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M6 vs M7 used prices


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Why the 15xxxxxx serial numbers?

 

There is a belief that the initial production run of the M4-2 was a little half cocked and that the later bodies (made after the production line was fully up to speed and had ironed out earlier problems) are less likely to encounter problems. There is some anecdotal stuff over on Nemeng.com.

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There is a belief that the initial production run of the M4-2 was a little half cocked and that the later bodies (made after the production line was fully up to speed and had ironed out earlier problems) are less likely to encounter problems. There is some anecdotal stuff over on Nemeng.com.

Thanks!

 

I had the M4 and loved it, keep thinking about getting a new one but did find the lack of 75mm frame lines a pain, so thinking about the M4P

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When you shoot a M240 digital, definitely look into a M6 TTL or M7 - don't mix your M240 with a classic M6 (non TTL) or earlier meter-less Leica M if not for nostalgia.

 

The same shutter speed direction just makes it easy on the brain.

 

Also be careful what cameras at what prices you compare.

The "cheap" M7 bodies usually are early bodies (some of which have an identical "early" finder to the M6 TTL) and some of these lower priced offerings are beaters or ticking time bombs that will cost a few hundred USD to fix up on the first occasion something breaks while the all mechanical M6 is as tough as any of the meter-less M bodies before it (check for slow or even "skipping" shutter speeds from 1sec to 1/15sec, check frame preview, check curtains, check film advance, definitely check any user Leica M for light leaks and shutter issues with a test roll on a sunny day).

 

Any good independent repair person who is qualified on Leica M bodies will work on a M6, not everybody will work on M7 bodies once electronics are involved.

 

I find there is usually a ~500 USD price gap between equal condition M6 TTL and M7 bodies.

 

Also watch out for different finders - usually a small premium is paid for 0.58 finders (VERY useful for 28mm and 35mm lenses).

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When you shoot a M240 digital, definitely look into a M6 TTL or M7 - don't mix your M240 with a classic M6 (non TTL) or earlier meter-less Leica M if not for nostalgia.

 

The same shutter speed direction just makes it easy on the brain.

 

Also be careful what cameras at what prices you compare.

 

 

+1

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Thanks!

 

I had the M4 and loved it, keep thinking about getting a new one but did find the lack of 75mm frame lines a pain, so thinking about the M4P

 

The 75 mm is a great FOV (especially with the APO that focuses at 0.7 m -- it pretty much makes a 90 mm redundant, unless you need the extra tele reach). I went for an M4-P because it supports all six focal lengths (although I don't use 135 mm). For me, the M4-P is the "hidden gem" (purely mechanical, cheap, and supports all six FOVs). My M4-P may need the RF recalibrating though !

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I'm tempted by the M6 'classic' and am seeing it sell for $1100 AUD, which as a Brit is bloody cheap, hence the temptation! I'm a M-E shooter and see no issue with the different shutter speed dial. I'm being offer a titanium version... But really started with wanting a black chrome one. But I do like the idea the titanium version (though only plated with TiN) has a brass top plate and not a zinc die cast one. Of course that will affect my pictures ;-)

 

Comments welcome.

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Shiva, personally I find the silver chrome M6 classic is the most beautiful one - also naturally aging more gracefully as it doesn't develop the "greenish" edges upon heavy use over the years but keeps its jewelry beauty as silver chrome bodies do over time.

 

If you are as some around here (myself a heavy addict) into black paint and real brass, probably the most beautiful M6 bodies around are the Millennium bodies (the precursor to the modern Leica MP). These usually sell though for almost double what a similarly conditioned regular M6 will cost.

 

Any mechanically sound M6 will produce great results if pointed in the right direction of course, regardless the finish or tattered look ;-)

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Shiva, personally I find the silver chrome M6 classic is the most beautiful one - also naturally aging more gracefully as it doesn't develop the "greenish" edges upon heavy use over the years but keeps its jewelry beauty as silver chrome bodies do over time.

 

If you are as some around here (myself a heavy addict) into black paint and real brass, probably the most beautiful M6 bodies around are the Millennium bodies (the precursor to the modern Leica MP). These usually sell though for almost double what a similarly conditioned regular M6 will cost.

 

Any mechanically sound M6 will produce great results if pointed in the right direction of course, regardless the finish or tattered look ;-)

Thanks but I keen on spending as little as possible. Also I want a user and not something I'm going to be too precious of. I had a brand new mp once and fell into this category. I was too young really and keen to make the transition to digital so traded it in without loss really for a M8.

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Than a ratty looking worn black chrome 1980's sample that had a checkup within the last two years is the one you are searching for - it will look ratty for a nice low price and will still last you a lifetime without giving you a head scratch about strange light leaks or funny exposure issues to investigate.

I am sure you will be able to find someone who swaps your M8 for a nice film body.

 

You should have kept that MP, but you already have been told so I guess ;-)

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Than a ratty looking worn black chrome 1980's sample that had a checkup within the last two years is the one you are searching for - it will look ratty for a nice low price and will still last you a lifetime without giving you a head scratch about strange light leaks or funny exposure issues to investigate.

I am sure you will be able to find someone who swaps your M8 for a nice film body.

 

You should have kept that MP, but you already have been told so I guess ;-)

Currently looking at a nice M6Ti (classic) for £575. Very happy to have sold my MP as it was a display piece and I wanted digital at the time. I never look back. Spending £600 on a body is ok for me, just, as it's not too much and will still liquidate should I get bored.

 

Very excited about getting back into film.

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  • 1 month later...

It also took me some time to narrow down which Leica M film camera to get. I excluded digital Leica cameras for the steep price tag, and that I already have a mirrorless full frame camera with very good sensor (A7R) which handles most of my photographic needs well. Also, I personally like the B&W film look which I find very hard/impossible to reproduce in digital. I narrowed my search to either M4 or M6 - with preference to M6 bodies since they have a good light meter in the viewfinder which I prefer over an external one. Prices for the M6 TTL were about $500 higher which I found not worthy to spend extra money on since I don't intend to do flash photography with this body. As pointed out above, M4 prices were similar to M6 prices sometimes even higher. M7 prices on the other hand were always about $600-900 higher than M6 bodies. Since I was more interested in a full mechanical Leica camera (plus light meter), I excluded the M7, too. 

 

After searching the used M market for a while, I found a very good deal for a used M6 camera for less than $1150 in black color manufactured in 1995. It arrived in nearly mint condition with case, manual, and warranty card. Works like a charm so far!

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