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Bouncing lens


farnz

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It was the classic scenario: quickly changing a lens on the M8 to minimise sensor dirt and too few hands. Camera facing me, 'new' lens in left hand with thumb pressing release button, while right hand twisting 24/f2.8 ASPH. Grasp on 28mm slips and lens is launched ...

 

I despairingly lunge for it and get fingertips to it but it wriggles away and plummets onto the floor, the - solid - concrete - floor. Gulp.

 

Yep it bounced. But with that lens-on-concrete-floor bounce sound that humans should never have to hear. Heart in mouth and marvelling that there was no broken glass or shards of plastic entrails I picked up the lens gently, as I would a chick that had fallen out of its nest. And I may have inadvertantly uttered some words that I couldn't possible print here for the sake of decency.

 

I'd been doing some infrared shooting so I had an IR-pass filter and adaptor screwed onto the front of the lens and it had landed on the the filter's edge. I removed the filter and gave the lens the once-over expecting to see cracks and scratches and hear unhealthy sounds from inside that would necessitate a visit to the accident and emergency department at Solms, but nothing.

 

I gingerly fixed the 28mm onto the M8 and took some test shots and amazingly there seem to be no ill-effects at all. Focus is still spot on and the aperture and focus rings turn as smoothly as they ever did. But now my IR-pass filter has permanently welded itself to the adaptor but that's no hardship.

 

So if anyone remaks that the new 28mm/f2.8 ASPH is 'plasticky' and won't be as durable as older lenses, send them a link to this thread! :)

 

But I'm still looking for a foolproof, or at least less risky method, for changing lenses on an M without doing the occasional 'bounce test'.

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I've developed a technique over the years; hard to explain, but I'll try. I take the end cap off the lens to go on, and hold it, with the mount end facing "down", with the third and little fingers of my left hand. I use the thumb and index finger of that same hand to remove the lens on the body. the result is that I end up with two lenses in my left hand, "face to face" - the one that has just come off the body is now "above" the one going on, in the same hand.I then rotate my wrist, so that the new lens is offered up to the body mount. A quick twist and it is on. I fish the lens end cap out of my pocket (or wherever I have just put it) and pop it on.

 

Simple. And it works. I couldn't do it with larger diameter SLR lenses (I have tried) but with the small Leica and Voigtlander optics it's fine. The only lens I struggle with is the 50mm Elmar-M, for obvious reasons.

 

Hope this helps - worth practicing over a bed first as you develop your quick-change technique. :D

 

Regards,

 

Bill

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Glad to hear the lens was OK.

 

I forget about dust, it's easy to clean the sensor.

 

I put the front lens cap on the lens I'm taking off the camera then take a spare rear cap out of my bag and hold it in my mount, dry front part of my lips.

Remove the lens from the camera and put the rear cap on and place in my bag.

I then take the lens I'm going to use and put that on the camera.

I once dropped one of my Nikon lenses and although it was one of the less expensive models the feeling I had in my stomach was not good. I'd hate to think what that feeeling would be with a Leica lens. After that Nikon drop I'll never do that again

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But I'm still looking for a foolproof, or at least less risky method, for changing lenses on an M without doing the occasional 'bounce test'.

 

I think it's called a Tri-Elmar :D

 

Sorry to hear of the bounce test - I did the same but was left with 2 lenses and minus the M8 ... I recommend the 'hacky sack' maneuver where you try desparately to get your foot under the falling object before it hits the ground so that at least the impact is reduced. (Note: avoid mis-timing this so that it doesn't become the Beckham punt into the goal maneuver!)

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When changing lenses, I hang the camera around my neck and take one lens minus rear cap in my one hand, and remove the other with the other hand, using one finger to push the release button as the other fingers twist. Then the first hand puts the new lens on. This works well most of the time, but not with the 90 Macro, due to its funky reversed hood. With this one I sometimes have hiccups, and need to think through how I handle it better.

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Really guys unless you are in a dust storm not having a lens on the body for maybe 15-20 seconds isn't going to cause any problems.

 

I really think it is foolish, with any camera & lens setup (especially a Leica), to have 2 lenses out of the bag and in your hands and try to change the lens on the body at the same time.

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But I'm still looking for a foolproof, or at least less risky method, for changing lenses on an M without doing the occasional 'bounce test'.

 

Warning!

This IS a commercial, but it does answers the original posters question. I DO have a vested interest in the product I refer to. I am the designer and seller. My devise, the StreetShooter, follow the link in my signature below if, and only if, you genuinely want a practical solution to the problem of dropped lenses whilst changing them. It was a similar accident that stimulated the invention. In order to maintain the non-commercial aspect of the forum I will say no more than follow the link if you have a genuine interest or need to solve the problem.

 

I repeat, I DO manufacture and sell the product and declare my vested interest, so be advised.

 

Forum members seeking info are very welcome to email me with any questions, free of obligation.

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Thanks to all for your supportive comments.

 

> Bill: it appears that you have superior powers of prestidigitation! I tried to do it the way you described (it sounded helpful!) but, well, couldn't. I have quite large hands but my fingers are not long (not short, just not long) and I couldn't detach the lens with the same hand that I was holding a lens in. This may be because lens detatchment on my M8 is quite stiff and I need more than forefinger and thumb to rotate and detach a lens. (I'm aware that lens stiffness has been discussed in another thread.) Your system sounds very neat and I wish I could adopt it but alas ... Thanks for taking the time to describe it and pehaps others will benefit.

 

> Ed: I totally agree that sensor dust is a lesser concern but I don't pretend to be immune to the occasional irrational thought :rolleyes:

 

> Graham: unfortunately after the lens evaded my fingertips it was too far away to get a foot under it and I'm inclined to think that if I had managed to then I would have inevitably volleyed it into a brick wall with extra speed and momentum. Kick, ouch, crash, tinkle. :(

 

> Erl: I had already purchased one of your Streetshooters but regrettably it is still swimming to London from Oz. When it arrives I hope it'll form the basis for safe® lens changing.

 

 

Farnz's Law: the probability of dropping a lens is disproportionately increased by the hardness of the surface below.

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Really guys unless you are in a dust storm not having a lens on the body for maybe 15-20 seconds isn't going to cause any problems.

 

I really think it is foolish, with any camera & lens setup (especially a Leica), to have 2 lenses out of the bag and in your hands and try to change the lens on the body at the same time.

 

Ed couldn't agree more. I either have an open satchel over my shoulder, a jacket pocket, a bum-bag, anything that will take the lens in transit. Sequence is:

 

- Power off

- remove lens and put on the spare lens cap that you have in your pocket / bag / pouch etc.

- put the lens somewhere safe

- take out the new lens, remove cap and put on body.

 

I dropped a 90 cron once - it literally tipped out of an open bag when I was getting out of a car. It bounced, the built in hood got bent, I straighted it, the lens still works. Trekking in Nepal I got real altititude problems, fell over and smashed the filter on the front of my 135 APO - the lens was in better condition than my knee.

 

Look after them and Leica lenses are for life.

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I bounced a 28 Summicron on a job once (with about a dozen people watching!). Fortunately the glass was fine (reason to always use a UV filter - screw being a purist), but the helicoid was frozen. A $575 repair at Solms. Fortunately I'd only paid about $1300 for it so still came out ahead (sort of) compared to a new. I won't do it again.

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... while right hand twisting 24/f2.8 ASPH. ...

Just noticed that my typing finger was having its little joke. This should read "28/f2.8 ASPH", ie the new tiny Elmarit. It's a lovely lens and is now shown to be built to last! :)

 

Pete.

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