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Help With Shooting In Manual Mode


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  I just purchased this terrific camera and can't seem to figure out what to do:   I set it to Manual and set my F stop and Shutter speed BUT its too dark to see and focus. I am not sure what to do so I can shoot in Manual. I use Manual Flash as well. It seems like Live View is on. Is there a Live view in this camera?   Thank you

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Do you have an EVF?  That might help.  But if you are using just the back screen, want to make sure you are not in too much light that you can't see it.  Also might have to adjust the brightness setting.  Other than that, play around with the ISO, F stop and shutter speed until you see something for starters.  Hope that helps.....

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  Is there Live View on this camera ?  On my other camera if its on then this same thing happens until you shut off Live View  I want to buy an EVF But Not Leicas

    Is there another one I can use ?  

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  Is there Live View on this camera ?  On my other camera if its on then this same thing happens until you shut off Live View  I want to buy an EVF But Not Leicas

    Is there another one I can use ?  

Unless you are in one of the menus, it should always be in Live View.  You also want, to be full manual, set the focus mode to MF.  And don't think there is an alternative EVF? 

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Based on the  description of the problem, I suspect that the user tries to focus while the lens is actually stopped down and/or that the T does not adjust the brightness of the display to the current environment. Not having access to a T, I can't say whether that is normal behaviour for a T.

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It is possible to use the viewfinder (electronic or optical) extension. other than that I think using iPhone app also disables the live view when it uses the phone screen. I don't think it is possible otherwise, you can adjust the brightness of live view to be really dark

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  Is there any way to NOT use live view? I might just use the A priority and try that with my flash on Manual( My own flash not camera flash)  Thank you

Sounds to me like would be best to take more time to learn the camera in automatic.  If that works, and you understand the menus and such, then try manual.

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When I shoot with analog lenses, I am usually using Auto ISO (set to max of 1600 or sometimes 3200).  This becomes very handy because I can set my shutter speed (to stop action, let's say), and my f/stop (for depth of field control), and the camera adjusts exposure by selecting the right ISO for me.  The LCD (or EVF) remains bright enough for me to focus most times.

 

This may help the OP's situation (if he is also manually selecting the ISO).  My LCD typically becomes darkened when there is not exposure (combo of f/stop, shutter speed and ISO). 

 

In cases where there is very low light, I manually focus with the lens wide open, and then stop it down.

 

You can also adjust the LCD Brightness as an option in the menu.  That might help in some situations, but I have never changed that myself.

 

I hope this is helpful.   Cheers. 

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  I just purchased this terrific camera and can't seem to figure out what to do:   I set it to Manual and set my F stop and Shutter speed BUT its too dark to see and focus. I am not sure what to do so I can shoot in Manual. I use Manual Flash as well. It seems like Live View is on. Is there a Live view in this camera?   Thank you

 

I recognise this situation, however I am using T AF lenses and so when I press the shutter LV goes very dark, but I can see clearly that the AF indicator has locked on what I had prior to that focussed on. I just carry on and take the shot. These are studio shots, using Elinchrom lighting. So I plan the shot the lighting etc. I sometimes take a shot at a F-stop like F4 to check the focus, and then I readjust to F16 which is what most of my images are taken at in the studio. We talk here of product/jewellery photography and not portraits.

 

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/gallery/album/5346-jewellery/  my jewellery gallery shows photos taken this way:

 

Mostly F16, 1/160 at 100 ISO with the T and with the SL at ISO 50.

 

I cannot use the EVF which I have when doing this because the lights are triggered using a trigger on the camera in the hotshot.

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Rollsman, sorry to read your message.

I have mentioned this issue many times before but most seem to not have a problem with it.

 

It was introduced in firmware 1.2 or 1.3.

After that if you use manual mode and manual lenses with flash (even with the internal flash), if you put the settings to where you kill all ambient light, you have a black screen. (LCD and EVF)

It is because the camera is showing "exposure simulation" to give an accurate estimate of what the picture will look like after you take the shot. (Not taking into account the extra flash light you are going to set off to bring the exposure up to being what you want)

 

That is great if you use the ambient light for your shots, but completely inappropriate when using flashes to light your pictures.

Other Leica cameras get around the issue by letting you turn off the "exposure simulation" as a menu option.

When you do that on the Leica SL for example, it gains up the LCD or EVF up so you can see, compose and focus normally. 

 

If if you use a native TL lens on 'Auto Focus' on the T, and use Manual exposure, if the LCD or EVF is black due to the exposure settings being too dark for available light, it gains up the image enough for the auto focus to lock onto something, then it darkens it again to show the "exposure simulation" again. 

 

The fix you would think is pretty simple. For Leica to put this toggle for "exposure simulation" in the menu for the next firmware.

 

I have reported this and other issues to Leica directly for almost 2 years now, and all my 'bugs' have not been addressed. I have now given up.

If enough people report it, Leica have to fix it up.

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This was an advice given to me by a friend who shoots manual and film...

 

Focus, step down, shoot....

Try doing that when photographing people in a studio. 

Last time I used the T in the studio, I guessed the distance from me to the subject, set that on the M lens. Then I also guessed what the framing of the subject might be (being completely blinded by the camera simulating the exposure based off the ambient light), then I took a shot, the wireless flash trigger set off 2 flashes, and a properly exposed image is displayed on the back of the camera, then I would look at that last taken shot, and adjust the camera position based on what I think might improve the composition, then take another pic, and repeat again and again.

 

The whole time you can't see a thing on your expensive camera's screen in live view.

 

As a result the T is not suitable at all for shooting with flashes, unless you are shooting still life with a tripod where you can "Focus, step down, shoot. 

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I recognise this situation, however I am using T AF lenses and so when I press the shutter LV goes very dark, but I can see clearly that the AF indicator has locked on what I had prior to that focussed on. I just carry on and take the shot. These are studio shots, using Elinchrom lighting. So I plan the shot the lighting etc. I sometimes take a shot at a F-stop like F4 to check the focus, and then I readjust to F16 which is what most of my images are taken at in the studio. We talk here of product/jewellery photography and not portraits.

 

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/gallery/album/5346-jewellery/  my jewellery gallery shows photos taken this way:

 

Mostly F16, 1/160 at 100 ISO with the T and with the SL at ISO 50.

 

I cannot use the EVF which I have when doing this because the lights are triggered using a trigger on the camera in the hotshot.

 

This is exactly the behaviour I have seen. The flash trigger is taking up the hotshoe, so you have to use the LCD on the back of the camera. At least with native lenses it does brighten up the screen to lock the focus before blacking out the screen again.

 

I noticed that you said also with the SL. See my post above about the exposure simulation. 

The SL has an option to turn off the 'exposure simulation' so you can see through the EVF or LCD.

Sadly there is no option to turn it off on the T and would have to fixed with a firmware update.

 

See here for another bug regarding the buffer and manual lenses, but also that I met with Leica in Melbourne and showed them this "exposure simulation" issue on the T. 

Still many months later it has not been addressed.

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/247234-outstanding-bugs-manual-focus-issue/?do=findComment&comment=2922763

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The SL has an option to turn off the 'exposure simulation' so you can see through the EVF or LCD.

 

Where is that option found? Thank you for the replies.

 

Is it Setup, Auto Review, Permanent?

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Where is that option found? Thank you for the replies.

 

Is it Setup, Auto Review, Permanent?

 

Just looked it up on the SL.

It is called "Exp. Preview"   On or Off

If you push the top right button next to the LCD, it is on the first page of the menu. (Firmware 2.0)

 

With it turned off, it will not simulate the exposure settings on a half press of the shutter and therefore not black out the display with your exposure settings set to block all ambient light.

however it is very useful to have on when not using flash so what you see is close to what you get.

 

Also note that on the T, it is simulating the exposure all the time, where as on the SL, it only does it when you half press the shutter. 

 

I just wish this option was on the T as well!

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Thank you, I just switched it off and share your view it would be good to have that on the T menu as well.

 

I will try to remember this too: "however it is very useful to have on when not using flash so what you see is close to what you get." - post it in studio - change this setting when exiting studio!

 

Perfect thank you very much haydenc, just tested in studio it works and saves me time, so thanks again!

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Try doing that when photographing people in a studio. 

Last time I used the T in the studio, I guessed the distance from me to the subject, set that on the M lens. Then I also guessed what the framing of the subject might be (being completely blinded by the camera simulating the exposure based off the ambient light), then I took a shot, the wireless flash trigger set off 2 flashes, and a properly exposed image is displayed on the back of the camera, then I would look at that last taken shot, and adjust the camera position based on what I think might improve the composition, then take another pic, and repeat again and again.

 

The whole time you can't see a thing on your expensive camera's screen in live view.

 

As a result the T is not suitable at all for shooting with flashes, unless you are shooting still life with a tripod where you can "Focus, step down, shoot. 

 

 

Hope Leica incorporates the solutions in the next update...

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unless you are shooting still life with a tripod where you can "Focus, step down, shoot. 

 

Fortunately, that is exactly my situation.

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