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Ahhh, yes. Visual effect. Completely irrelevant for photos.

On topic: it's doable, but will require time and training. If you never want to miss shots, go with one of the new guns out there.

 

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16 minutes ago, insomnia said:

Ahhh, yes. Visual effect. Completely irrelevant for photos.

 

 

 

Why is everyone on here taking things so literally? When it comes to art and photography there are lots of ambiguities. Of course shallow depth of field has validity as a visual effect, but more often than not these days it’s just that and bragging rights about owning a $5-10k lens. Esp when it comes to photographing ‘children running,’ which keeps getting pointed out to me is the op’s question and cannot be deviated from when answering the question, a lens shot at 1.4 would not be my go to. 

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29 minutes ago, Simone_DF said:

Sounds like an ad for Lomography

Nope. Big difference between the photographer being ‘loose’ and the gear being so. The fact that one doesn’t see the actual image being made at the time of taking allows the photographer a certain leeway and mystery in making unique images with M’s I often felt slr’s or EVF’s could inhibit - for me.

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26 minutes ago, charlesphoto99 said:

Nope. Big difference between the photographer being ‘loose’ and the gear being so. The fact that one doesn’t see the actual image being made at the time of taking allows the photographer a certain leeway and mystery in making unique images with M’s I often felt slr’s or EVF’s could inhibit - for me.

No no, I'm not making that up, that's actually the whole idea behind Lomography. They never mention their gear, all their idea is having the photographer being as loose as possible:

"they’re the very essence of our “Don’t Think, Just Shoot” motto"

"calmly hold your finger on the shutter button, grab your guts and be quick to catch the wink of time and accidental destiny. Hold your breath, be brave, take a chance, move, shoot, have fun and act fast – that’s Lomography!"

https://www.lomography.com/about/the-ten-golden-rules

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3 hours ago, charlesphoto99 said:

IMO the more unique and interesting pictures come from pushing yourself and your gear past the comfort point. 

Really? Not my experience at all. Subject lighting and composition are the three key elements. Technicalities are in a support role. But I'm really not sure that photographing children really sits well as anything other than trying to capture memories for the vast majority of parents (Leica owning ones included).

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2 hours ago, DadDadDaddyo said:

I've always wondered...

How did Cartier-Bresson get all those people to stand so still for him??

Amazing social skills, I guess...

 No - being aware and anticipating the situation. Even then, even some of his best photographs were not in critical focus. An irrelevancy. The better your photograph, the less relevance technical excellence has.

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Sometimes "close enough" is just fine when using an M rangefinder with a subject in action.  I came upon this yesterday with an M11 and 1990 35mm pre-asph titanium Summilux and shot it wide open because there was no time to stop down.   That's probably not the lens I would have chosen if I knew this was coming up.    

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A few seconds later, same settings.  

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Am 14.6.2023 um 15:43 schrieb raizans:

A list of focusing techniques to choose as the situation requires:

1) Hyperfocal focusing

2) Zone focusing

3) Scale focusing

4) Scale focusing by feel

5) Preset focusing

6) Focus with your feet (i.e., tracking)

7) Rangefinder focusing

Still improving my M rangefinder skills. Just for my understanding. If I go for 2) zone focusing. After adjusting the lens depending on aperture and desired distance it doesn´t make sense to confirm the setting through the rangefinder. For example: Setting a 35 Summilux @f8 for zone focusing  between 2 and approximately 7m the rangefinder isn´t automatically aligned within this zone. Correct? 

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The rangefinder will be aligned at the distance shown on your Depth of Field scale, the distance opposite the center mark. 

The zone will extend from the closer distance opposite your current F Stop to the further distance opposite your current F Stop at the other side of the Depth of Field scale. 

You can easily see, on the Depth of Field scale, the effect of aperture on the extent of the zone. 

Knowing your current F Stop, you can use the Depth of Field scale to set the zone where you want it. You don't need to use the rangefinder to do so.... 

....Which loops us back to the first paragraph in this response...

 Because: <return to first paragraph...>

Edited by DadDadDaddyo
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On 6/14/2023 at 11:23 AM, pgk said:

Really? Not my experience at all. Subject lighting and composition are the three key elements. Technicalities are in a support role. But I'm really not sure that photographing children really sits well as anything other than trying to capture memories for the vast majority of parents (Leica owning ones included).

I think i was a bit crude in my theory there - I guess for me the magic with M’s lie in capturing the unexpected. Of course any camera can do that (just don’t look through the viewfinder) but the M’s UX makes it more conducive to do so, to be more ‘imperfect’ with the image in an interesting way while at the same time being technically perfect with sensor/film and lens. 

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1 hour ago, DadDadDaddyo said:

The rangefinder will be aligned at the distance shown on your Depth of Field scale, the distance opposite the center mark. 

The zone will extend from the closer distance opposite your current F Stop to the further distance opposite your current F Stop at the other side of the Depth of Field scale. 

You can easily see, on the Depth of Field scale, the effect of aperture on the extent of the zone. 

Knowing your current F Stop, you can use the Depth of Field scale to set the zone where you want it. You don't need to use the rangefinder to do so.... 

....Which loops us back to the first paragraph in this response...

 Because: <return to first paragraph...>

Unfortunately the DOF scale is off by two stops on a hi-res digital camera and actual DOF depends on the size of your print. 

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17 minutes ago, jaapv said:

Unfortunately the DOF scale is off by two stops on a hi-res digital camera and actual DOF depends on the size of your print. 

IME depth of field is best used as an accessory fail safe for when you miss the point of focus, and it’s always best practice to try and get the focus at least near where it needs to be first. But if something happens during that focusing, I will snap the shutter no matter what, and perhaps the dof will help me out and cover it, but I never rely on merely dof scale setting for zone focusing. 

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31 minutes ago, jaapv said:
2 hours ago, DadDadDaddyo said:

The rangefinder will be aligned at the distance shown on your Depth of Field scale, the distance opposite the center mark. 

The zone will extend from the closer distance opposite your current F Stop to the further distance opposite your current F Stop at the other side of the Depth of Field scale. 

You can easily see, on the Depth of Field scale, the effect of aperture on the extent of the zone. 

Knowing your current F Stop, you can use the Depth of Field scale to set the zone where you want it. You don't need to use the rangefinder to do so.... 

....Which loops us back to the first paragraph in this response...

 Because: <return to first paragraph...>

Expand  

Unfortunately the DOF scale is off by two stops on a hi-res digital camera and actual DOF depends on the size of your print. 

Off by two stops at what distance?

How does this differ from what we expect from a fine-grained film emulsion?

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21 minutes ago, DadDadDaddyo said:

Off by two stops at what distance?

How does this differ from what we expect from a fine-grained film emulsion?

The circle of confusion used for the calculations upon which the depth of field scales are based is no longer valid. A fine grained film emulsion is far less demanding than a high MPixel sensor in these terms and will not need as small a circle of confusion. Two stops is a rough guide which works reasonably well depending on just how demanding you are.

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It differs because film had a thickness and an emulsion layer which diffused the light. Also film was never perfectly flat. A sensor has a single flat surface which is far more precise. The higher the pixel count the more unsharpness gets resolved. Thus the DOF is considerable more narrow than the scale indicates. 

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Excellent replies. Thanks!

I take it the distance scale can still be used to set the rough center of the DoF. The variance would be in the extent of the depth in front of and beyond the center point.

Is that statement accurate?

Thanks again! This has been useful. 

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