Leica/Leitz/Minolta CL-Rewind loose

[rking]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Hi, 

 

I purchased a Leitz Cl in excellent condition. However after the first roll of film I almost lost the rewind advance. Very loose. 

I know these are 40+ year old cameras, but wondered if there is an easy fix, rather than sending it in for a Cla?

 

Any advise appreciated, 

Richard

[Advertisement]

The Leica Q3 is available for pre-order at B&H Photo Video and Adorama

[wlaidlaw]

Hi Richard, 

Is the knob at the top of the lever wind loose? To tighten this really you should have the correct size Flexiclamp wrench (Micro-tools.de). However if you are careful and pad the jaws of a water-pump type small pliers (Knipex are ideal  - see below) with something like a piece of chamois leather, you should be able to tighten this enough, without scratching it, for it to work, at least until you need a CLA. It is highly likely that the solder joints on the lightmeter circuit need re-soldering, as these joints are notorious for corroding and deteriorating. I suspect this is from the original soldering using acid flux and then not cleaning it off. Using an acid flux speeds up the soldering process and was commonly used in Japan in the 1960's and 70's. Contaxes were notorious for getting dry solder joints. 

Wilson

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

[rking]

thank you. i tried a wire nose pliers and it worked a bit but i can see how it will work itself loose probably on a regular basis and one day i will look down and it will be gone. 

 

[250swb]

The rewind advance?  Either the film advance lever or the rewind crank, which?

[wlaidlaw]

Steve,

I had assumed he meant the lever wind. There is nothing to come loose or tighten on the rewind crank. 

Wilson

[millardmt]

On 12/8/2020 at 11:41 AM, wlaidlaw said:

Hi Richard, 

Is the knob at the top of the lever wind loose? To tighten this really you should have the correct size Flexiclamp wrench (Micro-tools.de). However if you are careful and pad the jaws of a water-pump type small pliers (Knipex are ideal  - see below) with something like a piece of chamois leather, you should be able to tighten this enough, without scratching it, for it to work, at least until you need a CLA. It is highly likely that the solder joints on the lightmeter circuit need re-soldering, as these joints are notorious for corroding and deteriorating. I suspect this is from the original soldering using acid flux and then not cleaning it off. Using an acid flux speeds up the soldering process and was commonly used in Japan in the 1960's and 70's. Contaxes were notorious for getting dry solder joints. 

Wilson

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

I have never heard this before, and it provokes all kinds of questions.  Rosin-core -- not acid-core! -- should always be used when joining any kind of electrical connection.  I've never used acid-core for anything except plumbing work.  I can't conceive that anyone would deviate from this stricture.

I've had my CL in for service by both Sherry and Don (for CLA's).  Would they have checked these problematic places, do you think?

Thanks, Marc

(PS:. I am something of a Nikon F2 SLR nutter, having collected and used more than a dozen of them.  They have all proven much more reliable than my two Leica M5's and CL.  Ought I to conclude that different Japanese manufactures employ different assembly protocols?  Thanks again, M)

 

 

 

 

 

[250swb]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

6 hours ago, wlaidlaw said:

Steve,

I had assumed he meant the lever wind. There is nothing to come loose or tighten on the rewind crank. 

Wilson

There is on most Leica's. If say from an M4 onwards the small screw comes loose on the rewind crank and the crank can start unwinding from the shaft. The solution to that is to put a screwdriver into the prongs of the rewind shaft to stop it turning and hand tighten the crank on the shaft, then tighten the small screw in the crank body to lock it on the shaft. So if it's the rewind crank it could be a simple solution that doesn't need grips or pliers or other beastly solutions..

[wlaidlaw]

10 hours ago, 250swb said:

There is on most Leica's. If say from an M4 onwards the small screw comes loose on the rewind crank and the crank can start unwinding from the shaft. The solution to that is to put a screwdriver into the prongs of the rewind shaft to stop it turning and hand tighten the crank on the shaft, then tighten the small screw in the crank body to lock it on the shaft. So if it's the rewind crank it could be a simple solution that doesn't need grips or pliers or other beastly solutions..

Steve, 

I was wrong on the CL rewind, it does have a screw in the centre. It is even easier than the M's with the rewind crank on the bottom. You just fold out the crank handle and using a good quality jewellers screwdriver (not a cheap one from Homebase etc), tighten the screw that is on view, holding the fold out handle to prevent rotation. This is so obvious, that I assume the OP meant the lever wind, which has a large cylindrical top with a threaded stem, retaining the lever in place. I have a complete set of Flexiclamp wrenches, so it is easy for me but I recognise that many folks will not have these, which is why I suggested water pump pliers with chamois leather padding the jaws. As long as you are careful with the padding, this will work without damaging the retainer. The threaded stem is quite small so it does not need a lot of force to retighten sufficiently. I would also probably use purple low strength Loctite 222 but again I recognise that most folk would not have this in their toolbox. 

Wilson

Edited December 14, 2020 by wlaidlaw