Q2 Monochrom. Making the raw files more dynamic?

[fontilan]

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I’ve been working with the Monochrom RAW files and I’ve been finding them fairly flat, grey and muted. I like to do as little adjustment as I can get away with using Lightroom and I’m just wondering how you all work with them in order to get the dynamic range right and make the detail pop?

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[Le Chef]

If you’re not using the histogram in the camera that’s a good place to start, as is fixing ISO at the lowest rating that will work on the day you are shooting.

I don’t see LightRoom as a tool to creat exaggerated effects - it’s really like dodging and burning when developing and printing film - you just use it to get the exposure corrections you need.

[PhotoCruiser]

vor 25 Minuten schrieb Le Chef:

I don’t see LightRoom as a tool to creat exaggerated effects - it’s really like dodging and burning when developing and printing film - you just use it to get the exposure corrections you need.

Absolutely!

It's the amount of editing what makes the difference between a awesome and a unrealistic, over edited photo.

Chris

[fontilan]

I agree on Lightroom. I use it very lightly touch and so in-camera is probably where I need to concentrate.
I’m not using the histogram as I tend to underexpose to preserve highlights so my histogram is very left-leaning. In Lightroom I will then push the shadows and simulate dodge and burn using the mask. 

I am still finding that my images are often flat and grey and lacking. I’m probably going to commit the cardinal sin now by saying my iPhone 13 mini using black and white “noir” mode is close to the output I’m striving for: contrasty, clean and sharp. 

Edited March 19, 2022 by fontilan

[Le Chef]

If you want contrast, then you can easily achieve that in LightRoom by simply adjusting the contrast slider. My suggestion is since all changes in LightRoom are non-destructive, is to play with an image until you like the way it looks. Take a note of the settings and try doing the same thing with another image to see if you like this.

There are certain photographers on this forum, and you will have seen there work, that has such a clear signature that it almost couldn’t be anyone else’s work. If you like the way their images look, PM them and ask how they accomplished it. So much of photography is learning from others and then using that as a starting point for your own ideas of what pleases you.

[Anakronox]

Are you using color filters on your lens?  If not, start there.  Get a set of yellow, orange, and red filters.  Then, setup an import preset in Lightroom that has your tone curve and sliders set the way you want.  I personally prefer super contrasty monochrome, so my preset reflects this.  Then, for all subsequent photos you take, you’ve got a starting base for all of your edits and should have to tweak very little. 

[fontilan]

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Thanks all. Great advice. 

[jaapv]

On 3/19/2022 at 12:46 AM, PhotoCruiser said:

Absolutely!

It's the amount  quality of editing what makes the difference between a awesome and a unrealistic, over edited photo.

Chris

There - I corrected that for you

[jaapv]

If you are not into postprocessing and want to get as much quality as you can out of your Monochrom try Silver Efex Pro

[fontilan]

I’ve always been put off Silver Efex as the edits always seemed too dramatic and unreal. I’ll investigate again though. 

Can it still be acquired for free from Google or is £135 the only option?

[Dennis]

JMHO… The first important step to create an un-flat image, even before (of course) thinking of post-production (PP), is photographing a high contrast scene… In-camera chemistry it’s where the real magic happens. A flat light scene will remain always be flat also after post-processing. Unless one over processes. Which is unnatural and not recommended. I am constantly exposing to highlights, to preserve it, and I love deep shadows.
SOOC DNG file of Q2M.

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[kirkmc]

Use levels. I use Capture One's auto levels tool when I start editing a photo, then adjust from there.

[nicci78]

You have to use colour filter to change tonality.
Orange and Red filter can make dramatic effects. Maybe too much with red one. 

[jaapv]

21 hours ago, fontilan said:

I’ve always been put off Silver Efex as the edits always seemed too dramatic and unreal. I’ll investigate again though. 

Can it still be acquired for free from Google or is £135 the only option?

It has sliders to influence the processing.

[ejg1890]

On 3/18/2022 at 6:28 PM, fontilan said:

I’ve been working with the Monochrom RAW files and I’ve been finding them fairly flat, grey and muted. I like to do as little adjustment as I can get away with using Lightroom and I’m just wondering how you all work with them in order to get the dynamic range right and make the detail pop?

I am joining this conversation a little late.

The Leica Q2M was the first non-Nikon I have purchased and used in more than 12 years. I first purchased a Q2 2 months ago then acquired a Lecia M10-R 10 days ago. Your comments were my initial thoughts as well. The RAW/DNG initially produced are very flat. However, I also realized that was intentional. Even with film many of the negatives are "flat" and when you have them developed by a lab, that lab has a generic process to make those images "pop". With digital the RAW format is the negative equivalent and if you want something "processed" out of camera that's the jpg format. The RAW format is intentionally flat so that it can processed as the user wishes in LR or PS. LR has multiple profiles for Nikon cameras including standard, color, landscape, neutral, portrait, and vivid. Color was the default but you can modify your profile to start the post processing. For the Leica M10-R/Q2 there is only the 1 profile and all else is user defined (or presets). Bottom line is that is design by Leica.

[fontilan]

I never imagined that I’d have to heavily process my images in order to get what I needed though with the Q2M.

I think I have more work to do in-camera  I’ve been recently using the histogram in the EVF rather than relying on my eye and finding that I’ve probably been over-underexposing. I’m pushing the histogram right to fall just short of peaking the whites or with minimal peaking if there’s pure white in my images. This is resulting in brighter/less grey RAW files. I’m still waiting on my orange filter from B+W so when I add that I hope to get more contrast too and see where that takes me. All good fun. 

Edited March 21, 2022 by fontilan

[ejg1890]

31 minutes ago, fontilan said:

I never imagined that I’d have to heavily process my images in order to get what I needed though with the Q2M.

I think I have more work to do in-camera  I’ve been recently using the histogram in the EVF rather than relying on my eye and finding that I’ve probably been over-underexposing. I’m pushing the histogram right to fall just short of peaking the whites or with minimal peaking if there’s pure white in my images. This is resulting in brighter/less grey RAW files. I’m still waiting on my orange filter from B+W so when I add that I hope to get more contrast too and see where that takes me. All good fun. 

If your looking for more of the "finished" product then you may want to select DNG and jpg formats. Many of the settings such as sharpening, tone, contrast and digital zoom are applied to jpg formats only. Those will give you an out of camera finished look. 

I also use the red, orange, yellow and yellow/green filters. They do change the contrast especially the orange and red. The red gives a darker sky than the orange which really make any clouds stand out.

Edited March 21, 2022 by ejg1890

[_Michael]

8 hours ago, fontilan said:

I never imagined that I’d have to heavily process my images in order to get what I needed though with the Q2M.

I think I have more work to do in-camera  I’ve been recently using the histogram in the EVF rather than relying on my eye and finding that I’ve probably been over-underexposing. I’m pushing the histogram right to fall just short of peaking the whites or with minimal peaking if there’s pure white in my images. This is resulting in brighter/less grey RAW files. I’m still waiting on my orange filter from B+W so when I add that I hope to get more contrast too and see where that takes me. All good fun. 

i shoot DNG + JPG.  The JOG setting is default except +1 contrast. I’m often quite happy with the results.  Some images I’ll adjust in post, but it’s typically white point, black point and maybe a slight bit of texture. Rare to do must more, but once in a while I’ll do a little dodge/burn 

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[Stuart Richardson]

If you are really struggling to achieve some snap, even once your black and white points are chosen, you might consider trying a small bump in the dehaze filter in Lightroom. A little goes a long way, but since it increases midtone contrast it can be a great way to add a bit more pop than the other sliders alone. It seems to do so without risking as much of an unnatural effect as the clarity slider. I am definitely guided more by the natural in my processing, but I find it particularly useful for very low contrast images, such as those from scanned color negative film, or from very flat, high dynamic range files. What you are experiencing is the downside of high dynamic range...everything can look flat. I would also consider adjusting your technique to not underexpose quite so much as you have been.

Edited March 22, 2022 by Stuart Richardson

[Bikie John]

13 hours ago, ejg1890 said:

If your looking for more of the "finished" product then you may want to select DNG and jpg formats. Many of the settings such as sharpening, tone, contrast and digital zoom are applied to jpg formats only. Those will give you an out of camera finished look. 

I also use the red, orange, yellow and yellow/green filters. They do change the contrast especially the orange and red. The red gives a darker sky than the orange which really make any clouds stand out.

Good advice. And if you like the look of the out-of-camera JPEGs, you could use them as models to practice editing the raw files to get them to your taste.

John