f8 and be there

[kirkmc]

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I'm sure most people know this expression; it's the idea that if you set your lens to f8, you have a good chance of getting what you want in focus. I don't know much about hyperlocal distance - and I understand that the markings on the Q2 lens are inaccurate - but f8 would be ideal for a 50mm lens. With the Q2, and a 28mm lens, which has more depth of field, what would be the equivalent? In the few months I've had a Q2M, it seems like f4 is about the sweet spot; in fact, the only time I'd want to stop down more is if it's really bright out. (I'm in the UK; there haven't been that many cloudless days since I got the camera....) 

[Dennis]

You wrote it right. F8 and be there, it's not f4 and be over there 

For me f8 is working well for 35-28-21 focal length. I rarely use it on a 50, where my sweet spot if f4 and f2. On a 35mm I put f8 and always decide where to focus. With a 21 (cause the deeper DoF) it's like hyperfocal, pre-focus and P&S. So the 28, it's an hybrid technique, between the 21 and the 35.

But it's me.

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[marchyman]

I find f/5.6 to be an equal "don't care" aperture for the Q.  Have never missed a shot due to inadequate DoF at that setting.  Checking my Q usage I see that about 1/4 of the images taken were at f/4.  Next highest aperture use was f/2.8.  I have a Q, not a Q2.

[prk60091]

21 hours ago, kirkmc said:

I'm sure most people know this expression; it's the idea that if you set your lens to f8, you have a good chance of getting what you want in focus. I don't know much about hyperlocal distance - and I understand that the markings on the Q2 lens are inaccurate - but f8 would be ideal for a 50mm lens. With the Q2, and a 28mm lens, which has more depth of field, what would be the equivalent? In the few months I've had a Q2M, it seems like f4 is about the sweet spot; in fact, the only time I'd want to stop down more is if it's really bright out. (I'm in the UK; there haven't been that many cloudless days since I got the camera....) 

Kirk 

I do not understand your thought process.

On my analog gear I utilize f/8 for focus in cloudy or mixed light  and sunny 16 and the zone system for exposure-- but why on a superior digital camera?

[antigallican]

I think for weegee it was f11 but the thought is the same. We do have the extraordinary advantage of auto settings now… also we’re not limited to 400asa!

[Bazookajoe]

22 hours ago, kirkmc said:

 I don't know much about hyperlocal distance - and I understand that the markings on the Q2 lens are inaccurate 

This really annoys me: folks just repeating what they've heard, by someone who heard it from someone who probably didn't know what they were doing to begin with.

Then, these kinds of statements are taken as 'fact' by others.

It's not hard to find out for yourself. You have a camera. You can test the accuracy of the barrel markings lying down on a couch taking pictures of your feet.

I use zone focusing all the time when shooting on the streets. It works. The barrel markings on my Q2 are accurate -more accurate than any other manual focusing digital camera I've ever owned.

There's probably a two minute youtube video out there that shows you how to zone focus. It's not hard. 

Like all shooting methods, it's great for some things, not so great for others.

[kirkmc]

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Are you saying that I'm wrong about the markings on the Q2 lens? I've seen several threads here explaining it. In any case, I would never use them for focusing; but I do like to use manual focus, and want to have the flexibility of sufficient depth of field if I don't have time to focus precisely.