TheGodParticle/Hari Posted March 7, 2021 Share #1 Posted March 7, 2021 Advertisement (gone after registration) Since the tests are more for the community, and not so much for my personal buying decision, what is the acceptable baseline to make this of some use to you? I had one lens on an m10p (APO35) and another (35/2ASPH v1) on the m10 classic. Either due to the lens coating, or the camera rear display, the colors are different. The 35asph v1 renders more pink/red and the APO35 renders towards cyan/green. To level the playing field, would it make more sense to use only one body (m10p) for testing the different lenses, or since temperature/WB is a minor tweak in processing, will it make sense to use both the m10p and the m10 classic? Both bodies are on current FW versions. Thoughts? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted March 7, 2021 Posted March 7, 2021 Hi TheGodParticle/Hari, Take a look here M-APO35/2 vs 35/2ASPH (v1) vs 35/1.4 FLE. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
SiggiGun Posted March 7, 2021 Share #2 Posted March 7, 2021 Same camera body, same light same subject etc. If this is not done, comparaison of the results are not not comparable Enjoy your Apo35. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwesi Posted March 7, 2021 Share #3 Posted March 7, 2021 I agree with SiggiGun Same body please. By the way does the APO lens hood fit the FLE and if so, is there any vignetting or image clipping? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGodParticle/Hari Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share #4 Posted March 7, 2021 1 hour ago, SiggiGun said: Same camera body, same light same subject etc. If this is not done, comparaison of the results are not not comparable Enjoy your Apo35. Ok, will do. In the meanwhile I took some comparison shots (APO35/2 vs 35/2ASPH v1) on different bodies. Will upload them in a few hours. Straight out of the camera, as my processing skills are not what you want to see. Not my APO35 yet, i’m also an official Tester under NDA. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGodParticle/Hari Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share #5 Posted March 7, 2021 15 minutes ago, Kwesi said: I agree with SiggiGun Same body please. By the way does the APO lens hood fit the FLE and if so, is there any vignetting or image clipping? Ok, will do on the same body. As the APO35 is an E39 filter thread and the 35Lux FLE is an E46 thread, I’m afraid the hood won’t be interchangeable. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwesi Posted March 7, 2021 Share #6 Posted March 7, 2021 Got it! I was hoping the outside diameter would be the same. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IMAGEPOWER Posted March 7, 2021 Share #7 Posted March 7, 2021 Advertisement (gone after registration) vor 24 Minuten schrieb TheGodParticle/Hari: Ok, will do on the same body. As the APO35 is an E39 filter thread and the 35Lux FLE is an E46 thread, I’m afraid the hood won’t be interchangeable. That's the INSIDE diameter, for filters! The hoods use the OUTSIDE thread, no matter which filter size is used. That means for example, you can use both a filter on the FLE AND a hood (not screwed on the filter thread) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted March 7, 2021 Share #8 Posted March 7, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, TheGodParticle/Hari said: The 35asph v1 renders more pink/red and the APO35 renders towards cyan/green. The pinkish rendering of the 35 Summicron ASPH is an often mentioned complaint here by Andy (adan), irrespective of body. He’d be happy to know the new version leans cyan/green, aside from cost or other characteristics. That said, I agree that reducing variables (including bodies) will make for better comparisons, albeit with more effort from you. I especially appreciate your tests, given that I currently use the M10 along with the v.1 ASPH and the FLE, wondering how the new lens differs. Color rendering tendency was one of my questions, so thanks already for that. The FLE also can exhibit some ‘nervous’ bokeh at some apertures and distances, so any comparison with regard to this (very subjective) aspect would be interesting if your tests cover that sort of thing. On a practical handling level, I’m also curious about defined aperture clicks (too loose on various new M lens releases) as well as focusing action (smooth or tight). Of course sample variation precludes definitive conclusions, but your sample of one is still informative. Eventually I’ll demo the lens for myself, and make prints, but thanks for the early feedback. Jeff Edited March 7, 2021 by Jeff S 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGodParticle/Hari Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share #9 Posted March 7, 2021 3 minutes ago, IMAGEPOWER said: That's the INSIDE diameter, for filters! The hoods use the OUTSIDE thread, no matter which filter size is used. That means for example, you can use both a filter on the FLE AND a hood (not screwed on the filter thread) This is what I mean ... Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/318668-m-apo352-vs-352asph-v1-vs-3514-fle/?do=findComment&comment=4155604'>More sharing options...
TheGodParticle/Hari Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share #10 Posted March 7, 2021 32 minutes ago, Kwesi said: Got it! I was hoping the outside diameter would be the same. I can put it on the 35FLE but it won’t go low enough to get purchase on the threads Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/318668-m-apo352-vs-352asph-v1-vs-3514-fle/?do=findComment&comment=4155608'>More sharing options...
Kwesi Posted March 7, 2021 Share #11 Posted March 7, 2021 Thanks for demonstrating, I don't believe I've seen an FLE with a red scale before. Very nice! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGodParticle/Hari Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share #12 Posted March 7, 2021 10 minutes ago, Jeff S said: The pinkish rendering of the 35 Summicron ASPH is an often mentioned complaint here by Andy (adan), irrespective of body. He’d be happy to know the new version leans cyan/green, aside from cost or other characteristics. That said, I agree that reducing variables (including bodies) will make for better comparisons, albeit with more effort from you. I especially appreciate your tests, given that I currently use the M10 along with the v.1 ASPH and the FLE, wondering how the new lens differs. Color rendering tendency was one of my questions, so thanks already for that. On a practical handling level, I’m also curious about defined aperture clicks (too loose on various new M lens releases) as well as focusing action (smooth or tight). Of course sample variation precludes definitive conclusions, but your sample of one is still informative. Eventually I’ll demo the lens for myself, and make prints, but thanks for the early feedback. Jeff Will do, will test on the m10p to reduce the amount of variables. Happy to be of help, there’s so much I learnt from these pages and the discussions contained within. My little give back when possible. In this case, Adan will be happy to learn of the cyan/green tint. I find the pink/red/brown becomes a post processing headache for some sunrise/sunset shots, skin tones, red/brown clothes etc. The click from 0.3M to 0.7M is distinct enough, but for individual tastes it could have a stronger indent. If you move the focus ring slowly, the click is clear and distinct. Even if you happen to be in a rush, you will register the click. It’s probably a balance Leica needed to find between too little/too much resistance to ensure the internal mechanism for the click to last for many years. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGodParticle/Hari Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share #13 Posted March 7, 2021 7 minutes ago, Kwesi said: Thanks for demonstrating, I don't believe I've seen an FLE with a red scale before. Very nice! You’re welcome! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted March 7, 2021 Share #14 Posted March 7, 2021 1 minute ago, TheGodParticle/Hari said: Will do, will test on the m10p to reduce the amount of variables. Happy to be of help, there’s so much I learnt from these pages and the discussions contained within. My little give back when possible. In this case, Adan will be happy to learn of the cyan/green tint. I find the pink/red/brown becomes a post processing headache for some sunrise/sunset shots, skin tones, red/brown clothes etc. The click from 0.3M to 0.7M is distinct enough, but for individual tastes it could have a stronger indent. If you move the focus ring slowly, the click is clear and distinct. Even if you happen to be in a rush, you will register the click. It’s probably a balance Leica needed to find between too little/too much resistance to ensure the internal mechanism for the click to last for many years. Thanks, Hari. I added a paragraph on bokeh to my post, in case you have further thoughts. The ‘clicks’ I referred to are aperture clicks, not focusing, although I also care about smoothness of focus turn. Thanks again. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGodParticle/Hari Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share #15 Posted March 7, 2021 29 minutes ago, Jeff S said: Thanks, Hari. I added a paragraph on bokeh to my post, in case you have further thoughts. The ‘clicks’ I referred to are aperture clicks, not focusing, although I also care about smoothness of focus turn. Thanks again. Jeff You’re welcome. The aperture clicks on the APO35 are nice and firm. The mechanism on my APO50 drove me crazy with way too little resistance. I do notice that the older chrom brass lenses have a smoother and possibly less resistant mechanism. The smoothness of the focus mechanism is good, but for my taste, the resistance could be tighter. Not as flimsy as the anodized chrom lenses but not as stiff as some other black lenses. Maybe it’s a matter of getting used to but I did fumble with the rotation of the focus mechanism. It’s generous and helps with precise focusing but having gotten used to the short focus throws of the current lenses, I did get caught off guard when I wanted to focus from 0.3M to something like 2-3 meters. It’s a long way home! I will post some videos of this when I’m back home. Much easier to convey with a video than with so many words. 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGodParticle/Hari Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share #16 Posted March 7, 2021 The following shots are meant to deliberately provoke purple fringing, green fringing, red fringing, ghosting/flares and loss of contrast/saturation by shooting against the sunlight. By overexposure, shooting at a side angle to incite flares and other methods we usually avoid. The best of the best lenses struggle to deal with these conditions, and typically, some of these problems will have to be fixed in post processing. These are not artistic shots, excuse the loose framing and lack of finesse in composition. All shots as downloaded from the camera, no import settings or post processing applied. All shots below wide open at f2 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 6 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/318668-m-apo352-vs-352asph-v1-vs-3514-fle/?do=findComment&comment=4155843'>More sharing options...
TheGodParticle/Hari Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share #17 Posted March 7, 2021 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 3 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/318668-m-apo352-vs-352asph-v1-vs-3514-fle/?do=findComment&comment=4155851'>More sharing options...
TheGodParticle/Hari Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share #18 Posted March 7, 2021 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 3 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/318668-m-apo352-vs-352asph-v1-vs-3514-fle/?do=findComment&comment=4155853'>More sharing options...
TheGodParticle/Hari Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share #19 Posted March 7, 2021 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 3 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/318668-m-apo352-vs-352asph-v1-vs-3514-fle/?do=findComment&comment=4155855'>More sharing options...
TheGodParticle/Hari Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share #20 Posted March 7, 2021 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 1 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/318668-m-apo352-vs-352asph-v1-vs-3514-fle/?do=findComment&comment=4155859'>More sharing options...
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