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I want to use spot metering to concert photography, where i'm only carrying a single camera with a 35 mm lens, where it's limited how close i can get to the action on the scene/stage.

 

I want to use incident metering in certain situations where i know the internal meter in my Leica will not do a proper job.

 

Here's an idea, for reflective readings instead of carrying around a spot meter for concert photography just take with you a longer focal length lens and narrow the field of metering with that (of course it will also mean you have two lenses rather than a spot meter and one lens). Is that too much common sense?

 

But with only a 35mm lens you are pretty limited how far away you can get from the stage anyway before the performers and what is happening becomes meaninglessly small, and I'd have thought 35mm lens would mean getting right up close, not at 'spot meter' distances.

 

And for when your internal camera meter is likely to be fooled use a grey card, or the palm of your hand to meter from, no need for an incident meter.

 

A separate meter is useful for any photographer, but I'd forget the spot meter and just recommend a Sekonic 308 or similar. One last idea, if you really want to do concert photography with a spot meter, a cheaper option may be to buy an Olympus OM4 and a 35mm lens (longer ones are available). The OM4 can read and average up to 8 spot readings and you don't even need to take the camera from your eye. But having been a theatre photographer a spot meter is one of the last pieces of kit I'd ever want to use while things are going on around me.

 

 

Steve

Edited by 250swb
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The 308 has a fairly narrow measurement angle when in reflective mode. I bought one recently off Amazon in the black friday sales, was to good a bargain to pass up. Fits in all my shirt pockets and weighs hardly anything. For some time I have been metering off my hand when outdoors and a bit stumped by readings, just to get a base measurement. I must have fairly light skin as the 308 seems to give me the same readings either incident or reflective off an open hand.

 

Steve you did this stuff back in the day would you suggest in those situations to get a solid base measurement and pretty much stick to it? It occurred to me a few years back that in tricky indoor lighting the worst thing is to try and chase exposure as it can vary so much over time and the scene/setting.

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all of the above is excellent advice. i would just add two things. one, i always carry a small card with me to use when light is a bit confusing. also, the kit i have also has a white card which comes in handy with my m9 when i want to set the wb manually. cards are about the size of a credit card, easy to carry around.

 

second, you can still find on line from kodak their list of suggested exposures for given situations, very helpful for stage work, concerts,etc,also, there is an app for the iphone (maybe android too, don't know) called Expositor. Excellent automated version of the kodak pdf. slide scale for iso, shutter, f stop, for a given light situation. i have found it very useful for night shots and concerts and the like.

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I want to use spot metering to concert photography, where i'm only carrying a single camera with a 35 mm lens, where it's limited how close i can get to the action on the scene/stage.

Thanks for the reply Bjarni.

 

In which case I'd still say either of the Pentax meters.

 

My own favourite was actually the analogue version as I could quicker see where 'under-' and 'over-' exposure was likely to occur but YMMV.

After having obtained readings from both highlights (avoiding specular which would ultimately give a false ratio) and deep shadow you are pretty much on your way and once you start there should be little need for constant re-appraisal of the stage lighting.

Adjustments for individual passages (lighting-wise) should be a straightforward matter.

 

Philip.

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Here's an idea, for reflective readings instead of carrying around a spot meter for concert photography just take with you a longer focal length lens and narrow the field of metering with that (of course it will also mean you have two lenses rather than a spot meter and one lens). Is that too much common sense?

 

Steve

 

I only use one camera and one lens because it is all i need for 90% of my shooting.

 

When i say concert photography i don't mean close up photos of performers. In my opinion a good concert photography means including a part of all the stage and ligth setup as well.

 

I appreciate carrying so little equipment as i could (which is one the main reasons for switching from Canon to Leica, besides image quality), so this is in my bag:

 

  • Leica M6 or MP body with a Summicron-M 35 mm f/2 ASPH
     
  • Two rolls of film
     
  • Cloth for cleaning lens

I could stretch it to carry an external meter in my bag, but no more than that. I don't want to carry an extra camera for spot metering.

 

For incident metering the grey card sounds interresting. Is a 4 x 5" Kodak Grey Card big enough to do a decent reading, or does it have to be the big one measuring 8 x 10"?

 

All you others: Thanks for replies and advices. I will take a closer look at what you are suggesting.

Edited by BjarniM
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This might look quite farfetched, but wonder if you have considered an R camera.

Besides the integral metering mode, they have (R6.2 e.g.) a selective metering mode,

which corresponds to the focusing circle in the center of the screen. It will not cost that much more than a new spot meter. Of course, you have to add the lenses/lens.

And though you mention you don't use teles for your concert photography, these cameras

allow for much longer tele lenses to be used in case you want to.

Well, it's easy for me to spend your money!

Rgds

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This might look quite farfetched, but wonder if you have considered an R camera.

Besides the integral metering mode, they have (R6.2 e.g.) a selective metering mode,

which corresponds to the focusing circle in the center of the screen.

Rgds

 

Thanks for your suggestion. I like the Leica rangefinder system so much that i do not consider this to be an option for me.

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As bocaburger said : Sekonic L408 is fine, if a little bit large.

Sekonic L-408 MultiMaster Light Meter Reviews - PhotographyREVIEW.com

 

I use also, if 1° is required, a Minolta Spotmeter F with light in the finder (for example concert or night time, etc.), but not on main display !

 

Arnaud

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What about the Voigtlander VC Speed Meter II?

 

thanks

 

Nic

 

THIS...

 

I've been using one for years without issue. Simple, effective AND small.

 

If you don't like it on the camera you can hang it around your neck on a string.

I really don't know why you'd need anything more complicate and I wish Leica would make a new meter similar to the Voigtlander VC for the M-A.

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Try photograhing the light then you won't need a meter! The light in a concert for example is always the same, in the street you have white, gray and black colors lit by sun, shade or haze. Haze is always the same as is sun and shade but I suppose one could complicate things with a meter?

 

L-358 cheap durable does all you need.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Then there is the Pocket Light Meter app for iPhone with the Luxi incident light meter adapter. Lighten the load.

 

I see Luxi has its own light meter app, but I haven't tried it.

 

Fred

 

I'm using LxMeter app for Android OS. With its add-on sensor you get a powerful and cost effective light meter / flash meter.

 

Armin

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Well, in effect, you have described Sekonic L-758D in your post.

 

However, keep in mind that L-758D is perhaps too large for street photography. I use Sekonic Studio Deluxe III L-398A in the streets. Why? Because it is quite handy, requires no battery and has proven very reliable as an incident light meter. I use it with an SWC and I've never found a bad exposure.

 

I believe incident light metering is ideal for street shots: you take one reading per street only. Although, with MF film photography, you may need to compensate plus/minus half a stop for critical shots.

 

Paul

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