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CV 15mm help needed


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Hi Cindy,

 

I paint the white wells with L'Oreal French Tip White 130. Go ahead and paint with it...you're worth it. <G> I can't seem to find my black paint bottle now but it was some kind of black enamel nail polish.

 

Cheers,

 

Sean

 

Sean, French Tip White is SO last season...

 

;-)

Tim

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Hi Cindy,

 

This is how i did mine. Just filled the spot and the edges with a black marker. Works fine.

 

Good luck again,

 

Hans

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Cindy,

 

Are you mounting the lens tightly enough to hear a "click" at the end? Does the frame lever move all the way towards the lens - do you get the 28/90 frames?

 

Most likely your coding isn't working because the frame lever isn't in the exact correct position. I've found that you really have to make sure that you've "clicked" all the way when mounting the lens/LTM adapter.

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I have it working now.:p

 

I took off the adapter and went over it and got all the little bits off. Sean has written earlier in this post his method of painting. I evidently had some polish bits that were causing a light leak at the coding sensor. (However, I had tried just using a black marker before I got my nail polish and it still had not worked.)

 

 

Thanks again for all your help.

IT WORKS!!!!!!

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<snip>One thing that is a bit strange, and maybe the production specs for the CV 15 has changed (I have a brand new one - May production) - but the lens does not align with the build-in lens shade perfectly horizontal, it's about 5 degrees off. I have not heard anyone else commenting about this.<snip> Cheers, -Peter

 

FYI: My CV 15 does the same thing. It's off about 5 degrees when mounted on the camera. Photos seem OK. Performance seems OK. To be clear, in my case it's not just the lens shade that's 5 degrees off. It's the whole lens twisted a bit on the front of the camera.

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FYI: My CV 15 does the same thing. It's off about 5 degrees when mounted on the camera. Photos seem OK. Performance seems OK. To be clear, in my case it's not just the lens shade that's 5 degrees off. It's the whole lens twisted a bit on the front of the camera.

 

Will,

 

Check the bottom of page one of this thread. There's your answer in my earlier post :)

 

Hans

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I can't seem to find my black paint bottle now but it was some kind of black enamel nail polish.

 

Cheers,

 

Sean

 

OK, in case anyone is curious, the black paint I use is "Wet n Wild" Wild Shine Creme Noir 424A". It's a gloss black, no surprise, and works just fine. I suspect that a wide variety of black and white enamel paints/nail polishes will work but I list these in case any one is shopping for adapter paint. I just repainted an adapter with a new code so that nail polish remover does work fine even when the paint has set for a few weeks.

 

Cheers,

 

Sean

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OK, in case anyone is curious, the black paint I use is "Wet n Wild" Wild Shine Creme Noir 424A"...

 

I think the names for your nail polishes would add some punch to your reviews.

 

I can see it now: "... the wet and wild CV 15/f1.4 (newliy released and with a street price of $375.57), with the JM adapter in black chrome with the bronze pin stripes, handles well. resists moisture in the woods, and produces deeply saturated images that reveal the inner sense of both oak and maple leaves in the rural sections of this remote part of Vermont.? The L'Oreal sheen of the aspen trunks and leaf edges is to die for."

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Will,

 

Check the bottom of page one of this thread. There's your answer in my earlier post :)

 

Hans

 

Hans, you said that there was a couple of screws on the screwmount of the lens. Do you mean an English couple (2) or a German couple (3-6)? I have four at 90 degree spacings. Are we really meant to move these???

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I think the names for your nail polishes would add some punch to your reviews.

 

I can see it now: "... the wet and wild CV 15/f1.4 (newliy released and with a street price of $375.57), with the JM adapter in black chrome with the bronze pin stripes, handles well. resists moisture in the woods, and produces deeply saturated images that reveal the inner sense of both oak and maple leaves in the rural sections of this remote part of Vermont.? The L'Oreal sheen of the aspen trunks and leaf edges is to die for."

 

LOL, that was good. I'll think on it.

 

Cheers,

 

Sean

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My daughter was able to offer pink, purple or glitter. I'm not sure what kind of lens corrections one of those would have triggered.

 

Cheers,

 

Sean

 

Well, with the IR-cut filter, the purple will appear black to the lens-code sensor, so that's ok.

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... It can be fixed very easily. On the screwmount of the lens you'll find a couple of screws. When you take them out you'll notice there is another set of holes for the screws underneath the metal ring. Just use those to screw the mount back on and it's aligned again...

Thanks, Hans, much obliged.

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Pete, did you do this? Do you have to unscrew all 4 screws and then find another 4 screw holes under the mount?

Carsten,

 

Yes I have and, as Hans said, there's not much that can go wrong. There are 4 screws in total.

 

There are 4 tiny cross-head screws that need to be removed so that you can remove the round metal plate with the L39 screw thread. Beneath the metal plate the screws screw into the plastic body and Voigtlander has thoughtfully provided 3 holes for each screw so that the position of the metal plate can be adjusted.

 

The screws on my lens were screwed into the middle holes and to adjust the metal plate so that the lens is correctly aligned on the M8 I had to position the holes in the metal plate (as near as I could) over the right-hand holes in the plastic body. I then placed the screws in the holes in the metal plate and screwed them home.

 

A tip: leave the screws as loose as you can until you have all 4 screwed part way in, which will allow you to make minor adjustments to the position of the metal plate. If you tighten the screws as you put them in you may find that you can't get the last screw into its hole.

 

A second tip: when all the screws are in position and your ready to tighten them make sure to tighten opposite screws so that the torque on the metal plate is evenly distributed. What I mean is that if the first screw you tighten is positioned at twelve o'clock then the next screw you tighten should be the one at six o'clock.

 

It's a bit fiddly because the screws are tiny, they have minds of their own and they just want to hide in the carpet pile. Good luck. :)

 

Pete.

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