Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)


Pocket Wizard's are the way to go..... In the studio your shooting manual ....or you should be.

Also and I hate to say this on this forum...... the reason there is are no dedicated syncs for Leica is its not a preferred camera for working pros doing studio photography.
 
Not that its not a great camera but only a very very small percentage of folks are shooting with Leica especially in the Studio.
 
When working in the studio......keep it simple
 
 
To the above post ....with the invention of the LCD and digital photography I really don't think a flash meter is an essential tool anymore  ..... just shoot a test shot.
But I guess this depends on your shooting style.
Edited by ECohen
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks-- have a Sekonic 758 and FINALLY a chance to use it...it has been "neglected" for some time....thanks.  I am curious how using my Nocti or 35FLE will 'look' when compared with say my Cannon 5d2 with 85 1.2.  So it will be interesting in due course.  I used to love my old Nikon FE2 with 105mm-- it was great for portraits 'in the old days'....hah

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 
 
To the above post ....with the invention of the LCD and digital photography I really don't think a flash meter is an essential tool anymore  ..... just shoot a test shot.
But I guess this depends on your shooting style.

 

 

Hi,

Yes, you can get away with trial and error. But a flash meter will allow you to check and adjust the output of each head quickly and accurately. 

Edited by Jean-Michel
Link to post
Share on other sites

Now all I need to do if figure out how to use it...hah....hopefully not too complicated.. thanks

 

Keep asking questions ...there is a lot of experience on this forum

Good Luck.....Studios lighting is fun!

and with digital its easier than ever.

Edited by ECohen
Link to post
Share on other sites

Greetings,

One of my sons is working on a website (start-up) and needs static photos of some products and models. I have M240 (Nocti, FLE, 50 Lux) Sekonic 758, Digilux 2, Canon 5d2 (85 1.2, 24-70).  I have no experience with studio lighting and looking for effective 'cheap' solution that hopefully can be collapsed and 'put away' (or my wife will chase me!).  I was planning on using the Nocti on tripod (or not) with EVF if need be.  Any recommendations on suggested ISO, F stops and "kits".  I am in London and expect this 'project' will come up again later so prepared to invest in something that might work effectively.  LED approach (with collapsable Softbox) looks like a small footprint (think packed up) possibility.  Again, I apologize as I have no clue how best to do this.  We tried today and no issue with focus but oh those shadows....hmmmm.  Thanks again and sorry for this 'silly' post.  But since I have 5 'kids'-- need to help to put the Leica 'to work'....hah

 

There looks to be lots of advice already about light cubes for products and basic 2 or 3 light sets with Umbrellas, reflectors, soft-boxes etc... so I won't cover that again. 

 

You asked about metering and F-Stops... For high key (white background) product shots, I normally illuminate and meter the background for F16 and illuminate the subject at F11. If working with a model on a back drop (infinity curve) I'd probably light the curve at F11 with 2 or 3 lights and illuminate the model with softer light (pair of softboxes either side as a minimum) at F8. 

 

In the studio environment I always use ISO 200 (or 100 if available as a standard setting). 

 

The number of lights really depends on the size of your backdrop and what shots you're trying to achieve on the model/product so there is no one-size fits all answer here but maybe some of these settings will be a reasonable starting point. 

 

I trigger the lights from the M240 using a simple radio trigger, or an optical flash trigger. You can also trigger some lights using a flash such as the SF40 in manual mode, with the power turned right down. Many ways to solve this problem, hopefully some of that helps. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Advertisement (gone after registration)

As I am 'nerding' into Elinchrom and having watched their videos on Dlite RX4 kits I was pleasantly surprised to learn that the Sekonic 758DR light meter (which I happen to have) is designed to work with this setup.  Now I have learned that there is no "HS" (high speed) functionality when using Leica with Elinchrom since they only supply the "HS" triggers for Cannon, Nikon, Sony.  Is this important?  In what kind of situations would one use a high speed sync and such flash setup?  Maybe irrelevant, but I did pick up that bit of functionality is NOT possible using the Skyport Plus (universal) trigger.  Thanks

Link to post
Share on other sites

And: we all neglected to say the when working with studio flashes, a flash meter is essential. I use a Minolta unit, same one is now sold  under the Kenko name. Other choices are from Gossen and Sekonic.

Jean-Michel I own one but haven’t used it for a couple of years. At least the Australian fashion photographer and teacher whom I admire most showed me to use and know my cameras histogram and how to set clipping points for print for example. Tethering is the best of all of course

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all,

I spent 90 min with a very helpful Elinchrom salesman. It was very interesting and he was very helpful.  After going through the pros and cons of the DLite 1 vs 2, and 4 we kind of concluded that for 'home use' (not a professional studio) that 1 is probably sufficient power given I won't be at shooting from a distance. I like the fact that each of these heads seem to be equally well designed and robust and can accommodate all the very nice accessories.  Just when I thought the DLite1 'to go kit' with portalite soft boxes would be the way to go, I asked--'can I take a look at the Rotalux...Well that was a mistake, because after seeing how they are made and 'solid' there was no going back to portalite!  I brought along my Sekonic 758DR and 5D2 and M240 to ensure the trigger (Skyport Plus) worked which of course it did.  One aspect I failed to appreciate is that the more powerful 2 and 4 heads cannot be 'powered down' as low as the 1 thereby forcing additional diffusers and limited shooting more wide open.  Now I don't know if this is really important or not, but it kind of got me thinking in a different direction.  Buy the Rotalux softbox and only 1 Dlite 1.  This way I get a much better softbox and could always if need be add another flash.  Pity is that Elincrhom don't make a travel box for just 1 flash.  But I wanted to ask if you think this makes sense-- or get only a single 2 or 4 Flash with Rotalux.  Oh, the problems we create thinking about variations....I am simply trying to get something that will do the job and is flexible if I want to upgrade.  Many thanks, Ed  PS I also learned there is no high speed sync possible with Leica as the Skyport Plus trigger is not "HS" (like the Cannon and Nikon ones are).  Not even sure if this is important but thought I would add (and then you need the 4 flash in order to use this).  My naivety was that I had thought all flashes could be reduced to similar power (hence get the more powerful one in single form) but that proved an incorrect assumption.  My real question is can I create a nice image with just 1 Elinchrom flash of a model and a product?  I gather for group images this would be a challenge.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Do yourself a couple of favours. First, search for Elinchrom video tutorials. You will find it worthwhile to view those. Secondly, rent before buying. In your home studio try your Leica, but also your Canon gear, you may find that one system is preferable to the other.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, I have been 'playing' outdoors with a tripod, reflector and mid-day light on now some black and white boards.  Results improving but I am finding that using 5D2 is much faster and fine for quality of image since no bokeh required.  I don't have a 50 and think the 85 1.2 is tack sharp (much more so than my 24-70 2.8).  When my son brings back my digilux2 I will try that as well.  It has been a good 'project' to learn about light-- isn't that what this is all about anyway...hah!  But I do like the quality of Elinchrom-- I must confess a sucker for quality!

Link to post
Share on other sites

This post started with a simple project you are doing for your Son for the web,
The camera and "fancy" lights don't matter....Canon is fine.
 
Take the easy way use the Canon and zoom
Depending on what your shooting exactly open shade is a fine way to show off a product.
Yes there are other ways many other ways. Maybe try some off camera pocket strobes and umbrellas inside for a more consistent result  those are great for an occasional Studio shoot
 

I think this group gets hung up on the craziness of  the perfect camera and image.

 

Photography for business is different its all about selling the product

No one cares what camera or lights the product was shot with....especially for the web

 

It doesn't sound like you want to take up Studio photography more than a project or two.

If you did the  Leica M is not the best way to go.

 

Take the easy way out don't over think this.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think the topic is of interest to hockey 44 and other people reading.
I don't think that the rest of the group that has posted here is hung up or crazy on the technical side in this chat, nor need the project be harder when using the Leica equipment that hockey44 has.



 

Edited by hoppyman
Link to post
Share on other sites

@hockey44,

I realize that you had already purchased your studio flash block & light modifiers, and you are having fun with studio/controlled lighting photography.

I just want to share with you that there is another controlled light source, and it is continuous lighting.

It is nice to have projects that will help you learning about controlled lighting and help your son :-)!

 

For my experiences, as an amateur, with studio lighting, I use the following equipment:

1. 1 AlienBees B400 flash block

2.  2 PocketWizard Plus III

3.  1 22" beauty dish

4.  2 flash guns that can be triggered optically

5.  1 reflector

6.  2 continous lights

7.  2 silver umbrellas

8.  1 midsize softbox

Dennis

Edited by blueskyoveraquatic
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...