Baxter Posted October 3, 2007 Share #1 Posted October 3, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) I am looking for a more permanent solution to hand coding my 3 Zeiss ZM lenses (21, 28 and 50mm) than application of nail varnish on the mount surface. I do not want to send lenses across to USA for machining. At my school, we have a basic CAD controlled milling machine which I believe is capable of creating the recesses for paint. There appear to be two options to utilise this facility. 1. Program the lens mount info into the computer and mill each slot in correct place. For this I require accurate data for the lens mount dimensions. But would offer repeatablility. 2. Use the Dymo tape method to determine precise location (so far there has been an element of hit or miss), then manually control milling machine to create recesses for black paint slots. I was intending to practise on the screw mount adaptor for my CV 90mm. Therefore could anyone please point me to a source for the lens mount dimensions? Also any other considerations appreciated (excluding to buy Leica lenses!). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 3, 2007 Posted October 3, 2007 Hi Baxter, Take a look here Milling lens mount for coding. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
marknorton Posted October 3, 2007 Share #2 Posted October 3, 2007 You can look at the position of the individual sensor elements on the camera lens mount and reference them to the notch on the lens mount. That said, the quality of John's work is excellent and it's much lower risk to remove the lens mounts yourself and DHL them to him to machine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted October 3, 2007 Share #3 Posted October 3, 2007 I think if you have access to a CNC CAD controlled milling machine, you maybe have some good measuring device.. and can get all the dimensions you need to setup the correct machinig cycle; in my opinion, the main problem of such a machinig process is that if you have to machine the lens (not simply a BM adapter) you have to fasten the body lens with lot of attention: BM mount is made of hard steel... you need a proper milling tool and setup anyway machining parameters (rotational speed, feed ratio...) that can cause risky vibrations on the lens body if not correctly fastened... and this wouldn't be nice for a complex lens assembly. I have red (here, I seem) that the coding at Leica factory is made DISMOUNTING the lens mount from the lens glass assembly... but I haven't idea if this is an easy operation to be made "in house". Me too maybe have access to a "self managed" solution : a friend of mine, a distinguished railways hobbist, has a milling machine I am tempted to try... have to find the correct tools... then I plan to start with a BM adapter, and then with some lens of mine with which I can afford some risk (I have a very old and worn Summar 50...) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
voightL Posted October 3, 2007 Share #4 Posted October 3, 2007 I am looking for a more permanent solution to hand coding my 3 Zeiss ZM lenses (21, 28 and 50mm) than application of nail varnish on the mount surface. I do not want to send lenses across to USA for machining. At my school, we have a basic CAD controlled milling machine which I believe is capable of creating the recesses for paint. There appear to be two options to utilise this facility. 1. Program the lens mount info into the computer and mill each slot in correct place. For this I require accurate data for the lens mount dimensions. But would offer repeatablility. 2. Use the Dymo tape method to determine precise location (so far there has been an element of hit or miss), then manually control milling machine to create recesses for black paint slots. I was intending to practise on the screw mount adaptor for my CV 90mm. Therefore could anyone please point me to a source for the lens mount dimensions? Also any other considerations appreciated (excluding to buy Leica lenses!). For ZM21mm you need to change to a ZM28 mount: See discussion in the following threads: http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-m8-forum/31640-21mm-biogon-m8.html http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-m8-forum/34146-zeiss-distagon-t-21mm-f2-8-a.html Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlm Posted October 3, 2007 Share #5 Posted October 3, 2007 knock yourself out; on the other hand, I offer the service for $25 with about 1 week turnaround. jm@milich.com Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitz Posted October 3, 2007 Share #6 Posted October 3, 2007 John, I have seen reference to your services many times. But there never is any information as to where you are located and what scope of services you offer. I'm interested in CV lenses, some with M mount, and older Leica lenses that can't be coded by Leica. Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnalex141r Posted October 3, 2007 Share #7 Posted October 3, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) knock yourself out; on the other hand, I offer the service for $25 with about 1 week turnaround. jm@milich.com I totally agree with jlm - I have the machinery to do this. Please dont ask a "friend" to do this - I get quite a few requests, and people just don't realize how many hours/days it takes to do something properly, especially in metal. jlm has a (from what I have seen of his work on this site, a very) good reputation for doing really good work. $25.00 is a very good price for this work, IMHO. JohnS. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlm Posted October 3, 2007 Share #8 Posted October 3, 2007 contact me via e-mail jm@milich.com Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted October 3, 2007 Share #9 Posted October 3, 2007 I have red (here, I seem) that the coding at Leica factory is made DISMOUNTING the lens mount from the lens glass assembly... but I haven't idea if this is an easy operation to be made "in house"... Luigi, they remove the old lens mount and replace it with a new coded one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
papimuzo Posted October 3, 2007 Share #10 Posted October 3, 2007 Hi all, I'm just to testify that John has milled three CV LTM frames to the perfection and I was enough brave to dismount a Leica Summilux 50 to send the bayonet mount:eek: (Leica refused to code it as it was one of the helicoid ramp included type) and they had not the special frame available). John worked out nicely the recesses and I could remount it coded...and get fully working Summilux 50/1.4. All this for $25. and through the Atlantic:) . Hope this help fearsome people... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marknorton Posted October 3, 2007 Share #11 Posted October 3, 2007 Marcel, is that the 50 Summilux with the 4 screws around the rim of the lens to attach the bayonet ring? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GarethC Posted October 3, 2007 Share #12 Posted October 3, 2007 Got my bits and pieces yesterday from John, not quite across the Atlantic, just north of the US in God's Country I'd have to contradict John's advice, don't "knock yourself out", send them to him. If you want a solution that is permanent, well finished and befitting the craftsmanship of Leica get John to to the work. As you can tell, one more happy customer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
volkerhopf Posted October 3, 2007 Share #13 Posted October 3, 2007 Just a word of warning - I have removed the flange from Leice and CV lenses and reasembled them after the recesses were added by JM (great work!) even the TRI Elmar. But I would not try again to do a Minolta M lens! It is very difficult to get the flange back on and have the focussing working again! Actually it is still not working. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
giordano Posted October 3, 2007 Share #14 Posted October 3, 2007 1. Program the lens mount info into the computer and mill each slot in correct place. For this I require accurate data for the lens mount dimensions. But would offer repeatablility. I took them from the file "leica-codes.pdf" which is attached to a post here http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/digital-forum/13272-self-coded-35mm-summicron-m-asph-3.html#post163657 . Worked nicely (mounted the adapter on an old-fashioned lathe with a dividing head on the mandrel and cut the little slots with a toolpost grinder). I was intending to practise on the screw mount adaptor for my CV 90mm. Most LTM adapters have a cutaway where the slots need to be. AFAIK only some very old Leitz adapters and the new series of CV ones have metal in the right place. I've seen a posting about silver-soldering a little tab in place, but worry that this might distort the flange. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean_reid Posted October 4, 2007 Share #15 Posted October 4, 2007 Most LTM adapters have a cutaway where the slots need to be. AFAIK only some very old Leitz adapters and the new series of CV ones have metal in the right place. I've seen a posting about silver-soldering a little tab in place, but worry that this might distort the flange. It's much simpler to just get one of John's LT-M8 adapters (milled for coding). Cheers, Sean Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrogers Posted October 4, 2007 Share #16 Posted October 4, 2007 Leica couldn't code several of my lenses early this year. Not long after seeing his work, I sent John three flanges (35 cron asph, 90 AA and 21 asph). Back in a week, excellent work, and a great price. Any lens I need coded is getting done this way. Until later, --clyde Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
J_Brittenson Posted October 4, 2007 Share #17 Posted October 4, 2007 How hard is it to remove the flange? I see three small screws near the back 120 degrees apart on my 35/2. If I take them out, will I be able to remove and flange without messing up anything else? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivar B Posted October 4, 2007 Share #18 Posted October 4, 2007 How hard is it to remove the flange? I see three small screws near the back 120 degrees apart on my 35/2. If I take them out, will I be able to remove and flange without messing up anything else? This is very easy - I removed two flanges and sent them to Milich for recessions, and there was absolutely no problem mounting them back on. I see some people issuing warnings about the fact that the lens may somehow become misaligned, but this did not seem to happen to me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carstenw Posted October 4, 2007 Share #19 Posted October 4, 2007 Jan, which version of the 35/2? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
papimuzo Posted October 4, 2007 Share #20 Posted October 4, 2007 Marcel, is that the 50 Summilux with the 4 screws around the rim of the lens to attach the bayonet ring? Sorry to be late Mark;) Yes it is! Sent it to Leica and reply was "Impossible to code". So thanks to some posts here I took my courage and... Remounting requested some patience... as I had not located the exact position when pieces fall apart:rolleyes: So by trial-and-error method (gently!!) I could get the good engagement (the helicoid thread is 8 or 10 threads type...) and get the right infinity position. BTW this delicate lens mount type is not simple but the optical block is so independent as a whole piece. Hope this help. Regards. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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