Changing ISO Dial On MP

[honcho]

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If my MP iso dial were not as tight as it is, and I do not regard it as excessively tight, it would annoy me.

[Abram]

Gosh, I guess I'm glad I have a super early MP so I don't have to deal with such a "problem". I just get a dusty viewfinder as a trade-off

[NB23]

Whats the problem with a single drop of oil? The problem here is plastic on plastic friction.

[Matlock]

Whats the problem with a single drop of oil? The problem here is plastic on plastic friction.

 

Hmm

[MarkP]

I don't think so. I've always thought (and said so here many times) that the MP and M7 ISO dials are made of very poor quality materials that do not match up to the standard of the rest of the camera. That didn't stop me buying each camera more than once. In all other respects, both cameras are excellent.

 

Incidentally, I agree that the depreciation on an M7 is "brutal" but one person's monetary loss is another person's bargain and, at around £1200, a fine condition used M7 is IMO the best value Leica at present.

 

 

I'd actually thought that the ISO dial on my M7 was possibly too easy to reset,not that it has very happened.  So after reading about the MP I'll stop complaining.

 

The cost of used M7's is one of the reasons I bought a very late production model for a remarkably good price about two years ago. However, looking at used prices now I've not lost anything, in fact probably still ahead not that I'm ever planning on selling it.  

 

Furthermore, the shutter speed dial works in the same direction as those on the digital M cameras. This also swayed me away from some of those tempting older M cameras such as the M4 and M4-P.

Edited April 1, 2016 by MarkP

[Joshua Lowe]

Probably would be better to use a silicone based lubricant if you're going to go that route as oil is petroleum based and can dissolve plastics.

[animalhairs]

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Or you can just put the right amount of pressure in the right place on the dial. Works just fine on my MP bodies. This thread is more or less something about nothing.

[MarkP]

This thread is more or less something about nothing.

 

 

A very common occurrence around here  ;-)

 

Check out the thread from a few years ago about the rattling aperture blades on 1.4/35 Summilux ASPHs.

[S.Rolf]

"This thread is more or less something about nothing."

 

  Well, no.

I started this thread asking if others had/have experienced the same thing.

Now I know it isn't my particular copy and fairly common with others.  i.e. Normal.

[animalhairs]

I wouldn't say it's normal, as I haven't had the problem on any of my three MP bodies. Put the pressure from your thumb on the left side of the dial. It will work just fine.

 

If this was an issue, there would have been more chatter on the subject in these threads prior to your post.

 

There's advice in this thread on how to properly use the ISO dial on your MP. Whether you take it or not is ultimately your choice.

Edited April 3, 2016 by animalhairs

[Matlock]

I wouldn't say it's normal, as I haven't had the problem on any of my three MP bodies. Put the pressure from your thumb on the left side of the dial. It will work just fine.

 

 

Yes it does work fine when you adopt that method but why is that not required on the M6TTL and M7? A rather poor design I think, but it works so...

[animalhairs]

On the contrary, it's good design, as it limits the likelihood of the dial changing without intent.

[wattsy]

On the contrary, it's good design, as it limits the likelihood of the dial changing without intent.

 

 

It's hardly good design if so many of us have found it awkward to use (and haven't cottoned on to the correct "method"). The previous version of this dial found on the M6 and early MP bodies is a much better design that simply works. That dial is also made using better quality materials (with a decent fit and finish). Operating issues aside, the current dial is made from very poor quality plastic that would not be out of place on a Christmas cracker gift.

[animalhairs]

It's hardly good design if so many of us have found it awkward to use (and haven't cottoned on to the correct "method"). The previous version of this dial found on the M6 and early MP bodies is a much better design that simply works. That dial is also made using better quality materials (with a decent fit and finish). Operating issues aside, the current dial is made from very poor quality plastic that would not be out of place on a Christmas cracker gift. 

 

What? The materials are fine and the dial works just fine. And I don't think you can quantify the participants in this thread as "so many" compared to the larger MP user population.

[Matlock]

What? The materials are fine and the dial works just fine. And I don't think you can quantify the participants in this thread as "so many" compared to the larger MP user population.

 

Sadly it is a very poor design with less than outstanding materials but we will just have to live with it. Some MPs have the same dial as the M6TTL which is great (I have both). The M7 dial is very different and has a locking pin but in much the same style as the M6. It is unfortunate that a great camera can be let down (a little) by a substandard dial. I suppose the only plus is that you will never inadvertently change the setting.

Some people have said it was the early MPs with the poor dial, some the later. The fact that there are two designs could explain the different opinions in this thread?

Edited April 3, 2016 by Matlock

[animalhairs]

Well, we obviously don't have to agree. I'm happy the "flawed" dial has never bothered me. I quite like it.

[thedirektor]

It's still a really crappy part unbefitting of a camera that costs £3,500 new.

 

I agree. Just picked up my lovely new 3600 pound M7 yesterday and am getting (very kind albeit) advice to use oil, bits of cycle inner tube, rubber gloves.....

Don't ya just love Leica.....

Oooooerrrr....hope I'm not entering into a Forum spat !! Love and Peace everyone. 

Edited January 18, 2018 by thedirektor

[Keith (M)]

I agree. Just picked up my lovely new 3600 pound M7 yesterday and am getting (very kind albeit) advice to use oil, bits of cycle inner tube, rubber gloves.....

Don't ya just love Leica.....

Oooooerrrr....hope I'm not entering into a Forum spat !! Love and Peace everyone. 

 

No need for such strange 'solutions'!  See posts #8 & #20...  

[paulsydaus]

The ISO dial position is used by the cameras light meter only to advise you of correct exposure in the viewfinder. It has no other function on the MP (unlike the M7 which has an A mode).

It also acts as a reminder of what film is loaded. In fact, on the M-A which has no light meter, this is its only purpose.

If you are using an external meter or Sunny 16 etc. and have otherwise memorised or written down what film is loaded, it doesn’t perform any function.

Best to get into the habit of setting it when loading film though, otherwise you may end up with under or over exposed film...

If you want to deliberately push film during development, say by one stop, you would set the dial to double the actual film speed...

 

 

I'm still breaking in my new MP and want to understand the ISO dial on the back.

First, I'm having a hard time in changing/turning it. I don't want to force anything.

I'm assuming that I just place my finger or thumb on the star wheel and turn?

However, it doesn't want to do that very easily.

Do I push and turn?

 

Secondly, what is this changing internally? Being on the back and not on the top seems a bit odd to me.

 

Thanks,

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited April 2, 2018 by paulsydaus

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Hallo,

Look here: Leica M

[gcspeed]

On 3/29/2016 at 8:05 AM, sarav said:

Press slightly with the whole thumb over it and rotate....don't press too much in the centre with your thumb. it rotates with light clicks and fast. It doesn't require any strength.

Thanks! You saved me a lot of grief!