a.noctilux Posted September 7, 2017 Share #41  Posted September 7, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) I'm now looking for a mint M6/0.72 on eBay (there are many), and wish to ask the forum's advice on points to consider before purchase and upon receipt of the body. Please note:  • I live in Japan and am only looking at dealers in Japan with stellar ratings that offer 15-30 day returns  • visible/published serial number of camera for sale; clean and cosmetically near-mint  • Well studied but have not owned a Leica before; undecided about M6 Classic vs TTL  • Leica has an excellent service center in Tokyo – happy to pay for a service check  Thank you in advance for advice and insights — all comments appreciated!   Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  With which lens you plan to use ?  Another route if you don't mind "not-Leica" or "disposable-if-to-be-repaired": Minolta CLE or Konica Hexar RF. I use those two "non-Leica" for decades and they never had problems, not so with my multiple Ms. The CLE lovely 28mm finder is delight using 28mm, not bad with 40mm/50mm. The RF is a "better featured M7" with built-in motor-winder which also motor-rewinds. They are not repairable though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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CRTZMO Posted September 7, 2017 Author Share #42  Posted September 7, 2017 Get the M6 TTL, avoid the classic M6  Much better speed dial that rotates in the right way +2ev light meter sensitivity Better in the hand and for faster lenses Off button prevents battery drain in bag if shutter brushed Better wind on lever Additional centre dot in VF meter, easier to read then M6 Newer model so not as old, less chance of issue Rarer, easier to sell at premium Thank you colonel – appreciate your advice!   Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRTZMO Posted September 7, 2017 Author Share #43 Â Posted September 7, 2017 With which lens you plan to use ? Â Another route if you don't mind "not-Leica" or "disposable-if-to-be-repaired": Minolta CLE or Konica Hexar RF. I use those two "non-Leica" for decades and they never had problems, not so with my multiple Ms. The CLE lovely 28mm finder is delight using 28mm, not bad with 40mm/50mm. The RF is a "better featured M7" with built-in motor-winder which also motor-rewinds. They are not repairable though. I'm a wide-to-normal shooter, will start with either a 28 or 35 and build towards 21 and 50 eventually. Thanks for your perspective! Â Â Â Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRTZMO Posted September 7, 2017 Author Share #44  Posted September 7, 2017 that's the right decision  The M6TTL was a improvement of the M6 - kind of the perfection of the series before AE came in with the M7  The reason that more people favour the M6 is simply because it was available for a much longer period and many more of them were sold and therefore there are many more on the market. There are less M6TTL's on the market and they are more expensive.  If one comes up go for it. If you want to save cash and get something more readily then the M6 classic is a fine camera.  The main reason I use the TTL is really the speed wheel (as well as the extra 2ev sensitivity on the light meter - good for lower light). The wheel on the M6 is too small and stiff, and you end up using the aperture wheel much more. I am more of a aperture priority person, and I found on the M6 I shaved off the skin on my finger a bit  The flare issue is an issue with all M6 and early M7, nothing to do with the M6TTL particularly. The VF can be improved by Leica but they charge. Personally I never found it an issue ... I would say the MP VF is more of a nice to have  Its also taste at the end of the day Noted and thank you, colonel. A lot of great advice to consider!   Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRTZMO Posted September 7, 2017 Author Share #45  Posted September 7, 2017 Framelines: the lever will move the pairs of framelines. It shouldn't stick and the framelines should snap clearly into view. You don't need to put lenses on.  Rewind crank: make sure the axle is straight, turn it rapidly when empty - there should be no wobble or excessive stiffness.  Film advance: Advance the film as normal, release the advance lever back to its resting position. You should now be able to rest your thumb behind the advance lever (as if you want to keep advancing gently) and take a shot with gentle pressure on the advance lever. It shouldn't jam. Instead it should just release the lever to advance to the next frame where you should be able to take the next shot without releasing the advance lever. A properly working camera should handle this test with no problems, but if anything is worn or not adjusted properly then it will jam. It is a good test on the shutter/advance system that will highlight issues just taking photos casually won't.  RF: The cam wheel should spin freely and the RF should follow focus from infinity to 0.7m (attach a lens and check). The patch should be aligned and of course the glass should be clear (some dust is inevitable)  Of course general things like shutter curtains, but the above is what I do for a Leica.  Enjoy. Michael – thanks very much, this is exactly what I'm interested in learning from you guys. All points understood and will definitely perform on inspection!  Cheers!    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRTZMO Posted September 7, 2017 Author Share #46 Â Posted September 7, 2017 The best M7 is the Zeiss Ikon. But its not a Leica and not an M6. I like the fact that the M7 has auto-aperture. For situations where the light varies, the manual readjustment does slow me down or makes me mis-exposure by a few stops. Â I have an M7 0.72x and M6 0.85x. Both were fixed for viewfinder flare by Leica Switzerland for free when my dealer sent them in (M7 just for the viewfinder and the M6 for CLA). I do recommend a CLA unless it had one in the last 5 years. Â For 50 and 90mm lenses - I love my M3. The M6 0.85x (the magnification of the viewfinder - 0.72x is normal) is also great for the 50, 75 and 90 lenses. Â Between the M6 and M6TTL - choose the one you pick up and like the feel in your hands. Thanks Sandokan! May I ask when your CLA was? And how long was the turnaround? Just curious, I'm new to all of this. Â Â Â Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandokan Posted September 7, 2017 Share #47 Â Posted September 7, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) Thanks Sandokan! May I ask when your CLA was? And how long was the turnaround? Just curious, I'm new to all of this. Â Â Â Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk It was back around 2009 and it took about a week plus a week for postal service. But it of course all depends on who, where, when how many staff, backlog ... Â Â Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRTZMO Posted October 2, 2017 Author Share #48  Posted October 2, 2017 Hi all — your advice was very helpful, thank you. I purchased an unused in box M6 TTL.  Ok, now for a lens! :-)   Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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