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OT: medium format


jackal

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right, about to take the plunge and buy a Hassleblad 500 CM

i think it comes with a 120 A12 magazine and of course a Zeiss 80mm 2.4 planar

 

i guess i need a light meter

 

anything else i should know ?

 

thanks

R

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Yes, the lens is an f/2.8 :) Get the T* version if you can. And get a solid tripod. The most important thing with this camera is to focus correctly. Mine is a bear to focus, but then it is a 500C, not C/M. Get the AccuMatte focusing screen, or something equally good. Oh, and it is Hasselblad (Hazel Leaf), not Hassleblad.

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And make sure to shoot a test roll of the magazine before anything you want to keep. They can often develop light leaks and need new foam seals (about $60 local repair) and/or have spacing issues (not a big deal about another $60). Hasselblads are beautifully made cameras (like Leicas) but are a mechanical object and therefore need occasional maintenance. Used ones are an absolute bargain these days - tempted to pick one up myself after many years of not having one (I do have an SWC though).

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Check that the low shutter speeds don't stick. These cameras are solid and can be repaired and adjusted by most shops. Make sure that the film insert serial number is the same as the magazine serial number - they are supposed to be matched to each other. Sometimes users who have several backs get these mixed up. (Unlikley in this case.)

 

I'm not sure if you are familiar with using a Hasselblad but you should read some operating instructions before hand. It works a little differently than other cameras. There is no instant return mirror on a 500CM. If you have never used this model you should know that you only change lenses when the camera is cocked. (And the shutter in the lens is cocked.) It is possible (but rare) to jam the lens on the camera when installing it, but there is a simple way to fix that. Since you only have one lens this shouldn't be a problem.

 

The back of the camera and the magazines have little red and white indicators in a window that show if the camera has been cocked or the film has been wound since the last exposure. When you change film magazines, they should match or you'll be double exposing or skipping a frame. This is a non-issue if you always advance the camera after each exposure.

 

What you need next is a prism finder, a Polaroid back, an extra film back, a compendium lens hood, a 40mm, a 50mm, a 120mm, a 250mm and a spare body, preferably a motorized one. Oh, and a pistol grip. Then you'll really be set. I used to sell cameras.

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They seem a bit pricy...KEH is selling 500c/m kits with CF lenses for around 950 USD in bargain condition. I am not sure if they are convenient for you if you are in the UK or Europe, but they are a very good outfit. In general, I think Hasselblads are very cheap these days and you should not have to pay more than a 1000 dollars for a basic kit.

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thanks

yes sorry, its a T 2.8 on one of the auctions

 

see here:

eBay.co.uk: Hasselblad 500CM Classic neuwertig (item 110136395723 end time 17-Jun-07 19:00:00 BST)

 

looks in good condition as well

 

good point about the test roll and light leaks though, thaks & noted

 

Richard,

 

This looks really good. Expect the price to go up some, but still, I wouldn't pay over $1500 for a Hasselblad basic system. Forget the "NEW" and just buy one mint.

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Richard, you focus with the hood up onto a ground glass screen. There's a built in magifier to help. Remember everything will be reversed laterally, so what appears on the light in the viewfinder will actually be on the left. Very confusing at first if you try panning <grin>.

 

If you want a metered prism the one made by Kiev for their 88 model will fit - last time I looked on eBay there were lots of sellers selling these prisms at reasonable prices.

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A spot meter offers greater flexibility and analysis of lighting within the scene.

 

Accuracy of metering system depends on what film type you are going to use. B+W and Colour neg are relatively easy with plenty of latitude,but as always, precision helps. You will need this in spades for transparency film where you need to be within 1/3 stop.

 

Also probably need ND grad filters if doing landscape pictures. Waist level finder works really well, keeps weight, bulk and cost down too.

 

Buying MF and most importantly a tripod are things which made biggest improvement to my picture making. Go for it!

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On my Hassi, I have one of these prism finders...

eBay.co.uk: Hasselblad Prismensucher mit Belichtungsmessung (item 110136680499 end time 13-Jun-07 19:00:00 BST)

 

Very useful for focusing, and with a quite reliable "TTL" light meter.

This seller has no battery included, but it should be possible to find one (although, a far as I remember, it´s a mercury type).

Regards

Stefan

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Long ago I had a Rollei SL66 but I've been 35mm / digital for the last 30 years. I just bought a Mamiya RB67 from KEH (EX, which from KEH usually means almost like new) with the 127/3.5KL for under $700 to test the MF waters again.

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