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53 minutes ago, Johnclare369 said:

3. When you use it, do you switch between focussing with the lens and adjusting the adapter extension, or do you set the extension depending on the distance from the subject, and fine focus using EVF to get it sharp?

It's up-to you. The lens will have a slightly finer focusing thread, so you may find it better for tiny adjustments. A third option is to use a macro focusing rail, which moves the whole camera/lens back and forth on a tripod.

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7 hours ago, Johnclare369 said:

1. The process of extending it: The more it is extended, the closer I can get physically to the subject, right? Also if I need to be further away, I retract the adapter? (Of course we're talking close-up photography so  I will always be close, eg within 1 metre.)

2. Is there a point in using it part-extended, or should I always use it longest (30mm, I believe) or fully rectracted (18mm, I believe)?

3. When you use it, do you switch between focussing with the lens and adjusting the adapter extension, or do you set the extension depending on the distance from the subject, and fine focus using EVF to get it sharp?

4. As you say, it is very difficult to use at f2. What would you say is the widest usable aperture? 2.8 or 4?

 

 

 

Hi JC

I used to do macro photography more seriously a decade ago, but haven't done so in a while, so info here may not be entirely accurate. I think a general guide as to how much magnification one gets when using something like the macro adapter/extension tubes is: focal length/effective extension of the tubes.

For example, a 28mm lens/30mm extension would give close to 1:1 macro ratio. This ratio is similar to dedicated macro lenses (think canon 100mm 2.8, 105mm 2.8 Nikon VR...the Leica 100mm APO-Elmarit R goes to 1:2). The difference is that the working distance is severely reduced. With a 28mm + extension you'd be getting really close to the subject, whilst a dedicated macro lens can shoot about 20cm/8" away (depending on lens). I just use this ratio to select which lens I want to mount to shoot macro.

- So the answer to 1. is yes, whilst there are limits to how far away you can get from the subject with the adapter (which acts like a spacer between lens and sensor, and you can't focus to infinity for sure), the more you extend, the closer you can get and the more magnification you can get. You can also experiment whether a 30mm extension + the lens focus ring turned to MFD (as opposed to infinity) gives more magnification.

- For 2., part extension is just tweaking, like using a zoom lens but for macro. It really depends on what sort of magnification you want.

- Regarding 3., I would set 1 variable to adjust, so either lens or adapter, not both. I use novoflex extension tubes, which are a pain to adjust in terms of extension (you have to unscrew each portion to increase or decrease extension by 10mm), so that "adapter" adjustment is usually fixed for me.

- Regarding 4., this is completely personal preference. To shoot details, f2 is certainly too narrow in terms of depth of field. To capture insects and flowers you would need at least f8 or f11, though all I've done with my novoflex tubes + M camera is shoot wide open or slightly stopped down just for artistic close up shots like frame-it's posts.

It may be worthwhile to search up macro with extension tubes and magnification ratios on google to learn more. I've just been mucking about and don't really care what exact ratio I get - it's just fun to see what the glass I have can do close up.

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