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There are also lenses - e.g. the  Summilux M 28 - that work better on the SL than on the Ms. (Maybe different now with the M10? )

It would be interesting to see  if these lenses are now improved on the M10 sensor.

And the difference between the older 2.8 and 2.0 28mm and the newer would also be interesting, maybe also for the 2.0 35 (older vs new).

These lenses were "refreshed" for the future sensors, so probably also for the M10 sensor

 

The M 28mm Summilux used with my M10 produces an upper left corner purple cast.  And now that I'm looking, I can see the same using the M 35mm FLE.  Very disappointing.  Anyone else?

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On some images, the upper left corner (perhaps side) shows a color shift when using a M 28mm f1.4 lens on the M10.  

 

Image is of the South Dakota badlands.  Here, the trick is to maintain the color of the redbeds while dealing with the lens/sensor color shift.  A bulk removal turns the reds brown.  I can minimize the effect by de-vignetting and using the Adobe profile instead of the M10 profile, but it never really goes away.  Any suggestions?   I remember using CornerFix a decade ago with the M8, but don't recall fixing one side.  

 

 

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Edited by dempski
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Thanks for the encouragement, but it does show especially on a calibrated monitor, and persists into prints. On blue skies where it appears, it has the same magenta tinge that M8 prints often had. Fortunately, it is not always evident. The lens is terrific, so I don't want to have a reason to minimize its use.

Edited by dempski
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Here's an interim fix technique - direct in PhotoShop. I selected the left-hand "inch" or so, feathered it 100 on your reduced-for-web image (assume feather of about 300 on a full-res image), and then used Photoshop's "Curves" to lower the red channel almost linearly (slightly less in the middle of the curve than the white (right) end), and then restored the total brightness by raising the RGB curve. See screen shot to see the selected area and curves used. It seems to knock down the red/magenta stain without harming the rock red much.

 

Adjust technique as desired.

 

However, you should also submit some problem samples (copies of original .dngs) from your 28 to Leica's Customer Service via email. There's no reason they can't make some fixes to the programmed corrections for the 28 lux in a future firmware version.

 

Back when the M9 came out, it took about 11 months and 3-4 upgrades of the firmware before Leica finally got the corrections for my 21 pre-ASPH "right."

 

But they have to see examples of the problem - from a selection of 28 'Lux files from different samples of the lens - to dial in the corrections needed in the real world.

 

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Much improved!  Many thanks for suggested method and screen shot.  I suspected it would be possible, but was disheartened that the automatic corrections for such a new lens would not be perfect.  I'll send examples to customer support in hope of a universal solution so others don't have to go through repetitive, tedious editing.  

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  • 3 months later...

Hi,

since then, did anyone made a direct comparaison of color cast (rededge) on the m10/m240 ?

 

I have a zeiss 21 4,5 and really love this lens, i'm now questioning myself to buy a second body, and i'm hesistant between an m10 or stay with a second m262 (easyer to make pefect color/dr match ) but if the m10 is playing better with red edge i might go that road...

Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...

Has anyone tried the Super Angulon yet?  I have a f4 and wondering how it fairs

 

I tried the SA 3.4. Without post processing, the magenta tint will be there, no matter what lens profile you choose. My camera has 1.10.4 firmware.

25059640407_8cbc98d96e.jpg

Leica Super-Angulon 1:3.4/21mm by Celso Kuwajima, on Flickr

Edited by ckuwajima
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