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best looking and/or most confortable strap for SL2 with SL lens ?


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On 1/4/2023 at 4:04 PM, proenca said:

... I know that this topic will "spawn" 300 opinions and that's the whole ideia - which is the strap that works and didnt work ...

Peak Design for a single reason :  Attaching or switching from one strap to another or go strapless is faster than changing a lens.  Depending on the camera or lens, I use the Slide Light, the Leash, the Cuff or... nothing when on a tripod for example. 

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11 hours ago, lawman said:

Please describe the design flaw you refer to - thanks

The design flaw is how the metal lug works and the position of the two holes.

The end of the strap has two holes: one large and one small, with a slit connecting the holes. As designed, you slip the lug through the large hole to secure the strap. When weighted down by the camera, the larger hole can (and did in my case) slip over the lug and disengage.

The position of the holes should be reversed: use the large hole to slip over the lug and when weighted down by the camera the lug would slide to the smaller hole so the strap cannot pull over the lug.

I had an SL2 with an M 50 lux lens attached, the strap disengaged, and the camera dropped @ 20" to a composite deck surface. The strap would not have failed had the lug been sitting in the small hole.

 

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46 minutes ago, Pixeleater said:

The design flaw is how the metal lug works and the position of the two holes.

The end of the strap has two holes: one large and one small, with a slit connecting the holes. As designed, you slip the lug through the large hole to secure the strap. When weighted down by the camera, the larger hole can (and did in my case) slip over the lug and disengage.

The position of the holes should be reversed: use the large hole to slip over the lug and when weighted down by the camera the lug would slide to the smaller hole so the strap cannot pull over the lug.

I had an SL2 with an M 50 lux lens attached, the strap disengaged, and the camera dropped @ 20" to a composite deck surface. The strap would not have failed had the lug been sitting in the small hole.

 

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unforgivable.  I am not too fond of my rocknroll straps for my m11 either.  they are just a bit roughly finished. 

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2 hours ago, Pixeleater said:

The design flaw is how the metal lug works and the position of the two holes.

The end of the strap has two holes: one large and one small, with a slit connecting the holes. As designed, you slip the lug through the large hole to secure the strap. When weighted down by the camera, the larger hole can (and did in my case) slip over the lug and disengage.

The position of the holes should be reversed: use the large hole to slip over the lug and when weighted down by the camera the lug would slide to the smaller hole so the strap cannot pull over the lug.

I had an SL2 with an M 50 lux lens attached, the strap disengaged, and the camera dropped @ 20" to a composite deck surface. The strap would not have failed had the lug been sitting in the small hole.

 

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They must have redesigned, or at least changed these straps; mine do not have 2 holes at all, rather a single hole with a small slot. This strap is new to me so I cannot speak to the long term, but initially they are very secure. 

 

As to fit and finish, I have had several straps from RnR, and all have been very nicely finished. 

Brad

 

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Kobra, my SL2 strap is from December 2020. Loved the way it felt and flexed over the shoulder.

A word of caution. The diameter of the hole on your strap appears to be unchanged from the version I have. On my strap, the stud has a bulb head which is 5mm diameter, the large hole is 4mm diameter, and the small hole is 2mm diameter. Leather does stretch and that hole will start to lose its shape and stretch when carrying an S/SL2/SL2-S and lens. They should have kept the 2 holes and reversed their configuration (as I suggested in my previous post), or added a 2nd stud so the strap connects at 2 points which would have distributed the weight load, etc.

I did a brief search and there are ways to add a 2nd stud to the strap, but I'm too lazy to tackle it. So many straps out there and many are hanging in my closet.

Enjoy that camera!

 

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4 hours ago, Pixeleater said:

Kobra, my SL2 strap is from December 2020. Loved the way it felt and flexed over the shoulder.

A word of caution. The diameter of the hole on your strap appears to be unchanged from the version I have. On my strap, the stud has a bulb head which is 5mm diameter, the large hole is 4mm diameter, and the small hole is 2mm diameter. Leather does stretch and that hole will start to lose its shape and stretch when carrying an S/SL2/SL2-S and lens. They should have kept the 2 holes and reversed their configuration (as I suggested in my previous post), or added a 2nd stud so the strap connects at 2 points which would have distributed the weight load, etc.

I did a brief search and there are ways to add a 2nd stud to the strap, but I'm too lazy to tackle it. So many straps out there and many are hanging in my closet.

Enjoy that camera!

 

Thanks @Pixeleater , I appreciate the heads up! 

Do you know where I could find the info on adding a 2nd stud; after this thread I was thinking of doing that. Thanks in advance for anything you can share. 

Brad

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2 hours ago, leicableguy said:

Is there an option that uses the PD anchors on a non-PD strap?  No way I'm using a strap with metal buckles that will scratch the camera!  I've seen a few on Etsy, but would prefer a "name-brand" solution.  

 

https://cleversupply.co

Very nice leather from a small business. 

Just be aware the famous PD anchors are made with a metal strip on the back that may or may not be a problem for easily marked or scratched camera surfaces. Many don't seem to worry about camera strap marks anyway and prefer the convenience of the PD anchors design with customer leather straps. 

 

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  • 10 months later...
On 1/15/2023 at 1:28 PM, Pixeleater said:

The design flaw is how the metal lug works and the position of the two holes.

The end of the strap has two holes: one large and one small, with a slit connecting the holes. As designed, you slip the lug through the large hole to secure the strap. When weighted down by the camera, the larger hole can (and did in my case) slip over the lug and disengage.

The position of the holes should be reversed: use the large hole to slip over the lug and when weighted down by the camera the lug would slide to the smaller hole so the strap cannot pull over the lug.

I had an SL2 with an M 50 lux lens attached, the strap disengaged, and the camera dropped @ 20" to a composite deck surface. The strap would not have failed had the lug been sitting in the small hole.

 

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I ordered the Goliath this Black Friday and after seeing this I am regretting the purchase. Thanks for posting.

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As a reference point, look at the Billingham bag straps. The stud enters the strap through the large hole and slides upwards into a small hole. The strap cannot disengage until you intentionally hold the strap and pull the cover down to slide the stud through the large hole. For some inexplicable reason RnR has not grasped this simple concept.

 

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On 1/4/2023 at 5:26 PM, Jean-Michel said:

Well, here is opinion number 7!

Check out https://www.harrybenz.com/shop

Harry made me a custom length Brogue for my SL2. The hinge design makes perfect sense, and I found that it works perfectly for me. 

At the cost of repeating myself: it is worth looking at the Harry Benz strap. It is very strong, supple and simple — but very intelligently designed. 

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