Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted April 2, 2016 Share #301 Posted April 2, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) Neil...you've given me GAS. I've just bought an M7. fantastic mate. Looking forward to seeing your shots Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted April 2, 2016 Posted April 2, 2016 Hi Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS, Take a look here Leica Film Odyssey for a beginner. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted April 3, 2016 Share #302 Posted April 3, 2016 We'll that was a fu@k up. Got to number 38 on the counter so just put the rewind switch to R and started to rewind. It was tight so instead of asking I just gave it a little bit more and I can now turn the rewind handle freely and the counter is still at 38 so I guess I have fu&ked something up so I am heading over to the film processing shop Bang Bang Gang and see if he can save my film .&@&$&@&$&@&$&@&$&@&&$&@&&$&&&&$ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pop Posted April 3, 2016 Share #303 Posted April 3, 2016 The counter willl reset itself when you open the camera. So, this part is quite normal. As to the handle turning freely, there are two reasons I can think of. Either you pulled the film out of the cartridge or you have completed winding back the film. If it turns out to have been the latter, I'd recommend again using a cheap throw-away film to practice the mechanical handling or the camera and film. Let's hope the film was completely exposed and your lab can recover it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted April 3, 2016 Share #304 Posted April 3, 2016 Hi Phil Panic over. They opened my camera in the black box and the film is completely back in the canister. He says I either got 38 fantastic pictures or a roll of blank film. Hopefully it's not the latter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted April 3, 2016 Share #305 Posted April 3, 2016 Next time I come home I'm going to develop my negatives myself and digitized them with my S120mm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted April 3, 2016 Share #306 Posted April 3, 2016 We'll that was a fu@k up. Got to number 38 on the counter so just put the rewind switch to R and started to rewind. It was tight so instead of asking I just gave it a little bit more and I can now turn the rewind handle freely and the counter is still at 38 so I guess I have fu&ked something up so I am heading over to the film processing shop Bang Bang Gang and see if he can save my film .&@&$&@&$&@&$&@&$&@&&$&@&&$&&&&$ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted April 3, 2016 Share #307 Posted April 3, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) Normally I will just carry on shooting until the winding lever blocks, not by the counter. By the time you reach 42, you'll know you have done something wrong when loading. Did you check whether the rewind crank turned when advancing the film after loading and tightening the rewind slightly? Doing so as a routine will prevent this Scottish way of photographing, i.e. 36 shots on the first frame... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted April 3, 2016 Share #308 Posted April 3, 2016 When I initially loaded the film it didn't feel right so I opened up and the film was in he same position so I pulled out a little bit more and tried again and this time the rewind wheel started moving and I am sure it continued to move the next three cocks getting the counter to zero Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpavich Posted April 3, 2016 Share #309 Posted April 3, 2016 Hey...it happens. Just reload that roll and give it another try. Don't forget to make sure that the crank is turning when you advance the film; that way you know it's loaded correctly. Here is a video on how to load: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EoinC Posted April 3, 2016 Share #310 Posted April 3, 2016 Yes, Neil - At least for the first few films, I suggest taking extra care on the loading: Make sure that the film is all the way down. Make sure the the loose end is all the way across the slots in the take-up spool. Make sure that the sprockets are engaged in the holes in the film (place your thumb on the bottom one as you wind on). Wind on and push the shutter release with the back open, to see that all is working. Close the back and wind on, checking that the rewind crank wheel is turning as a result of winding on. Don't worry too much about the frame counter when you get to the end - Trust the resistance to winding on. As Pop notes, the frame counter won't reset until the back is opened. Once you have loaded a few films, you will get used to when the film is properly seated, so you don't need to leave the back open when winding on. Rest assured that, if it happens, you will not be the first person to either fire off 36 shots on the first frame, or to have a whole film flopping around on the take-up spool when opening the back. It's worth persevering though, Neil... a001 by Eoin Christie, on Flickr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
menos I M6 Posted April 4, 2016 Share #311 Posted April 4, 2016 On another note. When you take a film into a shop to get it developed what are they expecting you to ask for. What I mean is obviously they are going to do the developing for you, but I'm going to need more than just a negative to see what pictures are keepers and what pictures I want to get scanned into RAW files. So what do I ask the shop for ????? Don't let the shop scan for you. If it is not a really good shop which is used to do high quality work and which does ALL it's processing and film handling in house (very rare, especially when it comes to 35mm negative film development), don't let them handle the film more than you have to. I go so far to not let them cut my film as it happened a few times too often that the good people either have cut into frames or made a mess out of the cutting sequence for archival sleeves. Of course having someone else unnecessarily handle your film increases the likelihood of scratches, creases and dirt on your negatives. 1) Just let them develop the film and give you the negatives. 2) Buy yourself the most expensive dedicated film scanner you want to afford (read: the cheapest solution you can get away with). 3) Scan the entire film in one batch at a lowish resolution. 4) Edit the scans and select the keepers you want to scan at high quality. 5) Scan the keepers at the best quality you can manage. / Have a professional shop scan them for you. / Have a good shop make proper prints from them for you. Over time you will learn, upgrade pieces of equipment, refine the workflow. Good starters for reasonable first scanners are new (or lightly used) Plustek scanners (fully manual operation, scanning frame by frame) or if you are the adventurous type and aim for higher quality at the risk of ending up with a dead scanner down the road: buy a Minolta 5400 or Nikonscan in the 400 - 800 EUR price range. Scanning is a hassle at first and the learning curve to end up with good quality scans is much steeper then learning to use a film camera but once you have the workflow down, it's bliss. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted April 4, 2016 Share #312 Posted April 4, 2016 I disagree. A good professional laboratory is perfectly capable of doing proper scans. Either a whole film at reasonable resolutions in a specified format or high-quality scans of individual frames at a quality you cannot attain yourself. Like this one: http://www.fotolabkiekie.com/fotolab/ As you see a choice between Fuji Frontier and Imacon Flextight scans. I'm sure there are more of these places, certainly in the area where Neil operates. I agree that supermarket work is not as good as DIY, but I yet have to hear about them spoiling films. For try-out films in a learning process the shop or a fast service should be perfectly adequate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted April 4, 2016 Share #313 Posted April 4, 2016 Well I have just finished my second roll and 100% the film was loaded correctly. It felt so much mor differently than the firs roll so looking forward I will take more time in getting this loading done correctly. On a good note the first roll was taken of stationary things so I will look forward to going back and shoot them on Thursday Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted April 4, 2016 Share #314 Posted April 4, 2016 I agree with Dirk. I gave my b&w and color film to develop into a serious laboratory Leica advice center.Nevertheless still scratches, sometimes less , sometimes more (probably because of the PLC) Since I am developing myself , no scratches. I also scan myselfI print b&w on paper myself with a enlarger Focomat . What good work because it is me who do it, and what fun ! Best Henry Just look your post Neil it's good work and it will come gradually and you'll like it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted April 4, 2016 Share #315 Posted April 4, 2016 Well, I might be biased because I thoroughly dislike scanning, life is too short... I'm just getting back into film beside my digital after a few years pause, but I will only develop and scan my films on my Minolta 5400 if I absolutely have to. As for developing/printing colour film - have been there, done that - never again. The only colour process I enjoyed doing was Cibachrome for the beautiful results.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matlock Posted April 4, 2016 Share #316 Posted April 4, 2016 Whilst I agree that self processing is the way to go, Neil should not "run before he can walk". Get the films processed and get a feel of film. Then go all out with developing, printing (or scanning) when feeling comfortable. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted April 4, 2016 Share #317 Posted April 4, 2016 Whilst I agree that self processing is the way to go, Neil should not "run before he can walk". Get the films processed and get a feel of film. Then go all out with developing, printing (or scanning) when feeling comfortable. Actually I think he might be like me and lack the patience. I'd rather be out shooting and have others do the drudgery for me. YMMV. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matlock Posted April 4, 2016 Share #318 Posted April 4, 2016 Well, I might be biased because I thoroughly dislike scanning, life is too short... I'm just getting back into film beside my digital after a few years pause, but I will only develop and scan my films on my Minolta 5400 if I absolutely have to. As for developing/printing colour film - have been there, done that - never again. The only colour process I enjoyed doing was Cibachrome for the beautiful results.. That takes me back. Cibachrome was my all time favourite process, happy days . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matlock Posted April 4, 2016 Share #319 Posted April 4, 2016 Actually I think he might be like me and lack the patience. I'd rather be out shooting and have others do the drudgery for me. YMMV. You could be right but only Neil can decide that one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted April 4, 2016 Share #320 Posted April 4, 2016 I do agree that it pays to make sure that one gets the best quality possible, either by doing yourself or by selecting a high-level professional service. Ask around where respected professionals go. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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