Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

14 minutes ago, DadDadDaddyo said:

Excellent replies. Thanks!

I take it the distance scale can still be used to set the rough center of the DoF. The variance would be in the extent of the depth in front of and beyond the center point.

Is that statement accurate?

Thanks again! This has been useful. 

Yes, that is correct. A smart way to use the distance scale is to set it to approximately the distance of your subject and then set the aperture to a number that gives you a sufficient range of depth of field on both sides of the focal plane.

Link to post
Share on other sites

30 minutes ago, DadDadDaddyo said:

Excellent replies. Thanks!

I take it the distance scale can still be used to set the rough center of the DoF. The variance would be in the extent of the depth in front of and beyond the center point.

Is that statement accurate?

Thanks again! This has been useful. 

Yes, even better if you let your subject move into the plane of focus as indicated by the rangefinder patch.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah, a well-known, good old fashioned technique!

Thanks, I hadn't appreciated the significance of differences at a physical level between the sensor and the emulsion. 

As well, our habitual viewing of our images at 100% on a high-res screen has been accompanied by large scale ink jets (I run a 24" Epson at home) resulting in enlargements to roughly 24x36 inches on occasion at my house, and certainly to the 16x20 scale more frequently, destined for critical display under strong light. Clearly, demands and requirements have evolved. 

Hence a previous comment I made suggesting people examine their film work through a loupe, and that they might be surprised by what they see. I use a loupe on my film, prints, and of course when focusing one of my Large Format cameras. 

I've been doing photographic (chemical) enlargements since the 1960s, but rarely strayed beyond 11x14 inches, usually living at 8x10 or 5x7. Good old Kodak Polycontrast, though my first filter set was originally for Dupont Varigam. Today I use a color head and dial in the Polycontrast filtration (you can search the equivalents on line). I'll print Medium or Large Format to 16x20, which I develop in a drum. Or, I'll simply run it through my Imacon Precision II and print it on the Epson. 

The Monochrom files I've worked with, in some ways, feel more like 4x5 scanned on the Imacon than they do like scanned Medium Format. Probably my imagination, but they are truly clean, clean files!

Thanks again!

Edited by DadDadDaddyo
Link to post
Share on other sites

Am 19.6.2023 um 14:21 schrieb DadDadDaddyo:

The rangefinder will be aligned at the distance shown on your Depth of Field scale, the distance opposite the center mark. 

The zone will extend from the closer distance opposite your current F Stop to the further distance opposite your current F Stop at the other side of the Depth of Field scale. 

You can easily see, on the Depth of Field scale, the effect of aperture on the extent of the zone. 

Knowing your current F Stop, you can use the Depth of Field scale to set the zone where you want it. You don't need to use the rangefinder to do so.... 

....Which loops us back to the first paragraph in this response...

 Because: <return to first paragraph...>

Getting to know the M11 continues. Zone focusing for street photography works great. Understood.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

But with 60 MP it doesn't work for "landscape". Even the Visoflex 2 resolution is too high. 35 Summilux, upper limit for zone focusing set to infinite @f8.   

Not really blurry. But the horizon is only sharp when you make use of the full adjustment range. Infinite set to the center mark then it turns razor sharp.

Just correct me if I'm wrong. But times have changes. Getting sharp images in former decades was less challenging 😇

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Quote from Günther Osterloh: "If you want a sharp horizon, focus on the horizon".
For really sharp landscape photography, use focus stacking.

There are dozens of tutorials on the Internet, for instance:

 

 

Or:

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...