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1 hour ago, Steve Ricoh said:

Next roll I’ll try 1+50, thank you.

I was a bit disappointed with 1+100, stand developing in Rodinal. Clear evidence of bromide drag, I think it’s called, manifest by uneven development from the sprocket holes down to the centre line.

Personally wouldn't use Rodinal as a compensating developer at 1+100 for stand development, or stand development in any form with it. It's just that some people swear it works, so I was answering your question. But if you don't mind sticking two fingers up to 'the God that is Rodinal' I think you can do better. Diluting developer more always gives you more options with controlling contrast, if you need to control contrast. Sometimes I think that the popularity of stand development in Rodinal is simply a workaround for not getting the exposure right in the first place, the 'Sunny 16' brigades crutch.

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I hope we are differentiating stand from semi-stand as we get into the finer points of theology. I have never done proper stand development. Always 30seconds at the start and thirty seconds in the middle, which gives me what one of my patients used to call a 'semi'!

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1 hour ago, 250swb said:

...Sometimes I think that the popularity of stand development in Rodinal is simply a workaround for not getting the exposure right in the first place, the 'Sunny 16' brigades crutch.

Yes, I think that is part of it. I recently found a bulk loaded FILCA cassette in one of my Barnack Leicas that had been in storage for at least two years. I had no idea what film stock it was, much less how it had been exposed. But I knew that with one hour in 1+100 Rodinal at room temperature with half a dozen inversions to begin and just one gentle inversion at 30 minutes I would have easily scannable negatives, and I did. The film turned out to be Silvermax 100 or Scala 160 (same clear base film, I just don't remember what packaging it was.)

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8 minutes ago, chrism said:

I hope we are differentiating stand from semi-stand as we get into the finer points of theology. I have never done proper stand development. Always 30seconds at the start and thirty seconds in the middle, which gives me what one of my patients used to call a 'semi'!

Interesting. I think I'll give that a try the next time the occasion arises.

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For me,  a 'semi' is the the most workable solution as far as stand development is concerned. Without the half way agitation, especially with medium format films, the developer is prone to 'sag' to the bottom and overdevelop the lower half of the film in the tank. 30sec agitation after about 30 min seems to solve that problem.

I only use stand development to seriously push a film. eg. Hp5+ to either 1600 or 3200 iso. Rodinal seems to be better at doing this than Xtol, which is my main 'go to' developer.

The following images were both developed for 3200iso, but the first was processed in my Jobo rotary tank. The latter Stand Developed in a Patterson inversion tank.

Dilution was 1:50 both times.

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Edited by erl
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I have just bought some Tetenal Paranol S to try out as a replacement for my Rodinal when it runs out. Reputedly it is similar to Rodinal. I am yet to find out. Meanwhile, Xtol gives me superior results for box speed or 1 stop pushing.

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I'm a fan of Rodinal with Tri-X 400. It gives very strong grain and excellent blacks. I use very gentle agitation with a 1:50 dilution. Holding the top of the tank with the left hand, I first raise the bottom with the right hand no higher than 80° to the right and make a figure-of-eight motion to the left and back. I do this constantly for the first 30 seconds and then two figure-of-8 swishes very minute, on the minute from there on. Here are a few examples:

 

 

 

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I tried Sfx 200 in 1:50, 10 minutes. Here is the first shot from the roll. 

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Leica m3 and rollei planar 80mm (yellow filter). 

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14 hours ago, Xícara de Café said:

I'm a fan of Rodinal with Tri-X 400. It gives very strong grain and excellent blacks. I use very gentle agitation with a 1:50 dilution. Holding the top of the tank with the left hand, I first raise the bottom with the right hand no higher than 80° to the right and make a figure-of-eight motion to the left and back. I do this constantly for the first 30 seconds and then two figure-of-8 swishes very minute, on the minute from there on. Here are a few examples:

 

 

 

I really love how you use it and the mood you created in your images. These are beautiful. Some of your Sfx photos motivated me to try it out too. I will try to ease off on the agitation. 

Thanks a lot to you and everyone who is contributing for sharing. 

 

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24 minutes ago, Aryel said:

I will try to ease off on the agitation.

That technique was described to me by a Flickr friend Radspix after I complained that my negs were sometimes getting a harsh appearance. That was for PMK and for which many people go crazy with agitation.  See the following at around 25.40 🙂

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=PMK+development&t=newext&atb=v293-1&iax=videos&ia=videos&iai=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DN_ffCsZ-WwE

 

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3 hours ago, Xícara de Café said:

That was for PMK and for which many people go crazy with agitation

Wow, he is really shaking it 😅

Another one that I like from the Sfx 200 roll with the M3 and the rollei 80 planar. 

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1 hour ago, Aryel said:

Wow, he is really shaking it 😅

Another one that I like from the Sfx 200 roll with the M3 and the rollei 80 planar. 

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I'm wondering which scanner that you're using. It's neat and clean. Well done.

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I remember reading that Ralph Gibson would simply tilt the tank and slowly rotate it every 1 1/2 minutes for about 5 seconds. But he was after some edge effect in his negatives. 
 

I think the key word with developing with Rodinal is “gentle”. 

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Walking around looking for rodinal subjects to finish the roll quickly :D

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minolta cle, Rollei 40f2.8, sfx200 in rodinal 1:50

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