Leica 35mm Summicron-M v2 (1970-ish) - is it worth it?

[patashnik]

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I've been offered a version 2 of the Leica 35mm Summicron-M for around $800. No hood and quite a bit of cosmetic marks (or wear, is a better word, perhaps?). Glasses seems to be fine, apart from some minor dust. I've been through my share of Leica lenses, but not many as old as this one. I've tried to read up and the verdict seems to be so-so (for a Leica lens, mind). It has an aperture tab (which I must admit I don't like the idea of, but not sure how it would be in real life). My current lenses are all Summarit's (50 and 75 - which I love), and Voigtlander Noktons (40mm f/1.2 and 35mm f/1.4 MC). All are performing well in my eyes. I'm not lacking in the 35mm department, which is my favourite focal length. 

 

I know that this v2 was only produced for a short period of time, but do any of you have any experience? I expect flare, and the lack of hood is not helping. Then there's the Series VII-filter size. I guess, what I am trying to ask is: Is it worth it? 

 

 

Edited October 4, 2021 by patashnik

[wda]

From what you have stated, I am not sure that you need this lens. If it was in alluring condition, maybe. A good 35 mm Summarit might have been on my wish-list.

[patashnik]

Indeed. The Summarit is my preferred choice. 

[84bravo]

I have this lens and it's a decent performer. I also have a version IV, which is a much better lens in terms of contrast and sharpness. My lens has a tab aperture and takes 39mm filters, not Series VII.

I've not seen any 35mm Summicrons priced at $800 and I'd buy it immediately as a user at that price if the glass has no haze or other problems. A recent quick look at E*ay shows that they're currently asking $2k plus in good shape. Everything Leica has gone up in asking price lately. I'm not sure if they're really selling at these prices though. A year ago you could pick this lens up for less than $1500.

[a.noctilux]

I have one like this one, in Wiki

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...but with lever for aperture

it's a very good lens with flaws (as usual) of it's period to know and master.

This lens has almost my preference over the "IV KOB" which is more fragile.

My copy accepts E39 filters and 12504 hood (even 12585 without vignetting).

[Runkel]

I have this lens as my primary 35mm (M262 and M246).  My secondary is the ZM Biogon 35/2, a technically "better" lens.

I am very happy with the "sharpness", contrast and especially the rendering from this lens.  I had a version IV (Germany) in the past and would not say it was noticeably better than version II.

I used my version II without a shade for some time (the front element is somewhat recessed to begin with) before getting a good deal on a shade.  During this time, the lens did not flare visibly (and showed no noticeable veiling flare), nor did I attempt to make it flare. 

Erwin Puts wrote this about version III:  "This Midland redesign of the six-element version brought some improvement in overall contrast, specifically on axis.  In the field the performance drops significantly and is somewhat below that of the previous six-element design [i.e., version II].  The optical design uses different glass types and the second group has a very small air lens, whereas the first version [i.e., version II] was cemented.  Flare tendency is reduced compared to the previous designs [i.e., versions I and II]."

This price is a steal for a well functioning example with good glass and user cosmetics.

 

[sf_photo]

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7 hours ago, a.noctilux said:

I have one like this one, in Wiki

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...but with lever for aperture

it's a very good lens with flaws (as usual) of it's period to know and master.

This lens has almost my preference over the "IV KOB" which is more fragile.

My copy accepts E39 filters and 12504 hood (even 12585 without vignetting).

Hello, I have some comments / questions @a.noctilux

1) The WiKi page mentions: M+S-black & M-black. Do you know what the M+S refers to?

2) The example shown does not have the f-stop indicator lined up, I have a 90mm like this. MIght such mean prior repair service?

3) My Canada v-II is super. I had a Wetzlar and testing (film) showed no difference. I also had the a later model and could see no difference. All seemed better than the f1.4 Summilux examples I owned.

@patashnik - if tis lens is in Norway and you would purchase in person it would seem a good 'deal'. This is of course no reason to purchase if you really do not need such, your Voigtlander f1.4 speed alone can be a terrific asset.

[a.noctilux]

@sf_photo

Welcome here,

1 - M mount and S = screw mount ?

as side note, some infos in Wiki can be 'adjusted' if it's not exact

2 - the aperture index on my 35mm 'II" lens is not aligned, I think that because of the lever setting

I don't know for your 90mm why it's like that, I never found this in my 90mm lenses

3 - 👍 have fun

[TomB_tx]

Back to the OPs question: I bought a v2 when it first came out, and used it for over 40 years on film without complaint - very nice images and almost no distortion. After I got into digital M bodies I still liked the results, but started trying other lenses which are sharper when pixel-peeping. I like tiny lenses, but the aperture tab (called "Big Tooth" lens in some countries) is hard to use when the Leica clip-on hood is mounted. After 50 years I dropped the lens a few feet to a wood floor (first lens or camera i ever dropped), and it started separation of two glued elements.

Now I also have a Biogon f2 and Summarit f2.5, which are both sharper, and also Nokton 1.4 (v 1 & 2). The Nokton v2 stays on my M9, and the M10 normally uses the Summarit which is almost as small as the v2 Summicron, but handles better.

But yes, at $800 I'd go for it.

[patashnik]

Wonderful advice, thanks. I decided to pass. 

[sf_photo]

On 10/4/2021 at 9:08 AM, patashnik said:

Then there's the Series VII-filter size.

I see you decided to pass. Just wanted to mention that the only Leitz lenses I have seen with series filters have been R lenses.
The hood for the 21f3.4 and one of the two 35mm hoods both accept series 7 filters though.

[a.noctilux]

In the past, Leitz used some Series filter sizes on M and R lenses, with adapters or hood to retain.

M mount

S-A 3.4/21 as mentioned, VII or E48, same for the Elmarit 28mm "I"

Noctilux 1.2/50 VIII

Elmar 3.5/65 , VI

Elmarit 2.8/135, VII

Telyt 4.8/280 , VIII and 6.8/400/560 VII

and so on

 

[sf_photo]

On 10/5/2021 at 1:56 AM, a.noctilux said:

@sf_photo

> 1 - M mount and S = screw mount ?

AFAIK LTM were out of production in the 70's, they might have still made a 35 Summicron for the M3 

2 - the aperture index on my 35mm 'II" lens is not aligned, I think that because of the lever setting
I don't know for your 90mm why it's like that, I never found this in my 90mm lenses

The lever for setting should not have anything to do with it. I have seen hundreds of  M lenses in our shop and this is unusual. Attached is the Tele Elmarit with such.

Thanks for your comments!

 

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[a.noctilux]

Something must be wrong here, maybe adjustable ?

my T-E thin 90mm has the index at right place

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[Guest]

If the price is true you could just sell it at a profit the day after buying it! 

 

[derleicaman]

I have had a v2 for years, but have not used it much since I acquired the 35/1.4 Summilux ASPH v1 when it was introduced. That was back in film days. I would agree that the lever tab for the aperture is not comfortable to use with the hood. I also have my Summilux v2 which I bought new in 1972, and used until I acquired the Summilux ASPH. I recently re-discovered the Summilux v2 with my M10-P. It is wonderful and is two lenses in one. Soft and dreamy wide open, tack-sharp stopped down.

I recently re-purchased a 35/2 v4 KOB from a past customer who purchased it from my store in the late 80's. He was a working pro, and I decided to give his lens a try. I was astounded at how good it is. Nice and sharp wide open, beautiful rendering. I am using it more than the Summilus ASPH these days. The only problem is as with all Canadian versions, the lens turns in the mount too easily. I attribute this to the polycarbonate barrel components. Hopefully, I can swap it for a Wetzlar version with the improved components.