CosmoM3 Posted November 13, 2021 Share #21 Posted November 13, 2021 Advertisement (gone after registration) Yeah don't overthink too much about loading the film. The baseplate automatically aligns the film into the teeth of the sprocket. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted November 13, 2021 Posted November 13, 2021 Hi CosmoM3, Take a look here Leica M6 Classic. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Capuccino-Muffin Posted November 14, 2021 Share #22 Posted November 14, 2021 On 11/12/2021 at 8:47 PM, Danner said: No. M6 is one of the best models, many say the very best. Except that M3, M2, M4, M4-P, M5, MP, M-A are better. 1 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Susie Posted November 18, 2021 Share #23 Posted November 18, 2021 (edited) On 11/13/2021 at 1:47 AM, Danner said: No. M6 is one of the best models, many say the very best. My black M6 (Classic) is the only Leica I have bought new, in 1986, and is still my favourite and my go-to camera to use on trips. The scuffs and rubbing just remind me of the journeys we've been on together! Edited November 18, 2021 by Susie 7 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobbu2 Posted November 20, 2021 Share #24 Posted November 20, 2021 I always leave the shutter speed dial on 'B' when the camera is not in use; that way inadvertent depression of the shutter button won't enable the meter whether the shutter is cocked or not. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shirubadanieru Posted November 24, 2021 Share #25 Posted November 24, 2021 If the shutter is not cocked then no need to put it in B. The meter only goes on when the shutter is cocked and the shutter button is pressed, so if you always remember to not cock the shutter when you put it in a bag, then no worries about the battery. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nwphil Posted November 26, 2021 Share #26 Posted November 26, 2021 Not sure if I should start as a new topic, but since it's M6 related: - looking to buy a M6 top plate replacement but actually it is for the M6 TTL - mine is the non-ttl or aka classic. Is this not doable at all? mind that it would be a service done at DAG or similar shop Thanks for the help Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JMF Posted November 27, 2021 Share #27 Posted November 27, 2021 Advertisement (gone after registration) 19 hours ago, nwphil said: Not sure if I should start as a new topic, but since it's M6 related: - looking to buy a M6 top plate replacement but actually it is for the M6 TTL - mine is the non-ttl or aka classic. Is this not doable at all? mind that it would be a service done at DAG or similar shop Thanks for the help Phil The M6 TTL top cover is taller than the classic one. it will not fit properly a M6 classic body . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ppkarppi Posted November 27, 2021 Share #28 Posted November 27, 2021 On 11/13/2021 at 3:47 AM, Danner said: No. M6 is one of the best models, many say the very best. It's a personal preference. I think all Leicas are great cameras. However, I _personally_ think that those that were actually hand-made in Wetzlar back in the day are special. I don't think such high quality cameras will ever be manufactured again as every company is trying to optimize (save wherever it is possible) everything nowadays. I don't see that changing. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matlock Posted November 28, 2021 Share #29 Posted November 28, 2021 8 hours ago, ppkarppi said: It's a personal preference. I think all Leicas are great cameras. However, I _personally_ think that those that were actually hand-made in Wetzlar back in the day are special. I don't think such high quality cameras will ever be manufactured again as every company is trying to optimize (save wherever it is possible) everything nowadays. I don't see that changing. A popular misconception. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.noctilux Posted November 28, 2021 Share #30 Posted November 28, 2021 (edited) Concerning where the M is manufactured, in my view, this has little (if any) importance. I appreciate(d) the smoothness of M2/3/4/5, but in many way appreciate the canadian M4-2/P with hot shoe and possible to use winder/motor/Leicavit, and lack of self timer that I rarely ( if never) use(d) for better holding the M. Talking about reliability, the place of manufacture has no incidence in my multiple M since many decades. I think that I'm not alone to use and have many repairs on my Wetzlar made Ms and in lesser extend Ontario made Ms (less needing repairs). 👇 M6 is one of the most reliable ( I have one from 1985 needing to be repaired once, I don't remember when/why 🤥), accepts winder/Leicavit with hot shoe and no self timer = a pleasure to use (less smooth than older, of course). 👇 ...more modern MP/M-A is somewhat better made (for me) and I use many of them never need repair. Edited November 28, 2021 by a.noctilux 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RM8 Posted November 28, 2021 Share #31 Posted November 28, 2021 On 11/24/2021 at 3:20 PM, shirubadanieru said: If the shutter is not cocked then no need to put it in B. The meter only goes on when the shutter is cocked and the shutter button is pressed, so if you always remember to not cock the shutter when you put it in a bag, then no worries about the battery. Sorry but I found this to be untrue, in spite of the manual indeed implying this too. At least for my 1998 classic M6. When left in the bag with shutter uncocked but not in B, any accidental pressure on the shutter release will drain its battery. Don't know why or how (where diese the heat go?) but alas it's a fact... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shirubadanieru Posted November 28, 2021 Share #32 Posted November 28, 2021 5 hours ago, RM8 said: Sorry but I found this to be untrue, in spite of the manual indeed implying this too. At least for my 1998 classic M6. When left in the bag with shutter uncocked but not in B, any accidental pressure on the shutter release will drain its battery. Don't know why or how (where diese the heat go?) but alas it's a fact... That never happened with mine so it might be faulty? As I understand that’s not the expected behavior. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RM8 Posted November 29, 2021 Share #33 Posted November 29, 2021 10 hours ago, shirubadanieru said: That never happened with mine so it might be faulty? As I understand that’s not the expected behavior. It was a first, new, battery after I got the camera. To allow for that being faulty I am now testing for drain with and w/o B in combination with and w/o cocked shutter and with and w/o pressure on the release... Rest of this discreet beauty works like a charm. Using a Voigtländer Ultron 2/35 as first lens. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shirubadanieru Posted November 29, 2021 Share #34 Posted November 29, 2021 3 hours ago, RM8 said: It was a first, new, battery after I got the camera. To allow for that being faulty I am now testing for drain with and w/o B in combination with and w/o cocked shutter and with and w/o pressure on the release... Rest of this discreet beauty works like a charm. Using a Voigtländer Ultron 2/35 as first lens. Nice! Enjoy it! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RM8 Posted December 3, 2021 Share #35 Posted December 3, 2021 On 11/29/2021 at 1:17 PM, shirubadanieru said: Nice! Enjoy it! Am happy to report that having set up my M6 Classic's shutter speed at 60 but uncocked, lens cap on, placed upside down on a table such that the shutter is half pressed (contact verified by once cocking shutter and seeing the LEDs light up, then released), and left for 72 hours: the light meter works perfectly. Note this lab setup is not as farfetched as it may seem-- a M6 tossed sideways in a bag may easily sit there for a long time with its shutter half pressed. My conclusion, leaving the shutter uncocked indeed turns off the light meter; and that first brand-new battery was faulty. Hurrah 😉 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew01 Posted December 4, 2021 Share #36 Posted December 4, 2021 The viewfinder LEDs should not come on at all unless the camera is cocked. I just double checked mine. These LEDs are what drains the battery if there is constant pressure on the shutter button. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RM8 Posted December 4, 2021 Share #37 Posted December 4, 2021 7 hours ago, andrew01 said: The viewfinder LEDs should not come on at all unless the camera is cocked. I just double checked mine. These LEDs are what drains the battery if there is constant pressure on the shutter button. Yep, thanks Andrew, and that's also implied by the manual on p.20 for mine (1998 M6 Classic). I got my M6 recently, near mint, installed a fresh Duracell 1/3N battery, shot a roll of film. Then it spent 3-4 days unused in a camera bag, shutter uncocked but not on B. When loading another roll found out the light meter did not function at all any more. So I thought, either camera or battery at fault, or my understanding of meter power-off. Hence the "lab test" 😎 It was the battery Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kivis Posted September 1 Share #38 Posted September 1 A film camera? What's that? Oh Like my M3. Got it. Enjoy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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