Jump to content

Leica Film Odyssey for a beginner


Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

Recommended Posts

x
  • Replies 892
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Wind on without taking the camera off your eye. That should fool your wife - and it works a lot faster too. ;) Exposure - normally that is set and forget in fairly constant light. So it is: (check exposure) - focus- twiddle thumb - shoot. It will become one fast fluid movement.

 

On exposure:  You have a  TTL, so from memory: Red dot on = spot on - one arrow half lit - half a stop over/under, one arrow just extinguished - full stop under/over. The original M6 has no red dot, it is just two arrows burning, but for the rest the same.

Note that these cameras are heavily centre-weighed, so you can use them as a bit of a half-way spot meter.

Link to post
Share on other sites

As pop described. The battery should last a year, at least. And use silveroxide- or lithium- batteries instead of cheap alkaline.

Two SR44 (357) or one CR 1/3N from a well known brand should be used, in my opinion.

 

I always change these battery's every 12 months and never had any problems with batteries failing at awkward times.

BrianP

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

Wind on without taking the camera off your eye. That should fool your wife - and it works a lot faster too. ;) Exposure - normally that is set and forget in fairly constant light. So it is: (check exposure) - focus- twiddle thumb - shoot. It will become one fast fluid movement.

 

On exposure: You have a TTL, so from memory: Red dot on = spot on - one arrow half lit - half a stop over/under, one arrow just extinguished - full stop under/over. The original M6 has no red dot, it is just two arrows burning, but for the rest the same.

Note that these cameras are heavily centre-weighed, so you can use them as a bit of a half-way spot meter.

Jaapv since I have been shooting B&W TriX 400 I have been leaning towards red dot and then half lit right arrow in other words 1/2 a stop over.........
Link to post
Share on other sites

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I always wind-on after each shot, it's just an instinctive reaction. No battery loss for me (my main cameras are all battery-free :) ) but I do sometimes find (just when I'm taking a potentially important shot) that the shutter has already been tripped whilst the camera was in my bag. :D

 

Hi Ian,

 

I seem to recall being told not to wind on after each shot due to stress on the shutter (it was back in the 1960s, so it was probably wrong).

 

One of those small but irritating issues for me is that I'm used to the wind level locking the shutter in the closed position (a Nikon feature).  This had a number of benefits for me over the years, not least having no inside lens cap images taken in the bag, and being used to the level being in a stand off position when taking a picture (a nice hook for the thumb).  I was disappointed to find that the M3, and latterly the M-A, did not have this feature.

 

It still feels unnatural to me that I can take a picture with he wind on lever in the closed position.

 

Cheers

John

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm now going out to shoot some color film. What about white balance???

 

Auto-white balance built into the film emulsion.  Clever, eh!

 

 

Errr... Not really. (Take a colour photo in artificial light and you will get a colour cast). Most film you buy will be 'Daylight'. It used to be possible to buy film according to light source, such as 'Tungsten' - good luck with that today!

 

You need to use filters for colour balance when going from natural to artificial light... or you can change colour temp in Lightroom on scanned images I would imagine. (I don't use film anymore, so another film/scan member can tell you more). Although film has its attractions, there are quite a few things you either need to accept or it will end up frustrating you. Especially if you are impatient or a control freak...

 

it was fine in the past - we didn't know any better! :p

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ian,

 

I seem to recall being told not to wind on after each shot due to stress on the shutter (it was back in the 1960s, so it was probably wrong).

 

One of those small but irritating issues for me is that I'm used to the wind level locking the shutter in the closed position (a Nikon feature).  This had a number of benefits for me over the years, not least having no inside lens cap images taken in the bag, and being used to the level being in a stand off position when taking a picture (a nice hook for the thumb).  I was disappointed to find that the M3, and latterly the M-A, did not have this feature.

 

It still feels unnatural to me that I can take a picture with he wind on lever in the closed position.

 

Cheers

John

 

 I had forgotten that... and I used both a Nikon FM and a Nikon F2A... It sounds right - and such an obvious way of dealing with a cocked shutter firing accidentally or draining a battery via the meter...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Errr... Not really. (Take a colour photo in artificial light and you will get a colour cast). Most film you buy will be 'Daylight'. It used to be possible to buy film according to light source, such as 'Tungsten' - good luck with that today!

 

You need to use filters for colour balance when going from natural to artificial light... or you can change colour temp in Lightroom on scanned images I would imagine. (I don't use film anymore, so another film/scan member can tell you more). Although film has its attractions, there are quite a few things you either need to accept or it will end up frustrating you. Especially if you are impatient or a control freak...

 

it was fine in the past - we didn't know any better! :p

 

All very true, but in relation to the question Neil was asking, white balance is in the emulsion.  It's not something you can set for the film.

 

Okay, it isn't "auto" in the sense that it is fixed (roughly equivalent to 5500 kelvin) and as you say any adjustment would be in LightRoom.  But in the context of asking how you set white balance with a film camera, it did seem to call for a flippant response.

 

So, now Neil needs to take colour temperature readings and use a series of colour filters with him to ensure that when he's in artificial light or anything departing significantly from daylight he gets an acceptable colour cast on his film.  You might like to explain that to him in detail  :p

 

Then again, Neil seems to like handheld photographing without too much faffing about; in which case, the daylight balance of the film will be just fine ...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Most colour films are adjusted to daylight/ flashlight. If you use light from (tungsten) light bulbs, you have to use a corrction filter (blue),

to get correct colours and a white white ;-)

For example an 80A or 80B: http://www.tiffen.com/displayproduct.html?tablename=filters&itemnum=105c80a

I don´t know, if there are any special films for artificial light left, anyway.

There are light meters which can measure the color temperature to get a perfect balanced picture and to know which correction one has to make.

Could be also used with digital photography if you mix up different light sources, as you just can set up wihite balance perfectly to one light source.

 

But.... just go out and shoot.  :-)

Link to post
Share on other sites

You've been listening too much to Donald Trump. He was taking about the size of his hands, though, i.e., more subtle than your original statement — though "subtle" and "Trump" don't go well together.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

You've been listening too much to Donald Trump. He was taking about the size of his hands, though, i.e., more subtle than your original statement — though "subtle" and "Trump" don't go well together.

your next president...... I hope[emoji106][emoji106]
Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

I started another thread in the S section then realised that I screwed up and should have just added here.

 

I'm heading back to the rig on Tuesday so no time to get all my shit together to try this, but while I am on the rig I will order the items below to arrive in KL for when I get home after a short 2 week hitch.

I did a little primitive test  rig up using my Leica S and a starbucks coffee mug (The logo on the coffee mug is the same hight as a negative and a little narrower)

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Then I sat my Leica S on a desk Tripod and got as close as I could to the coffee mug where I could still focus.

I then took this picture (Un-cropped) to see how much I could fill the frame.....see below

 

i then cropped the DNG file to the approximate size of a negative and I ended up with a file size of 5732 x 3809 see below

 

I know its privative but it should work...........what do you think??

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...