thanks 

Hallo
ich habe ein Leica Summitar 5cm/ 50mm f2, das einen Service gebrauchen könnte.
Gibt es jemanden in Deutschland, den Sie empfehlen können, der diese Arbeiten durchführen kann ? Inklusive Reinigung der Blenden und Linsen ? Für jede Empfehlung bin ich dankbar.

Edited September 18, 2023 by Big Jim
Added English

[spydrxx]

If you scroll down to the Historica and Collectors Forum you will find Leica servicers around the world. I can't guarantee the list is up to date, as there have been some retirements and deaths fairly recently, but it is a good start. Also just searching the Leica forum for CLA should get you some good answers. I live in the USA, so my suggestions, being local, aren't of help to you.

[Big Jim]

Thanks @spydrxx. I have now received the lens which is a 1951 6 blade coated and wanted to ask a question.

I’m probably being over cautious but just wanted to check. Doing the flashlight test the front glass has a vey noticeable fingerprint. Can I clean this as I do my more modern lenses with a lens cloth and ROR lens cleaner ? Or will this leave scratches? 
 

 

Edited September 21, 2023 by Big Jim

[Big Jim]

So I managed to remove the fingerprint from the lens with a very gentle light touch of a cotton bud and a drop of ROR.

I have a further question about the Summitar. My aperture ring fortunately isn’t stiff but I notice it can be set very slightly before the F2 mark and the same distance after f16. Is this normal ? 

[spydrxx]

Hi Jim - mine has comsistent 5hroughout the range...not stiff but not loose either. Glad to hear your element cleaned up.

Steve

[Ecar]

2 hours ago, Big Jim said:

My aperture ring fortunately isn’t stiff but I notice it can be set very slightly before the F2 mark and the same distance after f16. Is this normal ? 

Yes. It's frequent on vintage lenses from all manufacturers (and also happens on some modern ones...).

[Big Jim]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I’m the end I got this lens CLA‘d. The person that carried out the work did mention some minor separation at the outer edges of the glass 😟 that shouldn’t impact the image. The aperture is now super smooth. An example with B/W film 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

colour 

Edited October 6, 2024 by Big Jim
Update

[Big Jim]

So generally I’m really happy with this lens but wanted to ask about the following images. I don’t necessarily find the iPhone images better but the colours are more realistic to how I remember them. Not all photos made with the Summitar lack colour but these two look a bit washed out. I was wondering if this could be flare ? Or overexposure? Is there was anything I can do to avoid this ? 

iPhone 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Summitar

Edited October 6, 2024 by Big Jim
Do

[Big Jim]

iPhone 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Summitar

 

Edited October 6, 2024 by Big Jim
Fo

[LocalHero1953]

What camera did you use? How did you meter the exposure? If a film camera, what film did you use, and how was it processed, and scanned? If a digital camera, did you shoot in raw or jpg? How did you process the image?

An iPhone is designed to produce an attractive, sharpened, contrasty, saturated image straight off. Both film and digital cameras usually will not (though some can produce jpgs that look like this, if exposed correctly). Film and raw digital usually need processing/editing to get the same look, but can be made to look better than an iPhone image. 

Your second shot is straight into the sun and shows signs of flare.

[spydrxx]

A comparison of the two shots looks like the camera position, hence metering, changed vertically between the two shots. By adjusting the levels slider I could approximate the Iphone depth of color....although I didn't try it, perhaps a touch on the saturation button would put the icing on the cake. Flare was very noticeable in the camera shot.

[Big Jim]

8 hours ago, LocalHero1953 said:

What camera did you use? How did you meter the exposure? If a film camera, what film did you use, and how was it processed, and scanned? If a digital camera, did you shoot in raw or jpg? How did you process the image?

An iPhone is designed to produce an attractive, sharpened, contrasty, saturated image straight off. Both film and digital cameras usually will not (though some can produce jpgs that look like this, if exposed correctly). Film and raw digital usually need processing/editing to get the same look, but can be made to look better than an iPhone image. 

Your second shot is straight into the sun and shows signs of flare.

Sorry, yes I should have mentioned that. Leica M3 metered with a hand held light meter. Kodak Gold 200 film processed by a company in Berlin. So in the first shot perhaps i should have metered for the shadows? 

[250swb]

Both sets of images show the film image to have had more exposure so your meter has been aimed primarily at the shadows, hence the lighter shadows. There is no rule, maybe you wanted it that way, but if you meter for the shadows  the shadows get lighter because the meter is trying to make them match a mid tone (called 18% grey but don't let 'grey' confuse you, it's just level for reflected light). So to make the film image match the iPhone image in exposure you'd meter for the mid tones or highlights, this would give less exposure and so the shadows will be deeper and the highlights less blown out. You also don't have to meter from the subject itself, just find something that reflects a mid grey tone, so green grass, or the palm of your hand, and you'll know that the meter is now giving a reading that should cover the average range of illumination from shadow to highlight. Conversely if your meter has an invercone and can meter for incident light you would simply hold the invercone towards the main light source and use that reading, it again gives a reading that should be good for both shadows and highlights.

Edited October 7, 2024 by 250swb

[Big Jim]

Thanks everyone ! Still lots to learn ! Anyway I’m really happy with this lens and can recommend it. 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Edited October 7, 2024 by Big Jim