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I forgot to dismount my yellow filter when changing from M10M to M10R.
Now I am looking to a yellow world and even worse, the wife is very disappointed in my skills… 

Is there a solution in LR (latest version)?

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Select all files and then find a file containing a neutral grey tone.  Press 'W' and sample that tone with the eye-dropper. That should give you a basis for fine-tuning, if needed. It should remove the yellow cast.

If you do not like the results, retrace your steps in the history panel.

My advice is based on my experience with LR 6.4

Edited by wda
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This suggestion comes from my career as a film and video colorist:  In Lightroom, using the histogram for feedback, you can use the Color Grading module to refine and tweak your color balance. 

The first shot below is a crop of a blue sky.  Looking at the right end of the histogram you can see the different proportions of R, G and B present in the upper midtones and highlights.  Try using the Color Grading tools to get those curves as close to each other as possible, thus making it "whiter." 

 

That said, using the W color balance eye dropper to click on something neutral but not over or underexposed (i.e., not clipped) will give you a good head start.

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Edited by erudolph
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18 hours ago, Gobert said:

I forgot to dismount my yellow filter when changing from M10M to M10R.
Now I am looking to a yellow world and even worse, the wife is very disappointed in my skills… 

Is there a solution in LR (latest version)?

Whatever solution you choose, you may get the gray neutral, but there is no way to restore the red/green balance  in LR.  An option might be to shoot a Passport profile with the yellow filter on and apply that.

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4 minutes ago, jaapv said:

Whatever solution you choose, you may get the gray neutral, but there is no way to restore the red/green balance  in LR.  An option might be to shoot a Passport profile with the yellow filter on and apply that.

Or ask the wife to re-shoot her bikini photo’s.

Edited by Gobert
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52 minutes ago, jaapv said:

Whatever solution you choose, you may get the gray neutral, but there is no way to restore the red/green balance  in LR.  An option might be to shoot a Passport profile with the yellow filter on and apply that.

Getting the gray tones neutral removes colour contamination throughout the image. Leaves will not escape the correction.

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One would think so, but from  practical experience:  as soon as you neutralize gray you have red and green wrong. . Try it. It might be possible to correct in LAB, as the problem is caused by RGB linking colour and luminance. 

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4 minutes ago, jaapv said:

From practical experience:  as soon as you neutralize gray you have red and green wrong. . Try it. It might be possible to correct in LAB, as the problem is caused by RGB linking colour and luminance. 

 

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Jaap, correcting WB is global. If greens do not accord with your memory of the colour, you can tweak the hue by sampling a typical leaf, with the eye-dropper, until you get nearer your match.  Of course, shooting a new profile for camera/lens combination,  also helps in the future.

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You are thinking too simplistic. I'll try and find my example  -quite a while back- or try it out yourself. The problem is that in removing the cast the colour of everything beyond blue-yellow gets shifted as well, which is what you mean, but as this is done in RGB, you lose the relative luminosity of red en green. That was also the reason that a simple magenta correction in unfiltered M8 files didn't work (and that Leica couldn't solve the problem in firmware). The blacks and greys were shifted to green and cyan as soon as one removed the magenta cast.

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11 minutes ago, jaapv said:

You are thinking too simplistic. I'll try and find my example  -quite a while back- or try it out yourself. The problem is that in removing the cast the colour of everything beyond blue-yellow gets shifted as well, which is what you mean, but as this is done in RGB, you lose the relative luminosity of red en green. That was also the reason that a simple magenta correction in unfiltered M8 files didn't work (and that Leica couldn't solve the problem in firmware). The blacks and greys were shifted to green and cyan as soon as one removed the magenta cast.

Changing Hue is far from simplistic.

 

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