tom0511 Posted October 23, 2016 Share #61 Posted October 23, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) I have replaced my 240 with a 262 and my first impressions are that the images come out too warm and too saturated. I do however feel its not just the display but the files (both jpg and dng in LR). I have to do further evaluation but so far I dont feel the 262 to be as "good" neutral as the one I get with the 240. I also feel (for some reason i dont understand) that exposure metering to be somewhat different. I am even a little afraid that I should have sold my 240 because of these findings (everything else about the 262 I love). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 23, 2016 Posted October 23, 2016 Hi tom0511, Take a look here M (262) colour. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
edwardkaraa Posted October 23, 2016 Share #62 Posted October 23, 2016 I have replaced my 240 with a 262 and my first impressions are that the images come out too warm and too saturated. I do however feel its not just the display but the files (both jpg and dng in LR). I have to do further evaluation but so far I dont feel the 262 to be as "good" neutral as the one I get with the 240. I also feel (for some reason i dont understand) that exposure metering to be somewhat different. I am even a little afraid that I should have sold my 240 because of these findings (everything else about the 262 I love). The two cameras have different white balance, the M262 being slightly warmer and with more magenta. The embedded daylight profile shows 5250k +14 for the 240 and 5050k -3 for the 262. Once you know this it's easy to adjust your settings. The saturation is the same and files will look almost identical once the white balance differences are neutralized. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted October 23, 2016 Share #63 Posted October 23, 2016 The best thing to do is to get a Colorchecker Passport, shoot a (dual illuminant) profile and set that as default for the camera. Sounds complicated, but is quite simple to do. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
elmars Posted October 23, 2016 Share #64 Posted October 23, 2016 I have replaced my 240 with a 262 and my first impressions are that the images come out too warm and too saturated. I do however feel its not just the display but the files (both jpg and dng in LR). I have to do further evaluation but so far I dont feel the 262 to be as "good" neutral as the one I get with the 240. I also feel (for some reason i dont understand) that exposure metering to be somewhat different. I am even a little afraid that I should have sold my 240 because of these findings (everything else about the 262 I love). I had a M9 and when I got the M262, my impression was the same. So I made me a Lightroom preset for the HSL-sliders. Look here: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Perhaps it helps You to be as satisfied as I now am. Elmar P.S. If You send me Your mailadress I can send the file with the LR-preset to You. Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Perhaps it helps You to be as satisfied as I now am. Elmar P.S. If You send me Your mailadress I can send the file with the LR-preset to You. ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/262436-m-262-colour/?do=findComment&comment=3134106'>More sharing options...
tom0511 Posted October 23, 2016 Share #65 Posted October 23, 2016 Vielen Dank für die vielen guten Tips, denen ich nachgehen werde. Gr.Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marchyman Posted October 24, 2016 Share #66 Posted October 24, 2016 The best thing to do is to get a Colorchecker Passport, shoot a (dual illuminant) profile and set that as default for the camera. Sounds complicated, but is quite simple to do. Why the dual illuminant? I have a sunlight profile and have shot some others for specific shoots. The reason I ask is that If I'm not in sunlight the lighting will likely be a mixture of tungsten, florescent, and LED. Which to choose? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exodies Posted October 24, 2016 Share #67 Posted October 24, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) There is no one-size-fitzall. I recently shot my first theatre production and was baffled by the light. People had blue shadows; this is what the scene designer wanted; one can't just normalise this away. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted October 24, 2016 Share #68 Posted October 24, 2016 Why the dual illuminant? I have a sunlight profile and have shot some others for specific shoots. The reason I ask is that If I'm not in sunlight the lighting will likely be a mixture of tungsten, florescent, and LED. Which to choose? It is more universal. You will have to switch between profiles less often. Having said that, I too have profiles for different lighting situations. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Photon42 Posted October 24, 2016 Share #69 Posted October 24, 2016 It is more universal. You will have to switch between profiles less often. Having said that, I too have profiles for different lighting situations. May you please quickly explain the term "dual illuminant" for me? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted October 24, 2016 Share #70 Posted October 24, 2016 http://blog.xritephoto.com/2010/05/x-rite-colorchecker-passport-dual-illuminant-profiles-part-1/ http://www.xritephoto.com/support_doc.aspx?Line=32&SupportID=4987 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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