Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

6 hours ago, dave.gt said:

Thank you for sharing these. Years ago, I always used Tri-X (with D76) as my only BW film. I never tried Rodinal (1:50) until last year and I am delighted with it. So, maybe now is the time for a change…hmmm.

You have now inspired me to return to Tri-X and see where I go with it! 👍

My first several rolls were underexpose and over developed. I asked for some advice on another forum and learned quite a bit. When using Rodinal, it's about a one stop reduction from box speed. I had been using a 022 yellow filter but switched to just a UV and still metered at ISO 200. These were ten minutes at 20C with gentle, constant agitation for the first minute with three inversions every minute thereafter. Stop bath fas Foma Indicator for thirty seconds, Ilford Rapid Fix for seven minutes and a modified Iford wash. 

Some say it's the absolute worst combination of film and developer but handled gently, it provides for a good image with pleasant grain. It's a work in progress for me.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Here are a few more. The negatives were scanned using a Sony A7II fitted with a FE90 2.8 Macro. A Negative Supply Pro Carrier 135 held the negatives and a Lightsource Pro 95 CRI provided illumination. After capture the negatives were converted using RAW Power by Gentlemen Coders which can be used as either a stand alone or a plug in for Apple Photos. I add +1.7 EV for the capture with most of the images needing no adjustments or if I do, it's a minor bump in exposure or contrast. 

 

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

The Voigtlander Nokton Classic 35 1.4 SC V2 is a new lens for me. I found one online with the hood and 2 filters for a sub $500 usd price. The first couple of images I took with it were not particularly sharp and thought there might have been damage to the coating on the rear element. Took it to a local shop, the owner cleaned it for me. Problem solved.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Leica M7 + Voigtländer Ultron 28mm VM

Kodak Gold 200 @boxspeed

 

  • Like 13
Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Leica M7 + Voigtländer Ultron 28mm f2.0 VM + Kodak Gold @Boxspeed

Rio de Janeiro

 

Whoever would like to see more pictures of the above mentioned combination and City feel free to have look at the video ;) 

YouTube: https://youtu.be/rUg2_0dKcZQ

 

KeepFilmAlive 😍

  • Like 9
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Advertisement (gone after registration)

When "A walk in the park" is NOT equal to "something easy to do"😔

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

M4/8E 35mm Summicron.  Kodak Double-X in D96.

  • Like 6
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Leica M3 - Summicron 35 v1 - Silbersalz35 250D

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

Film is Kodak 250D and has been ECN-2 processed as it’s a colour negative motion picture film stock and this is it's native chemistry. I get asked this a lot, but yes there is a HUGE difference between this and C41 and I would never, ever, do C41 after experiencing ECN-2. Don't listen to Youtubers.

The film tolerates overexposure well and has a lower contrast and a colour palette which is more muted compared to C41 processing (which is great because I like to edit anyway).

Oh and my instagram if anyone is keen to see more 250D + ECN2 work from me. @maxfairclough (www.instagram.com/maxfairclough)

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 15
Link to post
Share on other sites

Leica M6 35mm Summilux Asph preFLE 

Velvia 100F was a bad choice for street photography but this one looked better as it was than converted to b/w.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, rtai said:

Leica M6 35mm Summilux Asph preFLE 

Velvia 100F was a bad choice for street photography but this one looked better as it was than converted to b/w.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Where is this? Love the blues.

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 3/19/2023 at 11:20 PM, madNbad said:

I decided not only to use Tri-X as my only film but also to develop it in Rodinal

In the 70s and 80s I shot a lot of Tri-X, mainly developed in D76 or ID11 undiluted and adored the way the grain could merge with the texture of the image.

Is the Tri-X you get today the same as the Tri-X of 40 years ago?  I have been using mostly XP2 for the convenience of C41 processing but sometimes wonder about going back to Tri-X.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hedgerows

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Leica M3 and Elmar-C 90 (yellow filter) on Ilford XP2

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

Another from the same day 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, John Robinson said:

In the 70s and 80s I shot a lot of Tri-X, mainly developed in D76 or ID11 undiluted and adored the way the grain could merge with the texture of the image.

Is the Tri-X you get today the same as the Tri-X of 40 years ago?  I have been using mostly XP2 for the convenience of C41 processing but sometimes wonder about going back to Tri-X.

Like many "new and improved" products it is much the same as it was forty years ago but with some changes. In the early 2000's Kodak reengineered Tri-X with less silver, for finer grain and faster developing times. It's much closer to HP5+ and still offers enough grain to retain the film look.From what I understand, it's by far Kodaks best selling B&W film. I used TMax for ages and still like the look but it's been fun learning to use Tri-X again.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Wasted feelings

 

 

 

M6, 50mm Summitar f/2 LTM, Ilford PanF 50, Rodinal 1:25

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

From the first roll I ever put through the m6 I bought second hand, 15 years ago. 

Believe it was a VM Ultron 1.4/35

Still learning to focus…

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Edited by Nimar
  • Like 7
  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

vor 15 Stunden schrieb Nimar:

From the first roll I ever put through the m6 I bought second hand, 15 years ago. 

Believe it was a VM Ultron 1.4/35

Still learning to focus…

The M6 is a tricky beast. If the lens is focussed close there comes a second (?) image in the viewfinder that made you think you have focussed correct, but you are way off. A trap I steped into once or twice a year. I try to train myself to set the lens to infinity after I took a close up picture. Then this wont happen.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   1 member

×
×
  • Create New...