Reviewing Technique for Long Exposures with M-P (240)?

[sml_photo]

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I expect to be using my M-P (240) for long exposure in the next few weeks, so I played around with the setting last night looking through posts in this forum and the instruction book as my guide.

I'm just curious about what others are doing.

 

I found that metering with LV works well down to 1/30th of a second or so.  But, as you get to the longer exposures (in the 1 second and slower range) the image on the screen doesn't portray an accurate prediction of the exposure (as it does at higher shutter speeds). 

I did read in one of the threads in this forum that someone recommended just looking at the data at the bottom of the LV screen (that shows exposure) and using that to determine exposure rather than looking at the image on the screen.  It seems that if you use the image on the screen instead of the exposure display on the bottom, the image will be dramatically overexposed. 

But, I'm not quite sure what to do about long exposures using the viewfinder rather than using LV!  Same/similar situation:  The longer exposures using the camera readings (using the arrows in the viewfinder to guide where to adjust the aperture setting) also yield overexposed images.  Faster shutter speeds, as with LV, yield proper exposures.

To be clear, I have the meter set to Classic.  And I experimented at ISO 500 and ISO 2500.  Using a 50mm Summilux.  Manual setting.

 

Am I missing something?  Or...is there another workaround or setting?

 

Thanks!

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[John Black]

I'm assuming you're using a tripod, and if so, why boost ISO?  My "long" exposures are usually in the 8 to 15 second range, and maybe 30 seconds once in awhile.  Metering can provide a guide.  I'll use metering for the first shot, look at the histogram and decide if more or less exposure time is needed.  As the light levels drop, I add more time as needed.  I shoot ISO 200, expose for highlights and then boost shadows in post as needed.

 

 

It's pretty much the some approach no matter which camera I use.  Lately I've been the Sony A7II more often because its live view is much better (can move around in the frame and check focus through the frame).  Also, I like the tilt screen when work on tripod, especially if shooting at a low angle.

[sml_photo]

Good tip and good photo! 

You're right...I intend to use a tripod.  Though I tested last night inside the house in a dim room...  Does the ISO have an impact on the issue as I described...I'll check that. 

Just wondering...did you ever experience a similar thing as I did last night...the over-exposures when relying solely on the camera's meter?

Thanks!  Appreciated feedback.

[250swb]

I frequently use long exposures in the 30 second region, sometimes longer, and despite reading your post twice I can't work out where the complication is coming from? Try doing something simple, set the camera on Auto Exposure and take a picture, if it is under or over exposed take note of the shutter speed and either use exposure compensation if set on Auto, or use a cable release if set on manual.

 

Additionally if you are using long exposures in daylight you will need to find a way of shading the lens mount to avoid the M mount light leak. Many people use a hair 'scrunchy' device wrapped around the lens to block the light, sometimes you can use your hand but it is not ideal.

 

 

Steve

[Giulio Zanni]

If you do long exposures you'll probably use ND filters. use the conversion table to determine the right exposure. If you want to do exposures longer than one minute take several frames and stuck them in photoshop. The end result will be an exposure for the sum of the single exposures time. 

[osroubek]

In addition to the above, I have recently done some testing and there is considerable light that enters via the viewfinder and the tiny display sensor on the back of the camera. I did some testing with gaffers tape and blocked off these areas at different times and was able to prevent additional light leak as well as what was noted above at the junction of the lens and camera. I had Leica recently replace the sensor on my MP 240 in December 2015 and the same thing happens. I was surprised they were unable to reproduce the problem or didn't want to bother and just replaced the sensor. So in daylight, the entire camera should probably be shielded , front and back.