tomlianza Posted July 24, 2015 Share #1 Posted July 24, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi, Just got my M240 (I have an M9 and Fuji Xpro-1) . The focus peaking doesn't seem too obvious. On the Fuji camera it is excellent. The system magnifies OK when I hit the front button, but the "peaking" just doesn't seem to obvious. I have read the manual, but I really have a hard time detecting the focus peaking. On the Xpro-1 it is very obvious and works well. I am just wondering if I am doing something wrong, or if the peaking is just very subtle. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted July 24, 2015 Posted July 24, 2015 Hi tomlianza, Take a look here New to M240, focus peaking does not seem too apparent. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Jeff S Posted July 24, 2015 Share #2 Posted July 24, 2015 http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/201505-do-not-see-focus-peaking-on-new-m/ Includes links to related threads….others, too, by search. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewDD Posted July 24, 2015 Share #3 Posted July 24, 2015 I've found it to be completely useless - can't see it at all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bocaburger Posted July 24, 2015 Share #4 Posted July 24, 2015 I never used the Fuji but I have a Sony Nex6 and the focus peaking on it is much more obvious than my M240's is. The reason, as I discovered, is that the Sony's peaking is not nearly as selective in terms of DOF, so a lot more areas light up. Which makes it (Sony's) less accurate (with longer, faster M lenses) than the M240's peaking even though the latter is more difficult to perceive. All that said, I have peaking turned off on both cameras and focus optically, which I have found to be quicker and more consistently accurate for me than peaking. And I rarely resort to EVF on the M240. The only reason I paid that much is because of the rangefinder/viewfinder. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Z. Goriup Posted July 24, 2015 Share #5 Posted July 24, 2015 You do not indicate whether you are merely looking at the LCD screen or whether you are composing and focusing with the EVF. The peaking doesn't show up very brilliantly in the LCD, especially when the lighting is less than optimal for viewing. I too had difficulty at first seeing the peaking, because I suspect like many who upgraded to the M240 I had it set to red peaking……….then I switched to the green - actually chartreuse peaking color - and it helped considerably. As the final step to making focus peaking a useful, "go-to" feature, I took the advice of more experienced hands and wound up purchasing the much maligned EVF, and can now honestly state that my M-P package with green peaking and EVF has become a very helpful feature - when needed. JZG Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thighslapper Posted July 24, 2015 Share #6 Posted July 24, 2015 You should only need it for fast 50mm+ lenses wide open ...... in which case it is quite bright and reasonably obvious ....... otherwise using the RF is quicker and easily accurate enough. Leica have configured it with this in mind ..... it provides great accuracy where you really need it with a narrow field of activation ...... and was never intended for wide angle lenses or normal lenses stopped down. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithlaban.co.uk Posted July 24, 2015 Share #7 Posted July 24, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) The following is a reply I posted to a previous thread. I find the M240 implementation of focus peaking to be superb on all but wide angle lenses. I've recently been using a Nikkor 55mm AIS macro for copy work and a 90mm Summarit for portraits and in both cases the focus peaking delivered outstanding results. Wouldn't be without it! I'll add that I always use peaking in conjunction with the EVF. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ayewing Posted July 24, 2015 Share #8 Posted July 24, 2015 Focus peaking on the Leica M 240 is very subtle but can be more accurate than the more obvious peaking in other makes of camera. It is also dependent on contrast. Lenses with higher contrast give the best results and subjects with sharply dmarcated lines provide more peaking than an amorphous area with no contrasting objects to focus on. It is also worth experimenting to see which of the available colours gives the best results. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomlianza Posted July 24, 2015 Author Share #9 Posted July 24, 2015 Hi guys, Thanks for the replies. I would only use the EVF or the LCD for non-coupled lenses. I have been shooting with Leica for 40 years so I don't have a problem with range finder. I wanted to do some experiments with the Nikon 100 f2 DC. I also wanted to do some testing with my 70mm Summilux at f 1.4. I sold my fuji XT-1 system because I couldn't rely on the auto focus and the EVF was really dim when outside in bright sunlight. I am spending a lot of time just using the M40 and getting used to the controls and menus. I will probably own this one for life, like my M6 and M2... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
algrove Posted July 24, 2015 Share #10 Posted July 24, 2015 Hi guys, Thanks for the replies. I would only use the EVF or the LCD for non-coupled lenses. I have been shooting with Leica for 40 years so I don't have a problem with range finder. I wanted to do some experiments with the Nikon 100 f2 DC. I also wanted to do some testing with my 70mm Summilux at f 1.4. I sold my fuji XT-1 system because I couldn't rely on the auto focus and the EVF was really dim when outside in bright sunlight. I am spending a lot of time just using the M40 and getting used to the controls and menus. I will probably own this one for life, like my M6 and M2... The problem is you are using a non-existent lens IMHO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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