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focusing mode performance.


leica1215

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I set point focus on my 24-90 , and shooting at the night, the light is not dim considering the shopping mall lights reflects on my subject, but I found 24-90 hunt the focus quite often and take longer than I expected, I didn't realize this before,

 

In this situation will multiple point focus mode better than single point? I just assume multiple points and give sl more spot to get in focused.

 

How you deal with this type of situation? When AF hunt for focus, I rather use manual M lens...

 

 

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Typical night lighting has lots of specular reflections and such, which can confuse focusing algorithms on any camera depending upon the exact scene situation. Switch the SL24-90 to manual focus when this happens. 

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Speaking about the 24-90manual focus, how do you find reference point? I'm mean when use M lens you know where is the turning ends, left to right, but on 24-90seems endless both side, then how do you manage to have quickest focus ? Tips, tricks? Thanks

 

 

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Speaking about the 24-90manual focus, how do you find reference point? I'm mean when use M lens you know where is the turning ends, left to right, but on 24-90seems endless both side, then how do you manage to have quickest focus ? Tips, tricks? Thanks

 

 

I have the camera set to illuminate focus peaking when I turn the manual focus ring. With a little effort and practice ... when I'm NOT going for absolute critical focus, which I do with peaking off and magnification on ... I've learned to judge what the peaking illumination means regarding proper focus point. It's quick and easy to lock in near perfect focus this way. 

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I set point focus on my 24-90 , and shooting at the night, the light is not dim considering the shopping mall lights reflects on my subject, but I found 24-90 hunt the focus quite often and take longer than I expected, I didn't realize this before,

 

In this situation will multiple point focus mode better than single point? I just assume multiple points and give sl more spot to get in focused.

 

How you deal with this type of situation? When AF hunt for focus, I rather use manual M lens...

 

 

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Some of ot will depend on what type of lights are in use. Sometimes the lamps in malls aren't full spectrum so you'll get both focusing issues and horrible colours with AF.

 

I did some work for a major mall operator here and mostly focus was great but in two malls it was bloody awful because of the sodium vapour lamps and lack of natural light. yuch.....

 

Gordon

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I have the camera set to illuminate focus peaking when I turn the manual focus ring. With a little effort and practice ... when I'm NOT going for absolute critical focus, which I do with peaking off and magnification on ... I've learned to judge what the peaking illumination means regarding proper focus point. It's quick and easy to lock in near perfect focus this way. 

 

Thanks, I meant when you turn the MF focus ring do you have any reference point for trick to avoid turning all the way left and then all the way right to find focus? in the M lens we can set roughly by mark on the focus ring, but SL lens doesn't have any mark though

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Thanks, I meant when you turn the MF focus ring do you have any reference point for trick to avoid turning all the way left and then all the way right to find focus? in the M lens we can set roughly by mark on the focus ring, but SL lens doesn't have any mark though

I wonder if you're at all familiar with the gear you're always asking about. It helps to read the manual.

 

The SL lenses aren't going to have a "mark" like an M lens because they're completely different in design and function.

 

The SL has a screen that gives you a DOF scale with the native lenses. Surely you know this. If not you should read the manual and you'd have a lot less questions.

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Thanks, I meant when you turn the MF focus ring do you have any reference point for trick to avoid turning all the way left and then all the way right to find focus? in the M lens we can set roughly by mark on the focus ring, but SL lens doesn't have any mark though

No. You just watch the image in the view finder. If you start turning and it goes more out of focus, turn the other way. You don't go all the way to the end... ??

 

This is not an M.. you can see the focus in the viewfinder.

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I do sometimes like to know where the infinity and closest focusing limits are of the lenses, probably a habit from using M cameras, but also good to know in Macro sometimes. Most AF lenses won't do this of course, not just the Leica SL ones.

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I do sometimes like to know where the infinity and closest focusing limits are of the lenses, probably a habit from using M cameras, but also good to know in Macro sometimes. Most AF lenses won't do this of course, not just the Leica SL ones.

 

 

When I'm doing macro photography, I set up the reproduction ratio I'm aiming for and put the camera onto a focusing rail. I do this most commonly with the SL using the Focusing Bellows-R and either Elmar-R 100mm f/4 or Summicron-R 50mm f/2 lenses. For close-up work, not specifically macro photography, I use a Macro-Elmarit-R 60mm f/2.8 ... no problem finding the infinity and close focus ends of the focusing helicoid with that, although it makes no sense to run the lens out to infinity focus if you're doing close up photography. 

 

Again, just look in the viewfinder when you turn the focusing ring and see if the image is going more into or out of focus. If it's going more out of focus, just reverse direction on the focusing ring and turn until the image is sharp... What is so difficult about that? 

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I have a rather old 60 Macro-Elmarit that when scale focused for infinity is sharp at about 5 meters.  Somehow this doesn't seem to be a problem, as it can just get a bit closer to the flowers...  (and it could easily be fixed).  Also, focusing at macro distances, again usually flowers, I find that once in focus I have to rock back forth to choose the position that gets the rest of the target object most in focus.

 

scott

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I have a rather old 60 Macro-Elmarit that when scale focused for infinity is sharp at about 5 meters.  Somehow this doesn't seem to be a problem, as it can just get a bit closer to the flowers...  (and it could easily be fixed).  Also, focusing at macro distances, again usually flowers, I find that once in focus I have to rock back forth to choose the position that gets the rest of the target object most in focus.

 

scott

That sounds like either your R mount adapter is too long or the lens' focusing helicoid is way off the mark. Mine aligns just about perfectly with infinity @ infinity setting using the two-adapter-stack.

 

Your experience at macro distances is why a focusing rail is such a boon for macro work. :)

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